1932 Cadillac V16 scale model

[Roger Zimmermann]

Now the water pump could begin to work as I added the three water "tubes" which are indeed solid. Even if those tube are looking easy to do, they were not: the flange must be aligned to  the block and the pump; the radius must be tight (I did them by cutting slices into the material and silver soldered the tube) and the length must correspond. The long tube at the LH side should be parallel to the block at both axis; unfortunately, when looking at the picture, you will notice that it's not exactly parallel to the block but, from above or under, it's perfect. When the exhaust and intake manifolds will be installed, this flaw will be unnoticed.
To do the tubes, I removed the pump's cover. I will now do the shaft with the joints between the generator and pump.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Sometimes the initial idea is good and then the realization not so. I wanted to do the flexible joints between the generator and the water pump. In fact, it's simple: two discs with "fingers" and a bit rubber in between. It would be easy to do them at a 1:8 scale, but at 1:12, the end result is so, so. The Dow Corning rubber (An ivory and a black thick liquid are mixes together; my product is about 40 years old!) is nice to do tires but for very small elements like that flexible joint, a reinforced rubber would be more appropriate, but I cannot machine that kind of material. Plus the fact that the "fingers" from the discs are not spaced exactly the same.
The whole assembly (the shaft between both joints is still to be done) must be under slight pressure, otherwise the joints will not stay together!
Anyway, something is not bad: I added the "gland" for the lubrication of the water pump shaft; it's not bad looking. The gland, the joints and the shaft will be chromed. A lot of chromed parts were used on this engine.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Finally, those flexible joints are not too bad. I cleaned a bit more the flashes from the silicone rubber; once installed, the joints are decently looking. They even do their job as you can see at the water pump: the pump is not exactly aligned with the generator and looking at the joint, the upper "rubber" is thinner than at the bottom. If necessary, I can rotate the shaft but, as I had to make some compression at the joints, there is a lot of friction. Nevertheless, this is a static model and, when the carb will be installed, there will be no possibility to play with the shaft.
To accelerate the process with the silicone rubber, I heated it with the mold at about 100°C or more. The excess product took about two days to polymerize at room temperature!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The pictured parts will be the transmission. The "thing" at left is the main case and the other one at right should be the junction between the case and the flywheel case. Some hammer blows are still needed as well as some more work. Like all elements, the beginning is sometimes rather crude.
No, the engine is not ready but I wanted to do something else.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The last few days saw some improvements at the parts from the transmission. Elements were added at the main body; some more will come next. At first, I intended to adjust the main body to the flywheel cover; finally, I inserted the body into the cover. With this move, it will be easier to control distances and alignment. Both elements are not yet soldered; I will first add details on the RH side of the main body.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The last details were added on the main body of the transmission. On the LH side: drain and refill plugs. On the RH side: 3 attaching points and the vertical surface for the locking yoke pin plate. On the V-12 and V-16, both front attaching points are used to attach the ratchet for the hand brake lever; on the V-8 cars, the two rear attaching points are used for the ratchet.
Now, I "just" have to attach the case to the flywheel cover...

[Roger Zimmermann]

The main case was silver soldered to the flywheel cover. This operation was critical as the transmission must be in a good alignment with the engine.
Now, I'm two steps away to have the transmission's case ready: the provision for the clutch lever on the LH side and the one for the starter motor on the RH side must be added. As I neglected to measure in detail both elements, I will have to rely on the many pictures I have to do something decent.

[Cadman-iac]

Hi Roger,
I guess the tricky part is loading all the gears and the counter shaft into the case. Ha ha!! Ya gotta get that alignment right so the shaft doesn't bind.
All joking aside,  that's beautiful work. I'm know that we all will love to see it when done.

Rick

[carguyblack]

It may look perfect but will it shift smoothly??
Great work as always, Roger.
Chuck

[Roger Zimmermann]

Rick & Chuck: no problem about the gears: they are flexible and totally silent as they are just in the imagination of the viewer's mind! I'm glad I don't try to reproduce the gears with their synchronization system: it was really complex.

[Roger Zimmermann]

If the provision for the clutch lever went not too bad (I have much more time to design and "place" it on the transmission than to do the part), it's another story for the installation of the starter motor. Finally, I began with the motor, working towards the transmission. As I had the length and diameter of the motor, I have the impression that it will be easier to adapt the assembly to the transmission than doing the contrary.
Just to show you why it's difficult, I'm adding two pictures from the original assembly. You will notice that all elements after the starter motor are at odd angles and not in line with the motor because there was  a reduction gear. No picture about what I did because a starter motor is just a cylinder, nothing spectacular.

[Roger Zimmermann]

So much time for so little! In fact, I spent 3 afternoons to install the front seat into my '72 coupe, scale 1:1. Even if it was only 5°C, I did not felt the cold temperature because those seats are not easy to handle, especially alone!
In between, I could do the tortuous parts between the starter motor and the transmission. I began the parts attached to the starter motor, going forwards. At one time, I had to begin the adapter which is part of the transmission's case, hoping that no major flaw would appear when all is assembled. I'm making no illusion: the assembly is looking similar to the real one, but not exactly identical.
Some details must be added like the flange for the operating lever. As most of the readers don't know how that starter motor is operated, a short description may be useful: when the driver want to start the engine, he is pushing a pedal located at the right of the gas pedal. With some levers and rods, this action has two consequences: first the pinion is pushed forwards to the flywheel and second, the lever is pushing a contact on a switch installed on the top of the starter motor, connecting the battery to the motor. With some chance, the engine will start. As I never experienced myself such a starting procedure, owners for car dating from this time will correct me if I'm wrong.

[dadscad]

Amazing detail, Roger. It's interesting that the starter is almost as large as the transmission.  But they were in their infancy at the time. I remember back in the 1950's, the pickup truck and larger haulers had the same starter switch mechanism as you described. I've punched a lot of those pedals when I was a kid. Brings back the memories. Thanks for sharing your project!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks for your comments, David! Interesting to learn that the system was still used in the fifties for trucks. At least, my understanding was not wrong!
I did notice too that the starter motor is huge compared to the transmission.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The last details were added to the starter motor: the switch, some ribs and the flange for the lever pushing on the switch's button. Now that the assembly is completed, I can do that lever.
I gave a light coat of primer to avoid further oxidation.
The apertures at the commutator's end are just here for the fun. They should be wider to be correct. Anyway, a large cover band will be added later, similar to the one for the generator.
On the pictures I have from Johan, there is another bracket welded on top of the switch for a different actuating lever. On the '32 V-8 photos album, also from Johan, there is no bracket. Therefore I skip it.

[Roger Zimmermann]

There are still a myriad of small parts do do to declare the transmission "completed": the clutch lever, the upper cover with the shaft for the hand brake, the adapter on the left side with the shaft for the clutch and brake pedals, and son on. I elected to continue towards the rear for a good reason: to be able to finish the frame. Transmission and frame? What is the relation? Easy: there are 6 supports for the engine and transmission: 2 at the front, which are done. Two at the rear of the engine, attached to the frame and finally, two at the end of the transmission attached to the second cross member. I need the complete engine and transmission to do this cross member!
The next part needed was the housing for the main shaft of the transmission (sans shaft on the model). This part is an assembly of a "hat" and a lower housing. I had the stupid idea to do the lower housing in one piece. The end result was not so good, therefore is did it in two bits assembled with silver solder.
On the picture, the "hat" has a hole. This was needed to remove the shaft from the idler gear in case of trouble with the transmission installed in the frame.
The next element will be more complicated with my simple equipment: creating the ball seat, ball assembly and rear support. The ball assembly is needed to allow the drive shaft's tube to follow the movements of the suspension. As my suspension will be active like my other models, I cannot escape this provision.

[Roger Zimmermann]

When a scale model is just a push mobile, some liberties are possible. As mentioned in my last post, the torque tube for the drive shaft is attached to a ball. This element is looking like a bell with an outside shape like a ball and the inside shaped in a similar fashion. That ball is pushing on a ball seat and the transmission support is the third member of the assembly. There is a procedure to minimize the free play. That complex set-up is not really suitable for a scale model, so I simplified it. The ball seat in my construction is indeed a ball; the ball as designed by the manufacturer is resting on it. As in reality, the support is closing the assembly.
At first, I intended to have the ball pushed against the transmission support with a spring, however, as the assembly must prevent the rear axle to go forth and back, I modified my design.
The first picture is showing the "ball seat"; the ball and rear support are on the second picture. The third one is showing the assembly. I have some free play (maybe 0.2mm - 0.008") which will not be detrimental to the model.
The rear transmission support is a nice casting which took more time to build as the ball and its seat. Now, I have the total length from the engine and transmission; I will begin the second cross member soon; I may have some other details to do.

[Roger Zimmermann]

As a preparation for the cross member, I assembled the transmission with 3 screws to the engine and put the assembly into the frame. The transmission's supports are about at mid-distance of the frame! The "usable" space is indeed rather small compared to a modern car. No wonder that they offered a longer wheelbase! My model is on the short one, 143".

[Roger Zimmermann]

That second cross member took a long time to build. And sometimes I'm not very productive...Also, it's always a bit difficult to show something at the "right" moment; some may be bored to see some brass bits before the part is looking the way it should. Now I can show it and the way it will be in relation to the transmission: I "just" have to add the brackets to the cross member! You'll probably noticed that the supports at the transmission have bushing made with rubber, more or less like the original. The goal here is not to avoid to transmit vibrations to the frame but to facilitate the installation of the bolts as the bushing/brackets may not align perfectly.
The cross member is also not yet ready to install in the frame: the brake system is attached to it. I have to begin the supports for the actuating tubes; once the supports can be screwed on that crossmember I will solder it to the frame. After that, any drilling at the front or rear will be impossible. Therefore a good planning is the key to the lack of failure!

[Ralph Messina CLC 4937]

 As usual beautiful craftsmanship. I also enjoy seeing the interim work steps that get a piece to it's finished shape