'57 Eldorado Brakes

[salguod]

My Dad's '57 Eldoardo is going to need brakes before being roadworthy.  New hoses, rebuilt or new wheel cylinders and maybe a rebuilt master are planned.  The M/C was new about 16 years ago, but it was never driven much since.  We haven't dove into it yet, but did notice a couple things that were confusing.

Looking at various parts vendors, some list 2 hoses for the rear, some just one.  The car isn't here from storage yet so I can't look at which is right.

Also, looking at the M/C & booster, it's not obvious where the brake fluid reservoir is.  I've attached a picture, is that black tube the brake fluid reservoir?  It's not directly attached to the M/C, it has a hose at the bottom leading to a metal line that disappears past the steering column.

Also, I remember reading something about the '57 booster being different than most.  Something about it using brake fluid in it.  I couldn't find anything from a quick search, however.  Can someone point me to what I need to know there?

[David King (kz78hy)]

Hi Doug.

Here is listing of part numbers to go through the 57 brakes:

Brake Shoes, Front & Rear   ACDELCO Part #17127R

Front wheel cylinder kit  Napa  36

Rear wheel cylinder kit  Napa  21

Master cylinder   Napa 236

Master cylinder Top gasket and bolts  ebay kentucky_kat sells.

Brake hoses (3 required)   Napa 5931  (This is for the Brougham, the rear one on yours might be longer so you will have to check, OK for front)

Booster kit  ebay. caddy_reproductions  When I got my kit, the diaphragm was included, so you might contact them to see if those are available as the kit below does not have them included and most likely you will need that.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-Cadillac-Power-Brake-Booster-Rebuild-Kit-57-Bendix-/221216574488?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3381890c18

There will probably be rust pitting in the wheel and master cylinders, so if not badly pitted, you can hone them out.  If bad, then you can have the master sleeved.  New wheel cylinders are available, but pricey.

The fill tube is the 1 diameter pipe with the square end on the cap and it runs directly to the master cylinder which is bolted to the frame.

I hope this helps.  The fellow I had rebuild the booster is quite good and specializes on Brougham's so if you need someone, I can put you in touch.

David

[salguod]

We were looking at this today, I've never seen a M/C mounted down on the frame like that. 

The brake pedal just drops to the floor and there's brake fluid that drips from the M/C area when we push the pedal.  We have all receipts from the refresh that was done and the M/C was replaced in 1997, but the car was never driven much since.

Hopefully the M/C isn't bad and it's only a bad hose or fitting.  There's a rubber hose from that fill tube to a metal line that wraps around the steering gear to the M/C, is that how it should be?  I haven't gotten under the car yet to look more closely at it.

[David King (kz78hy)]

Yep,  That is the way it is supposed to be.  Brake fluid absorbs moisture, so when not used, the water accumulates and rust happens.  Since the car sat for so long, the repairs done 15 years will not matter and you are starting over.

Good luck.

David

I looked for a photo and this is the best I could find when I was working in that area.  Steel pipe comes from the M/C and up around the rag joint and at the top, it connects to the rubber hose.

[salguod]

Yeah, we were kinda hoping that wouldn't be the case.

The mechanic on site is concentrating on getting the engine running now - oil change, fresh gas, new plugs, wires, cap & rotor as a start.  Once we get her running, we'll decide how to proceed on the brakes.  The first step will be to get it up on stands and see where that fluid is coming from.  I keep flipping back and forth between looking for the problem area and only dealing with that to rebuilding the M/C and all W/Cs and replacing all the rubber lines, just to start fresh.

I'm 100+ miles from Dad and the car and Dad isn't as comfortable diving in himself on this stuff.  He may just hire the on site guy to do the brakes too.  I'd really love to do it, but I can't get up there as often as I'd like.

[Jon S]

I replaced my brake fluid with Castrol's LMA (Low Moisture Absorption) DOT 3 fluid years ago, and no water absorption problems since.

Jon

[Walter Youshock]

I would not attempt to rebuild the HydroVac unless you have the right tools AND experience.  I bought a kit once and decided there was no way possible I would be able to do it.  I gladly sent it to Ed Strain and had him do it.  Chances are, if there is water in the master and wheel cylinders, the booster may be full of rust, have pitted bores, or other damage--such as bad springs.  It's cheap insurance to have it rebuilt and pressure tested before it is sent back to you.  Plus, the booster is where vacuum and brake fluid meet.  One error in reassembly could spell disaster--like losing all your brake fluid.

If you don't already have the Shop Manual--get one.  The BRAKES chapter gives a detailed description of how the HydroVac works and the rebuilding process.