1932 Cadillac V16 scale model

[Roger Zimmermann]

The rear engine supports are made with three element: the supports at the crankcase, another supports attached to the frame and a rubber bushing. I'm not sure why those engines (V8, V12 and V16) needed 3 sets of supports: at the front, at the rear of the engine and at the transmission's end. I see three possible reasons:
- the middle supports help reducing the torsion of the frame (on the V-16, the distance between the first cross member and the second one is huge)
- the second set avoid stress at the drivetrain by supporting it almost in the middle
- it was maybe a precious help when the transmission had to be removed for repair, the engine had not to be supported
In my case, I could do without that middle support set!
There were some difficulties to fabricate those tiny supports: from design, the hole in the frame is not aligned with the engine flange; I had to be creative to find the correct location of the support's end towards the frame. While doing that, I noticed that the RH support has more offset than the LH one. Why? Obviously, my simple equipment does not allow a great precision... 
I don't know exactly how this intermediate supports are installed in real life. Most probably, the ones attached to the frame are installed; then the other support is going through the hole from the support to be attached finally to the engine. To complete the set-up, the bushing is pushed from the outside and is secured with a large nut.
In my case, I have to attach the parts differently: the middle supports are screwed to the engine (because I cannot torque the screws when the engine is on the frame); the external supports are pushed on the internal one like shown on one picture; then the engine is installed on the frame with some rotating movements. When the engine is secured at the front crossmember and the rear, the external middle supports can be attached to the frame and the rubber bushing pushed in place. I will have to remember this curious method, the sole which is practical!
For practical reasons both heads were removed for this task.
Now I really can begin the oil filter. The holes for its support can be seen on the last picture.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The original oil filter holder is made with sheet metal and its shape is too complicated for my taste, therefore I simplified a bit and soft welded the braces and the bolts to the supports. The oil canister was a rather simple job.
Yesterday, I had a funny adventure: a bit of brass was silver soldered to the holder's base. Usually, to clean the flux resulting from silver soldering, I'm putting for 1/2 hour the fresh soldered part into a glass jar containing vinegar. When finished, I'm purring the vinegar back into a bottle. Then, water is coming into the jar. After that, the water is dumped into the kitchen's sink taking care that the part(s) is staying into the jar. Yesterday, I had the impression that the tiny part went away with the water through my fingers. I saw nothing into the vinegar's bottle, nothing into the small glass jar. Where went that part? Most probably into the siphon trap...So, Christine and me began to remove the tubes under the sink, which is never easy. Next to the bad odor and accumulated dirt, we found nothing. Well, we thought, it was probably taken away with the water; it's time to do another part.
When I wanted to store away the glass jar, I saw that damned part, not at the bottom, but near the top! All that trouble for almost nothing, except clean tubes in the kitchen!

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Thankfully you didn't pour it down the Toilet, then flush.

Bruce.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The number of accessories to this kind of engines is incredible... After the oil filter, it was time to do the construction holding the bracketry for the starter motor and the activation of the chokes. They are activated be a lever at each side of a long shaft supported by a tube. As drilling a hole of 1 mm in diameter into a piece about 30mm (1.2") long is not possible with my tools, I ordered a tube 1.5 OD/1.1 ID which will arrive next week. In between, the activating system for the starter motor kept me busy for some time. Thanks for the various pictures I have, I could evaluate the dimensions of all elements.
Probably most of you don't know that the starter motor is activated by a pedal pushed by the driver; the pedal is located almost in the middle of the car. This pedal is not yet done; dimension wise, it's also a guess as I forgot to clearly photography it.
As you can see on the first picture, the actuating lever is away from the motor's switch; on the second picture, it's pushing the round button. A spring will be added to hold back the actuating lever.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I have heard that pedal called a Starterator.

Bruce.

[Roger Zimmermann]

I have heard that pedal called a Starterator.

Interesting...As I assume that this system was more or less the norm at that time, curious nicknames were given sometimes.

[Roger Zimmermann]

We continue with the engine's accessories. One which is not in plain view is a tube or conduit for the spark plug wires. This conduit has 2 studs on top of it to attach the long cover hiding most of the ignition system. Two ignition wires are emerging at each oval holes; the four last wires are exiting at the rear of the tube.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The logical continuation was to do the valley's cover. This part is indeed just a styling element with the benefit to protect the spark plus and wiring from the dust or debris. Anyway, this part is a nice complement to the valve covers.
The original part is stamped, a process I cannot do. The various elements are soft soldered on the main plate. The curious shape at the rear was probably necessary for the first V-16 generation, but not for this one. With so few cars sold with that engine, some cost cutting was a necessity!

[carguyblack]

Will you please post a video when you first start this thing up? With sound way up, too. 
So exact yet unbelievably small. I've stopped trying to figure the process out and am just enjoying each step as you post. Thanks, Roger!
Chuck

[59-in-pieces]

Roger,

I confess I don't check in on your progress that often, but I am never disappointed at your skills... and tenacity.

Look out Smithsonian, who knows if a treasure may some day be coming their way.

Have fun,
Steve B.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Chuck and Steve for your comments!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Even if this not the place to tell it, I have a deep concern about the situation in East Europe. How will that end? (this comment can be removed by a moderator; it had to come out.

The ordered material arrived, so I could finish the starter motor's lever which is inside the car. He is probably not the exact replica, but I'm satisfied with it. Next to that, I did the levers going to the throttle levers, the lever for the hand throttle and the one which will actuated by the gas pedal. All those elements are free to rotate but, as the throttle levers at the carbs are fixes, everything from gas pedal to carbs will be static.
I did also both knobs attaching the valley's cover. Unfortunately, these are too small; I cannot engrave the Cadillac emblem on them!

[Roger Zimmermann]

No, the engine is not completely finished, I just need to do something else. As we are getting towards better outside temperatures, it's a good idea the continue with the tires. I ordered some silicone products for that. I also ordered a bit of brass stock to make the mold for the white walls. All should come next week.
Fortunately for my, I did pictures when I did the tires for the Avanti and Mark II, it's easier to remember "how". And I spared some "tools": the cut can for the first stage and the plexiglass which will be used to separate both half-molds. This later element was used for the Mark II tires; as the Cadillac tires have a larger diameter, I will adapt it for this new usage.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Even if Switzerland is a small country, mail orders are taking time to arrive; the tires will begin later this week. In between, I finished what was still open: the rods going to the carbs. The rods themselves are not a big deal: a 0.8mm rod, bent more or less in the middle. But the small parts to attach the rods are taking time. As the carbs are not functional, I did a trunnion at each carb, soldered to the lever. The rods are just sliding through the trunnions, suppressing any length's adjustment. The pins at the other ends are not very large: the diameter is 0.8mm and a hole of 0.5mm was drilled for the cotter key (which will be just a rod). This does not let too much liberty, the hole must be in the middle!
The red paint on the LH rod is used to differentiate both rods as they don't have exactly the same shape.
There are also rods to operate the chokes. I will not do them now because the shaft to operate them is attached on the firewall. Maybe one day there will be one, maybe not...

[Roger Zimmermann]

One key element was missing for the tires: the master for the white wall. As the manufacturer is on it, I could not just do a negative pattern: I cannot carve the letters for the name. Therefore, as with my other tires, I will do the name with paint. This time, I will write "Firestone". The shape of the characters is not easy; maybe I will have to come back with "Good Year"...
On the picture, the master is just finished; that bit of brass is expensive: about $ 35.00. I'll have first to write the characters with a pencil and then apply the paint with a thin brush.

[Lexi]

Great work as always Roger. Have you considered looking for some rubber O-rings that are the right size for the circular shape of your wheel? You could sand them partly flat OR on your lathe turn a groove for them in the brass to fit half way down. That way you would have a ready made curved looking sidewall that looks like it is inflated with air. Then paint. Perhaps see if there are white colored O-rings. That would save on painting. Just lettering would then have to be done. The sidewall of your tires would even feel like the real thing as you would have used rubber in the process. Just thinking out loud for you.   Clay/Lexi

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks! Your suggested method is a bit primitive for my taste! Could you do with your method a tire looking more or less the same as the one on the picture? This tire is from my previous model.

[Lexi]

That does look fantastic Roger. What process did you finally use? Clay/Lexi

[Roger Zimmermann]

You will see it here. In fact, it's a complex process; I had success with it for 3 scale models; I hope it will turn as well for this one! The process is no my design: it was explained in a book from Gerald Wingrove, a known model builder.

[Lexi]

We eagerly await reading about it here in a future report. Clay/Lexi