1951 Caddy daily driver

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Personally, I have a problem thinking of a 16 year-old driver trying to manhandle one of these cars at the speeds that is being mentioned.

Knowing how good I was at driving when I got my licence at 17, I probably wouldn't be alive today as one really needs years of hands-on experience
to save oneself, and others around at such high speeds.

Don't forget that if the 1951 Speedo needle is showing 80 MPH, the vehicle is most likely moving at a true 65 to 70 MPH.

Bruce.   A retired Police Officer of 33 years, and seen too much of what happens to young and enthusiastic drivers.

[Mowerhoarder]

Jay,
Good to know that, I did know that 6v starters are fine with 12v for a little while at least but assumed I'd weld the points shut or something like that. Happy to hear that's not the case.
I agree with you as far as the bolt on modifications only, I'm sure I'll drive it for a week and then decide it's fine and needs nothing and then put parts on it anyways lol. Those have cloth covered wiring right? The 49' I'm looking at has been converted to 12v and rewired.

Dn,
I'm very familiar with thirsty v8's, the Cadillac is supposed to get better mpg than the car I'm currently driving. I get 7 mpg city and about 12-13 on the highway. It's about $60-$80 a week for gas so anything can be better.
Also the caddy is about the same length as the Dodge I'm currently driving, about 18ft long and 8.5ft wide, with the caddy being 18 or so and 6ft wide.
I think I'm mechanically good enough to fix it myself, I've already done tons of work to the Dodge and I can for sure say that I'm looking forward to working on something better built, 60's mopar quality leaves a lot to be desired.
As far as safety features go, you only live once right? I'm pretty good with checking tires, fluids, stuff like that so it shouldn't be an issue.
I'd say that probably 90% of my driving has been done in that car so I'm more used to the old driving style than new cars (with the exception of speed)

Bill & Lexi,
Good info to know, I haven't really messaged the guy but I figured it should have quite a bit of new parts on it for what he's asking. Also looks to be in pretty good shape minus the weird color combo interior.

I should probably mention how much the cars are, The 49' is $3500, runs and drives and comes with a spare 331 and transmission that both need work, that could be good for performance stuff, just build the engine and transmission then drop it in the car.
The 51' is $7,000 and it runs and drives as well, needs some basic stuff like lights and wipers but otherwise is all good.
I'm also considering a 52' with something like 60,000 og miles on it. It's had the engine rebuilt and looks to be in pretty good shape but hasn't run in decades. I'm no stranger to getting stuff running after 15-20 years but 30-40 is a bit bigger of a jump.

[Mowerhoarder]

Dn,
I kinda thought that too, just looks off for some reason, also a bit beat up for my idea of a 15k car

Tassie,
I am familiar with old boat cars and high speeds, definitely not gonna be going 80 on a crowded interstate but on an open freeway at night with nobody around, I'm sure I'll push that car pretty fast. Not to say I won't make sure its ready to go that fast first. Wheel bearings, tires, steering all has to be good for me to even consider going that fast. I am stupid, but even I know what pushing the limits are and also have no desire to break them. 

[Lexi]

Don't forget that if the 1951 Speedo needle is showing 80 MPH, the vehicle is most likely moving at a true 65 to 70 MPH.

Bruce.  

Yes, old speedos are often out when their calibration is checked against your GPS. Often as Bruce noted on the low side, and to to be out 10% or more is not uncommon. Clay/Lexi

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The Speedos were never calibrated to show that your road speed was faster than what the needle showed.

Doing that would have brought the automotive makers into bankruptcy very soon after the cars were built

They couldn't afford the lawsuits from drivers that were booked for speeding.

These days, with electronics, and the need for complete accuracy in the readouts, it is easy to show the true reading.

Bruce.

[Lexi]

Come to think of it, of the ones that I have checked they were always under calibrated as Bruce noted. I imagine that would also affect your mileage calculation when keeping track of your mpg useage? Clay/Lexi

[billyoung]

My standard advise is always buy the best condition car that you can afford. The cost today for paint and body work and Chrome plating is astronomical.

[Mowerhoarder]

Bill,
I agree with you on that but I'm more into the patina look, Here's a picture of the wagon I have for some idea of what I like.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/152837827902817/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner

The 49' is deep green and has some flaking paint, not a big deal at all for me but could be for the next guy. The 51' has some good patina on it and sort of looks like a rat rod

[jwwseville60]

A 12V conversion will give you brighter headlights/brake lights with a bulb change. Safety first.

A Gear Vendors overdrive might be an option for cruising at 70, but I personally wouldnt go over that speed in a 1950s model.

I also recommend a Restomod Caddy if you really want to daily drive it.
Thay are out there and some might be a good deal.

All good recommendations above.

[Michael Petti]

In college, many many years ago my friend had a 50 Cadillac.  We drove it hard and it took it. Rode and drove like a dream. The constant high speeds did blow the head gasket on one side and the water pump. If you want to drive it hard I suggest a resto mod. At high speed handling and braking were a challenge. Guide yourself accordingly.

[Mowerhoarder]

Jw,
I as thinking that as well, I work with mostly old mopeds and they're all 6v, converted many to 12v but those are far simpler than a car. The gear vendors Overdrive is definitely an option and might happen down the road. As far as resto modding goes, it's either keeping it's factory drivetrain or getting an LS and a 4l60E. I'd like to keep the factory stuff as LS swaps get pricey quick and it also takes the fun out of old cars in my opinion.

Michael,
Good to know, a head gasket shouldn't be a huge issue but if the block warps or it goes un noticed and fills the oil full of water, there's some problems there. It definitely is going to get a disc brake kit for the fronts at least, probably the rears as well. Not sure of there's handling kits out there but I may put one on even though it defeats the purpose of it riding like a Cadillac 

[dn010]

If you can wait a few weeks to a month and want a 57, I'll have my sedan deville up for sale soon. It used to be my daily for years, has a few small issues like a cracked passenger front window, small crack in the windshield. The "bigger" issues is it needs new seat covers, new headliner (seat covers and headliner are both there but ripped and the wrong color) and possibly a dash if I don't complete that before selling. Everything else is done.

[Mowerhoarder]

Dn,
That's not a horrible idea, I do like the 55 and back front ends more but it might grow on me

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Don't forget that when you are sitting in the car, you cannot see the front and back ends.

The only time that you can see them is when you are not driving.

Bruce.

[jwwseville60]

The 1957 option is better IMHO.
It will have more power and better brakes and handling, at least a bit.
For daily driving I would run an Eddy carb since you can find parts fast.
A daily driver? Here's what I would do.

An electric fuel pump is a must. On a switch.
Disc brakes all round.
Maybe a front sway bar that is thicker.
Seat belts.
Good headlights.
A 75 amp alternator. (See: Vintage Alternator for a retro unit).
Steel braided brake lines.
Overflow radiator tank.
An in-line battery cut off switch. (Not the cheap brass ones that wear out).
A return fuel line.
An under dash or trunk mounted AC system.
Tool and parts bag with extra parts and breakdown gear. Orange triangles, Fix a Flat, cables, Etc.

NOTE: One big problem with vintage Caddies is the brake lights. Compared with modern LED units, they are like candles. Luckily, most people's eyes will be on YOU, and not other cars. I would go with bright colors for the paint job.

https://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=167253.msg511599#msg511599

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

There are drivers and then there are drivers. I don't know about anyone else out there but I learned (at 12) to drive a 1947 Dodge pick up with a non syncro transmission, so by the time I was 16 and driving a 1951 non power anything Buick Roadmaster, there were no issues with highway speeds or out driving my brakes. That said, anyone who currently has learned to drive and is driving a "modern" ( 1980 and later) car is going to have quite a learning curve with a '51 anything. Back in 1996 when my '66 Coupe de Ville became my daily driver I learned it's limitations and drove within them.
Greg Surfas

[dn010]

The 1957 option is better IMHO.
It will have more power and better brakes and handling, at least a bit.
For daily driving I would run an Eddy carb since you can find parts fast.
A daily driver? Here's what I would do.

Good thing about my car is most of that work you list is already done - it has an Edelbrock 650 on it with 1" spacer, closed manifold crossover, all LED lights including headlights, brake lights, reverse lights and interior lights, modern fuse block, central door lock system with key fob, It is converted to an alternator, all engine vac lines replaced with silicone, engine mounted fan removed and electric fan added on radiator (never overheats in the FL heat), electric fuel pump, aluminum fuel line (no return line) so you don't have to worry about original rusty steel lines (tank was also "rust sealed"), I don't have steel braided lines but rubber brake hoses recently replaced, new master, new shoes, drums cut, rebuilt cylinders and rebuild booster, new tires, all hoses carrying coolant replaced including the ones to and inside the heater core box (what a PITA that was!), floor has new 80mil sound deadening material laid and new carpet. The engine was rebuilt, had the frame off to coat it and the underbody (no rust holes!). The list goes on and on. I have had this car since 2006. I don't want to sell it but my wife has been out of work for the past 8 months and that is the reason I don't have the time or funds to complete the seat upholstery or headliner and possibly the dash. Things that don't work are the wipers and original radio (has aftermarket head unit in glove box, center floor mounted speaker removed but has two 2X10s above front driver & pass footwells) like most other Cadillacs you'll find. I had rebuild the wiper motor but it failed and was going to go electric for that at this point.

Car is two tone (urethane paint): body is black w/ silver metal flake and roof is silver metallic/metal flake. Bodywork isn't the best but this is a great daily driver. These pictures are from January of this year while I was still reassembling, so the the driver mirror and front corner chrome piece were installed after these were taken, but to give an idea:

[Mowerhoarder]

Caddy Kid,
I did learn to drive in a new car but all of my driving experience after that has been in old cars (pre 70's) so I'm used to drum brakes and terrible handling.

Dn,
That's a beautiful car and I'd love to own it. If I sell my car and it's still for sale, I will for sure let you know
 

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Conor,
It seems you have answered your own question. If you recognize a vehicle's limitations and it's performance envelope AND  drive within it a mechanically "up to snuff" 51 can be a daily driver as long as your again, recognize the need to stick with the maintenance schedule as laid down in the owner's manual and the Factory Service Manual.
Greg Surfas

[Mowerhoarder]

Cadillac kid,
I did I guess, I did still want to make sure there wasn't parts that were just completely obsolete or no upgrades for anything, glad to know that's not the case though!