I'm trying to identify the correct fasteners for the exterior trim for my 1957 Seville, particularly for the chrome trim under each headlight, hood V and crest, and trunk V and Eldorado letters.
I have purchased some thread cutting name plate script nuts with mastic sealer but I'm not sure just where to use them vs the flat push on emblem script clips.
Thanks.
Dave Morris
Dave,
This is from memory from long ago. The trunk letters and front fender scripts are small push on flat clips. Trunk “V†has regular machine thread nuts. The grilles under the headlights are thread cutting nuts. The hood “V’ and crest were reproductions and they had machine thread nuts.
The trunk letters were most difficult to install because of the deck lid double wall construction. Place the letters in the holes, line up the bottom edge with a plastic ruler, tape the letters in place and then install a clip on only one of the pin of each letter. Just snug it down. Then check the alignment of the letters and adjust. Install the second clip and seat the clips completely.
HTH,
Ralph
P.S. Is your Seville white over white with B&W leather interior? If so, what is the Body No. on the I.D. plate?
One important thing with the trunk letters: there was a rubber foam pad that went on the pins before the clips are installed. This way, you don't get water in the trunk from the letter holes. Same with the trunk V.
Walter,
Good catch....Forgot that.
Ralph/Walter,
Thanks for the info! I can see where there had been some sort of seal on the underside of the trunk under the letters but it is long gone and unfortunately a number of the pins on the letters have been bent to hold them in place vs attaching flat clips. Sadly they also did that with the Seville fender scripts.
My Seville is body #1881 and is white/white with an original green Versailles interior.
Dave Morris
Dave,
Nice looking car and the interior appears to be near new.
I’ve repaired broken pins. It takes a few tools, a steady hand and patience. Find some half hard spring wire approximately the diameter of the pins. Cut segments the same or slightly longer than the pins. If you don’t have a wire cutter that will cut spring steel, cut it with a Dremel cut off wheel. Cut the short pins off the letter and carefully file off the remaining material . Don’ take off so much of the pin that you can’t see the center of the pin location. Mount the letter face down on a piece of modeling clay and freeze it. You’ll need a sharp pointed tool to make a starter hole in the center of where the pin was. A small round modeling file will do. You’ll need to find a number drill slightly larger than the spring wire to drill where you placed the starter hole. The clay should be frozen again before drilling to keep the letter from moving. Drill carefully and test the depth so that you don’t come through the face. Install the cut pin wire with JB Weld and remove the excess.
This may sound like a great deal of work but I was very successful with eight letters for my ’66. I bought reproduction letters and found that the pins were not located properly therfore the letters would not sit straight.
HTH,
Ralph
Be EXTREMELY careful with this process!!! The gold lettering is not pot metal. It's anodized aluminum and not as strong or forgiving.
The fender scripts on my car didn't have clips either. The pins were bent to hold them in place. I wonder if the Clark plant ran out of clips.
No Walter, I suspect some line operator figured out that's its easier and faster to bend them. The dastardly deed wouldn't be discovered for a long time.
Luckily, the only broken pin that I have found is on one of the trim pieces below the headlight which I have off the car to be refinished. I will not try to straighten any pins, I'll just put clips/seals on them and follow Ralph's procedure for alignment.
Any hints on how to maximize the adhesion of the black paint on the chrome trim pieces below each headlight?
Thanks!
Dave
Dave,
I recall that the grilles are a two piece unit with the black on one of the surfaces. I scuffed the surface to be painted to dull the chrome using something like 600 grit paper. You only have to remove the glassy shine and dull the surface. I used a rattle can self-etching primer followed by a satin black spray finish. If there’s chrome ribs that are not to be painted, leave them exposed. Wrap a low lint, non-fuzzy piece of cloth around a squeegee and gently wipe the chrome surface while the paint is still wet.
If the pins on the back of these parts are broken you can extend them with brass rod of similar diameter. Square off the end of the pin and drill a small hole for a dowel wire . Drill an end hole in the brass piece for the other end of the dowel. Apply JB weld to both ends of the dowel and push the pieces together.
Ralph
White Swan is one pretty bird! :)
The 1958 Eldorado was the last year of the exclusive body style. That generation Eldorado evoked a top shelf life.
Those cars oozed class and elegance.
Thank you for the complements. I consider myself lucky to be able to be the caretaker for this wonderful car for hopefully a very long time. The Authenticity manual has been invaluable (thanks Walter) and has pointed out the few areas requiring attention such as finding out that my horns were mounted incorrectly and the original horn mounting brackets were missing. I just acquired the correct brackets but I can't figure out how to mount the smaller brace which apparently attaches somewhere on the passenger side. Any ideas?
Today's job will be prepping the lower headlight trim per Ralph's recommendation.
Thanks again,
Dave