Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

[Clewisiii]

I should go out tomorrow and pick up a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

[Clewisiii]

Well I connected my battery and the generator to voltage regulator wire fried instantly.

I will need to replace that. Not letting me add photos again

[Clewisiii]

Should I be able to start the car using the ignition wiring but not hooked up to fuse block. The red battery cable to the ignition looks like it is direct. But the pink wire labeled ignition goes to fuse block along with accessories.

Sorry I cannot upload pictures.

[Clewisiii]

By the way. The fried wire was generator ground. I had it on the wrong terminal on voltage regulator. So I shorted it between generator and voltage regulator.

[Clewisiii]

Finally pictures are uploading again.

Fried generator ground

I am trying to determine what other conditions I need for the ignition wiring to work on the engine.

I put on the neutral safety switch. Only ignition side wires. I need to check my wires at the starter.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Almost had that happen to me in my 55.  I switched out the voltage regulator and one of the contacts stuck closed.  Caught it just was I noticed a tiny whisp of smoke.  Didn't damage anything but could have been worse.

[Clewisiii]

I dropped my rear end and axles off at a shop for them to look them over. I had replaced the seals and bearings years ago. But I have been worried that I had the bearings on backwards. The old bearings were only sealed on outside. The new bearings are sealed on both sides, but different seal types from side to side.  It might not matter but I want them to look it over.

The gears all looked good to me at the time. But I don't know what conditions to look for so I wanted to be sure it was in good condition.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Now that is one odd Vernier.   Never seen any measuring in fractions of an inch.

I have a feeling that these bearings cannot be put on backwards.

As it looks like there is no seal around the axle, then so long as the seal around the bearing itself is on the outside, if there is only one, then that would keep the outside crap out, and the lubricating oil in.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

Does metric decimal and fractional.

I was measuring because a friend with a 65 Buick was looking for rear bearings. His bearing diameter was a whole inch narrower then the Cadillac.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Those new wheel bearings gasve me some trouble. When installed  incorrectly, they will leak in a short time.



The side which has no spring is going towards the wheel and the side with visible spring is towards the differential.

[Clewisiii]

Well I think I need to take in my starter to have it looked over. I rebuilt it about 6 years ago tested it and it has been sitting on a shelf ever since.

I pulled it to test and check all grounds. The bendix kicks forward but it is not rotating currently.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Sounds like the Bendix is not going far enough for the main contacts in the cap of the Solenoid to come together, creating the power to the actual Starter Motor.

It is easy to check, but if you don't know what you are doing, then best leave it to a professional.

The Shop Manual will guide you through it.   There is one nut that has to be undone to allow the bakelite cap to be removed without breaking a special wire.   If I remember correctly, it is the one marked "R".   This one only supplies 12 Volts to the Ignition Coil to bypass the Resistor.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

Ok can anyone give me more advice on what I can look at.

I removed and tested my starter. It is good.


I cleaned all my grounds. I even hooked up a direct ground wire from the starter to the battery. 

I took apart and looked at my neutral safety switch. It looks good and ix in the correct position.



I am trying to use the key and ignition. Nothing is happening. Maybe it is a bad switch. I will need to find a way to test it.

[Clewisiii]

I spoke to soon. I made a jumper for the neutral safety switch and it turned over.

[Clewisiii]

Well it turned over. And it actually started quickly. Little backfire puff in carb and it died. But the starter had a problem again.

It is stuck on without the bendix kicking out and engaging the flywheel.

Hot electrical smell and I had to remove the negative battery cable to get it to stop. I tapped it with a rubber mallet to see if I could get it to disengage. Tapping the negative cable and it turns back on.

But this is still progress. I am happy.

[Clewisiii]

I am so happy.

[James Landi]

So THAT's the way it's SUPPOSED to look!  When I owned my 61 convertible back in '65, the business end of the car always looked sad and neglected.  White with a red leather interior, the outside made an extraordinary presentation, but the neglected engine, while running strong for the 8 years of my ownership,never left me on the side of the road. Sounds like you've diagnosed the issue with the starter... might be an alignment issue with the solenoid and the starter casing---   Looking forward to your next steps Carl.  Happy day, James

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I know it is an odd question, but did anyone leave the return spring out of the Solenoid when putting it back together?

The Return Spring is all that there is to return the Bendix away from the Ring Gear.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

I know it is an odd question, but did anyone leave the return spring out of the Solenoid when putting it back together?

The Return Spring is all that there is to return the Bendix away from the Ring Gear.

Bruce.

The spring was there. I am thinking the wire was arcing to this cap bolt and creating the connection some how.

[Clewisiii]

You know what bugs me. The mechanical oil pressure gauge I bought. It has like a 6 ft long hose. You would just think filling that long of a rubber hose would affect the reading.

I ordered a new generator wire harness.
I will pick up a starter solenoid tomorrow. I should be able to install it on Friday.

I know the engine will start now. I will just need to verify oil pressure and set timing.