1970s 1975 Eldorado Re-assembly

[scottsdaleaz]

Hello all, greetings from Arizona. I have been reading and following IcebearLars's thread and didn't want to inject my questions in line.

I have had my Eldo since the 80's, bought in Houston TX and daily drove it for a bit and did NY and California road trips in it. Now that I am in my "forever home" and set up my "toy shop" i want to get the rig road ready again.  It had a knock on throttle deceleration and low compression in cylinders so i knew it needed a rebuild.

On you tube https://www.youtube.com/@clasiccarsgrzegorz969  did a video on engine removal and splitting the engine from the tranny that gave me the confidence to do the pull.

My challenge is I took the long block to a local reputable rebuilder and the completed engine has some assembly required.  In a different youtube i noticed an "oil slinger" on the crankshaft and realized i didnt have it in my box of take off's from the engine machine shop. Then in IcebearLars thread i see the oil dipstick tube (which is in my takeoff box) and it reminded me i should place that before installing the oil pan i think. So i need to clean it and install it.

I am hoping I can get "over the shoulder" validation as i complete the re- assembly since i had two random reminders. Since the machine shop took the complete engine less accessories these details are not in my memory.  Like for my next step after cleaning the dipstick tube, does it go in from the top or bottom and how is it fastened.

[scottsdaleaz]

Can someone please offer details on the oil dipstick tube, how it is fastened and confirm you slide it in from the top please.

Also the "71" on the casting - does it mean it is a 1971 block in my 1975 car?

[35-709]

Did you take a picture of the tube installed when the pan was removed?  Would come in real handy now.  The tube installs from the top, it is a snug fit in the hole and that is what holds it in place, it must be installed before you put the oil pan on because once installed it has to be bent to clear the rotating assembly.  A picture of the tube installed is in the shop manual --- in my '73 book it is on Page 6-96, Fig. 6-117.  I realize your engine is a '75, but that is the best I can do.  If you have the '75 manual it should be there in Section 6 and will be the same.  The tube has a pressed out collar or neck (for lack of a better term on my part) that restricts its travel into the hole to the proper depth.  Just to please myself, I smear a light coat of hi-temp silicone around the tube below the collar to facilitate installation and prevent any oil seepage.  As I remember I used a #1 Phillips screwdriver (it fits in the tube) and lightly tapped the tube in, striking the top of the screwdriver handle with a hammer.  Be careful bending the tube that you don't kink it, doesn't take too much of a bend, just be sure it clears the rotating assembly, use the pic in the shop manual as a guide.

As to the 7 and the 1, I don't know but would be willing to bet they, #1 - don't belong together (i.e. don't mean 71), and #2 - have nothing to do with the year of your engine.

[TJ Hopland]

Are both holes open or is one still blocked?  If they are both open you also have to know which one is for the Eldo.

I suspect he meant a #3 philips screwdriver, #1 is pretty small.  A 3's shank would be about right for a 3/8 tube.

I destroyed mine while removing it. Replaced it with a piece of 3/8 brake line.  It was the steel type with the black coating on it.  Ground the coating off most of it so it would fit and when the remaining coating hit it more or less locked it in. Left it long and adjusted the height by trimming some off based on filling and running the engine with 6 quarts.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

With the Eldorado the Dipstick goes in the rearmost hole with a ball bearing used as a plug for the front hole.

When I fitted my new one, I used a sleeve (Longer) to act as a driving tool to seat the outer tube, and when inside the block, had to bend the inner part to clear the Main Bearing Cap, plus not too far as to foul the Crankshaft.

I found that I had to begin bending the tube when it was going in, as it was going to hit the Main Bearing Cap well before it was fully in.   Image 47 and 48.

Bruce.

PS.   The ball was removed before the block went to the Machine Shop.   It wasn't hard to punch out, or back in.

[scottsdaleaz]

Thank you all. Yes one hole seems to have a ball bearing. I usually hit the project every weekend. Will update.

[scottsdaleaz]

I see it now.  For new, its $45 w/ shipping. Is it critical to use new vs reusing?

[scottsdaleaz]

And can this nut be a zinc plated steel nut not grade 8?  Use locktite?

I did not strip down the innards of the engine so I may not have all the takeoff parts. The front two hold down bolts of the pickup tube I sourced grade 8 flange bolts.  (arrow should be on the other side threaded stud)

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Doesn't really matter what nut it is, but simply follow the Assembly Directions, and Torque to 35 Lbs Ft.   Nothing wrong with using Loctite.

Bruce.

[35-709]

"I see it now.  For new, its $45 w/ shipping. Is it critical to use new vs reusing?"

I don't see how you could reuse the old one, it has to go in from the top and then be bent.  Doesn't seem to me it could be made straight enough to be driven out from inside the block.  Remember, there is a "neck" (or "stop ring") on the tube so you can't drive it out (down) from the top. 
Full(er) disclosure, I used a piece of stainless tube ordered from Aircraft Spruce & Supply on mine, just have to measure the length of the outside portion to the old neck (which won't be there on a plain piece of tubing) to make sure you get it the right length on the outside of the block --- that measurement is important to get an accurate oil level reading.

[scottsdaleaz]

Not sure how the machine shop straightened it to get it out.  I will clean it up and inspect it.

[scottsdaleaz]

I managed to clean and reuse the dipstick:



Two questions related to the trans seal and the distributor stud:

What size is  the distributor stud?  I may have years ago used a course nut on it:



For the transmission, so odd , with naked eye after some cleaning, and because some errant silicone cleaned off,  I thought I was all set because seemed like silicone seal. But when i zoomed on the photos on my PC - sure looks like the cork gasket seal. So the consensus is now is the time to open it up, clean and use sealant to reassemble? Thanks in advance!

[TJ Hopland]

I was thinking the top side of the stud was a fine thread,  block side may have been coarse.

[scottsdaleaz]

I was thinking the top side of the stud was a fine thread,  block side may have been coarse.

I bought one but it's too big so was hoping to know what i was shopping for size wise with out being taxed from mentioning Cadillac 500.

Also thinking through how to get the stud out,  I suppose rethread the fine thread (i think i have that tool) and get two nuts on it and back it out?

[scottsdaleaz]

5/16  UNC  / UNF for distributor stud, unscrewed fine. ...   thanks...  my progress is slow.

[scottsdaleaz]

To reinstall the Harmonic Balancer, is the crankshaft bolt 5/8-18?  The installer bolt does not hand thread in but the machine shop may have damaged the outer thread with a puller.   

I do not have a thread chaser that size/ thread count but i think I have a bolt i can improvise with a slot to repair if i was sure of size and thread count..

Thanks in advance.

[TJ Hopland]

I believe it is 9/16-18

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Henry,

You have an email from the Moderators of this Forum that requires your attention.

Thanks,

Bruce.

PS.   While you have the cover off, check the condition of the two lower waterpump threads.   If they are not perfect, reinforce the threads with a piece of steel, or a proper nut, Brazed or Silver Soldered to the cover.   This way, you won't experience the problems of a stripped thread whilst replacing a water pump.

[scottsdaleaz]

Hello again.

Yes the crank bolt was 9/16 - 18 , threads were dirty which caused the bolt resistance giving me doubts.


Can someone tell me if the front cover seal is set in from the front outside or from inside please.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

From the outside.

One of the ways to see how an oil seal sits is to look at the angle of the inner lip of the seal.   If it is pointing outside, then any internal oil pressure will allow the oil to leak out.

With the inner part of the seal pointing to the pressure side, any pressure will press on the seal, pushing the seal harder onto the shaft.   Creating an even better seal.

Bruce.