Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

[Clewisiii]

Well I supposedly purchased a reproduction coil. But it does not fit in the bracket.

[Clewisiii]

Someone tell me a story about staples.


I know that sellers sell these staples. But you have to install them by hand.   Has anyone done this for the rubber shields.

Was it a tedious pain, or was it exciting because it was probably one of the last steps.

[Cadman-iac]

Someone tell me a story about staples.


I know that sellers sell these staples. But you have to install them by hand.   Has anyone done this for the rubber shields.

Was it a tedious pain, or was it exciting because it was probably one of the last steps.

 I've done some of these for one of my trucks, a 64, and it uses the same size as my 56 Cadillac does.
 I found that the staples that Danchuk supplies for the tri-five Chevys are the same ones. The only thing is that you do have to install them all by hand.
 A really good pair of needle nose pliers is a must in order to get the bend to look proper. Unless someone else has found a better way of course.
 I'm not looking forward to doing all that on my car, especially the ones around the inner fender wells where you can't take it apart for access.

 Hope this is helpful, and good luck with your efforts. You've got a great looking car there.

 Rick

[Cadman-iac]

 As for your coil mount bracket, you can use a longer screw to retain the coil, as long as the spread between the two mounting holes isn't too wide to mount it on the manifold or wherever it goes.
 I've ran into this problem as well on another vehicle.


   Rick

[Clewisiii]

The insides are done. Still need to rotate these then a second coat and they will be done.   I decided in the future I am only buying por15 in 8 ounce cans not quarts.  After just two uses I had to destroy the lid to get it off. 

[David Greenburg]

I did the inner shields on my '60.  I installed the staples by hand.  Pretty tedious.  It helps to have a pair of "micro" needle noses.IIRC the replacement staples were slightly larger than the originals.

[Cadman-iac]

The insides are done. Still need to rotate these then a second coat and they will be done.  I decided in the future I am only buying por15 in 8 ounce cans not quarts.  After just two uses I had to destroy the lid to get it off. 

The trick to the POR-15 is to keep the can upside down when you close it. That's supposed to keep the stuff from drying up in the groove and gluing the lid on. And another tip I've heard is to use a piece of plastic, like half of a baggie and put it over the top of the can before you put the lid back on.
 The stuff begins to dry once it's exposed to air, so if the can is upside down, then the only place it drys is on the "bottom" of the can. And it also depends on how much air there is too. An almost full can won't be as likely to do that as one that's half empty.
My dad used to be a distributor for this stuff so I've got a bit left from after he passed, and I'm still using it. The one's that I forgot to turn upside down or cover first did glue themselves shut and I had to toss them.
One other thing, if you have just a small amount left, it's probably going to dry in the can regardless of what you do.

Rick

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Trust that the paint on the drums is really thin, as in actual fact, the drums should not be painted, as when left bare, they dissipate heat far better than painted.

As for staples, I have made my own when required by using thin welding wire, and with a pair of pliers bend the wire into the correct "U" shape, and cut off the excess.   Push the ends through the rubber, and simply bend over the points.   Getting the exact factory shape at the bend will require a formed die to create the visible arch.

Bruce.

[Cadman-iac]

 What size of welding wire are you using Bruce? I've got .023 and  .035, but even the  .035 seems like it's too small to me. Although it is easier to get it to go through the rubber and easier to bend than the original size wire staples.

 Rick

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Not sure the size, but it is the wire I use for Oxy Welding.   Don't use Mig wire, that's' for sure.   Next time I am in the garage, I will measure it.

Bruce.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

1.5 mm  Welding wire.   Or 0.059 Inch.

It is virtually the same thickness as the factory staples.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

Wow. I haven't heard anyone Oxy welding in a while.

[David King (kz78hy)]

I used the staples that came w/the the rubber dust shields/flaps.  I had to open up the holes a little to fit the staples through and then bend over with needle nose pliers and sometimes hammer flat.  It takes forever to reinstall all the dust shields.  I made a quick note in my thread #99.  https://www.autocityclassic.com/1957-1958-cadillac-convertible-series-62-jobs-6267-x-sx/1957-1958-buick/cadillac-2-door-hardtop-and-convertible-windshield-w523/

[Clewisiii]

I am not going to fill every pit. But there are a few I will try.

The panel behind the battery, the top of radiator core support air cleaner lid.

If he sandblasts again he may remove some of this. But I will sand them well and let him know which ones have filler before powdercoating

[Clewisiii]

Can this vacuum pot be replaced or rebuilt.  I have tested it and it does not hold vacuum.

[35-709]

Believe EGGE Machine does them.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Wow. I haven't heard anyone Oxy welding in a while.

I do it all the time.   Better than Mig Welding on panel steel and when making exhausts and headers.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

I have a flex plate nuts question. I was trying to torque these to 20 ft pounds and realized that these nuts are only threaded on the split face end.

I could not get enough thread engagement to tighten these.

Can I just get new nuts. Do I need this same type. Or may something else be wrong

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Those nuts have been stripped by a previous "mechanic".    And are now only good for sinkers.

I wonder if he tried to use a washer under the nut, thereby lessening the amount of thread to catch.

These were not meant to have lock washers, as the nut end does that.

Bruce.

[Cadman-iac]

Hi Carl,

 I don't think those are supposed to have threads in just the top half. From looking at your picture it appears that they were stripped before they were threaded on all the way, leaving just the top portion with threads.
 If you attempt to torque those, you may end up stripping the rest of the threads.

 Rick