Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

[Clewisiii]

Installing the inner fenders and supporting at the rear will probably be the easiest.

[Clewisiii]

This has just been so much fun. There is no reason this should not be started by the end of October. Unless something catastrophic goes wrong.

Right now I cannot really fit the lower radiator hose until the core support is sitting more firm

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Carl,

Not sure if I showed you the drive that I made to prime the 390 in my '60 CDV.

As I didn't have a reversible drill, I used an old socket on the end so I could use my Speed Brace to turn it.

The roll pin in the end is to stop the oil pump intermediate shaft from jamming in the tool which could accidentally lift it from the pump as I pulled the primer out.

Before I assembled the engine, I used the intermediate shaft to act as a mandrel so I could shape the end of the primer to fit.  And ne slightly loose, so, again, it couldn't grab it as I pulled it out.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

Well having issues with photos. Tried three different photos on two different threads and it will not upload right now.

But. I made a drive rod. I had to use 3/8 black pipe since I could not find the right size steel pipe. Drive on an old deep well socket and ran it up. I went until oil dropped from every lifter on the driver side, and oil was leaking from the passenger side valve cover.

I have a question. Should I clean up and seal down the valve covers now. Or wait and do this again closer to my start. I know everything is working now. And oil has traveled to where it needs to go.

[Clewisiii]

Oil is primed tried for hours to upload pictures. Even leaked out of the valve cover I did not remove.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

With the oil coming out of the Rocker Shaft and oiling the Rocker Arms, that is good.

But, what I do when priming any engine that hasn't run before is to spin the oil upmp to bring up pressure, rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees, and spin the pump again, and turn the crank another 90 degrees, spin pump, and continue the 90 degree turning of the crank and spinning the pump, until you have completed 2 full turns of the crankshaft.

This way, you have made sure that all points of the engine, has received oil, as it would during a working cycle, as this oil only gets to some points, like the underside of the pistons and cylinder walls when the crankshaft and connecting rods are in certain positions.   Also the cam followers, as they go up and down, opening the oil galleries to them.

As for sealing up the rocker covers, yes.   Less messy in case you forget.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

I am ordering the power steering hoses from McVeys. I don't like these Caddy Daddy ones.

In two weeks I am going to have to contact the local Amsoil rep and order up a bunch of fluids. And dang the pictures stopped loading again. I know it is not me. I probably upload more pictures then anybody.

[Clewisiii]

It is annoying that I bought belts from the same store. They had to order them in. And they don't match. But not to bad for now.

I still need to connect my lower radiator hose. And make the trans coolant connections. No I would like to have a lift. But I do not have the space for it.

 

[Clewisiii]

A question to the 6162 owners. Does the negative battery cable come out in front of the core support or behind it.

I think only the positive cable passes over the core support.

On the subject of battery. My original battery hold down was rubber coated. It looks like a the ends were dunked in z thick plastidip. The new one is just painted metal.

Finally able to upload a picture again. The first photo was loading the entire time I was writing this post
 

[Clewisiii]

See if my luck holds. 

No pictures are not loading again.

In order to install the lower radiator hose I had to unbolt the radiator fan shroud. There was not enough room for the rubber to press on with the shroud there.

For the trans coolant hoses I will need to bend the hard lines around a bit. I think the new flex lines are a little longer then original. I need to pull the ends of the hard lines back to make sure there is enough room for the extra long flex lines. 

For the engine start can I use my actual ignition key and wiring. Or would I need to also hook up the neutral safety switch to make that work.

[Clewisiii]

This post let me add pictures so I did as many as I could before they stopped uploading.

Battery cables and hold down. The negative I believe needs to be moved in front. The hold down should be plastidipped


Ignition wiring. I was debating just starting with the key. But I think I will need to hot wire.

Lower radiator hose.  I had to loosen the shroud to install.

I need to wiggle around the hard lines.

[Clewisiii]

I decided to remove the brackets for rear disc brakes. I am going back to drums. At the sand time I am going to have a professional go through my rear end.

I am worried about the crush sleeve. And I think one axle bearing is 1/8 inch from being fully set. I do not need to have to have the rear end done to restart the engine. But if I can swing it in my time frame why not.

[Clewisiii]

Carl, several years ago I was at a show where a guy had an original unrestored 1961 Fleetwood. He showed me an original paint drip running across the radiator support. He said that was due to how they painted it. They hung it vertically and sometimes the paint would run, leaving an odd-looking drip down the top of the radiator support.

Yes they did. I tried to save mine for a while. The first time I sand blasted my core support the paint runs were thicker. Once only the run remained I stopped sandblasting. My fresh paint was over the run so you could see it. But then I decided I do not care that much. I have way to many painted over pits in the metal to worry about keeping a run.

[Clewisiii]

I sealed down the valve covers today. I will torque them tomorrow.

Man working around that AC bracket is a pain. In order to clear the upper stud I had to lift the bracket and valve cover at the same time.

[Clewisiii]

Those axles will be out for a while. The gear lube smell has already stunk up my shop.

[Clewisiii]

Can you tell me how this adjustment screw functions between the chock and throttle.

[Clewisiii]

This one if I was not clear.

[Clewisiii]

Since we were talking about it in another thread. I decided I should pick up and install a splash apron set since I am in that area.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

That screw is to adjust the fast idle when the choke is in any position, than fully open.

When fully open, the screw sits in the gap at the end of the choke lever.   You will notice that the lever is graduated so that as the choke is opening from closed, the throttle is moving with it.   Like a ramp.

Bruce.

[jwwseville60]

Man o man, I would give anything to have the skills to do a project like this.
I recommend a vintage alternator...it looks original.
Some where on their forum is my emergency trunk tool and parts list.
I keep everything in vintage bags from eBay.