Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

[Clewisiii]

Just a little curiosity I noticed.

The headlight on driver side wires splice directly into the main wire.

But the wires on the passenger side jump off of the flag connectors in the connector housing.


Fitting two wires in the flag connector is a little tight. I wonder why they chose to do it differently from one sided to the other.

[Clewisiii]

The modified clip works. I just hope rotating this 90degrees isn't a problem.

I am still waiting on the purple wire that goes into this socket. Even though it is for fog lights and I do not have fog lights.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Are you referring to the Black Ground wire as the "main" wire?

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

Are you referring to the Black Ground wire as the "main" wire?

Bruce.

I ment main as in wire bundle. The main trunk of wires.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Ah ha.   The Loom.

I would think that the passenger side would have no reason to go back into the loom after leaving the lights as it is just the end of the Ground Wire.

Another way of putting it is that the Passenger Side is closest to the Battery Ground, and the ground wire to the Drivers Side is put into the loom to simply tidy it up.   As against putting individual grounding tails from each light to ground.   More chance of getting bad grounds from additional screws.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

I got the multi wire splices done. The original had adhesive fabric tape over these splices then friction tape over that. I now have my friction tape. I ordered the fabric tape today.

[Clewisiii]

Dang. I received more wires from YNZ today but I forgot to order baby blue. The last color I need for the headlight harness.

[Clewisiii]

I just need that light blue wire. Then I can transfer this bulk connector.


I have two headlight connectors I need to make up. I had to modify T59 straight connectors to use as flag connectors. Not the best. I have tried to solder all these after crimping. But I am short one connector. I ordered a bunch of European H4 flag connectors. I am told they will also fit T3 bulbs. We will see. I may need to cut off and redo the headlight connectors.

[Cadman-iac]

  What I've been doing is uncrimping the good ones from any old harness and re-crimping them onto the new wires, then soldering them to be sure. It's tedious, but it works.
I've tried to get new Packard 59 terminals, both the straight and the 90° ones, but like you I was only able to find the straight ones.

  Rick

[Clewisiii]

What I've been doing is uncrimping the good ones from any old harness and re-crimping them onto the new wires, then soldering them to be sure. It's tedious, but it works.
I've tried to get new Packard 59 terminals, both the straight and the 90° ones, but like you I was only able to find the straight ones.

  Rick

I tried. I took a blow torch to the old terminals but was not able to unsolder them. It must have been some type of brazing.

[Clewisiii]

Well the side that is hooked up works.

Regular



High Beam

[Cadman-iac]

I tried. I took a blow torch to the old terminals but was not able to unsolder them. It must have been some type of brazing.

I've just been prying the crimped tabs off the wires, usually they were not soldered.  But if they are, when you heat it to melt the solder, use an air nozzle to spray it off the terminal as you are heating it. The amount of solder they used is minute, so it's not going to just drip or run off on its own.
 Then you can pry it loose from the wire.
 It's tricky, as these weren't meant to be reused, but patience and perseverance will yield results.
 Good luck.

 Rick

[David King (kz78hy)]

I would be using shrink wrap over the joints vs. a bunch of tapes. Just my preference.

[Clewisiii]

Well the friction tape I bought is actually the fabric tape that was used over the splice joints. It feels like fabric embedded with tar. So I am comfortable there.

I still need the non adhesive tape to wrap the harness in. And to install the headlight plugs on one side and main block.

I have to remove and sonic clean that block. The retainer bracket is just coated so I will just blast a d paint that.

$400 would have been to much for this harness. But I will pay $400 for the Underhood portion. It is twice the content so more worth it.

[Cadman-iac]

 I use that fabric tape to protect the spliced areas, then everything gets wrapped with the harness tape.
 The factory used the fabric tape and it kept the splices safe from contact for all these years, so I figured it's worth using again.

  Rick

[Clewisiii]

I contacted Warren Gear. He said he was glade I called because he forgot to call me. The rear end is good to go. $100.  Now I just need to go down and pick it up.

[Clewisiii]

It looked to good to paint. Since it gets bolted to the radiator core support I decided to leave it yellow.

[Clewisiii]

Quick little rebuild on the trunk release and open indicator light harness.

I want to polish this release switch more.  And I need to order this style of lamp base. They are available. Honestly I am sure the wires were fine. But the connectors were brittle, and lots of corrosion on the terminals.

Honestly inside of that light socket I could not even see the ground side of the socket since it was corroded and dirty.

[Clewisiii]

My rear end gear is done. I picked it up today. But it is cold and I am not doing anything with it today so it will sit in my car until I am home from work tomorrow.

[Clewisiii]

My exhaust hangers from Grant in a New Zealand have landed in Los Angeles. So hopefully I will have them next week.

I will be able to fit the exhaust to final position.

Install the rear end, springs, and start working on rear brakes. 

I really want to get the rear back on wheels.

I currently cannot push the frame around due to rear end, and the back of the inner fenders are supported by 4x4 blocks. I need to build a bracket to allow those to be supported by the frame until the body can be installed.

I did my oil change to switch out the Cam breakin oil with the next round of break in oil for the first 500 miles.

I have not switched out water for coolant yet. But no leaks.

And I need to buy new shocks. I have a set of Gabriel Classics gas charged shocks. But I think I want to switch those out for hydrologic shocks from Shocks 2 Springs.

I am going to continue with instrument panel work soon. Radio restoration and some new chrome.