Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

[Clewisiii]

I am so very grateful that there is relatively little left that I need to purchase.  Now there is still plenty that i need to pay to restore. But actually buying components, there is little left that I need.

[Clewisiii]

Well I am now far enough along that I can put the engine and frame away, and transition to bodywork.



I rearranged the shop layout. I will align the body to my spray booth and build a plastic tent around the body.

[Clewisiii]

I have a few sports of welding to do on the body.

Weld up old seatbelt holes. They were in the wrong place.

One fender skirt bracket had a broken weld.

And a couple of body brackets below the firewall could use some work.

I am starting with the seatbelt holes. They just drove an awl or a screwdriver through the floor.

I don't know why I was hammering them flat. I just drilled them out and cut plugs.

[Clewisiii]

Test fitting my fuel lines.

Can anyone give me pointers on how the lines rout and hang at the ends.

The last clamp to body is just forward of the axle. The the lines would go over the axle to the fuel tank.

Well the axle moves and I am worried about how to rout the lines there.



Then at the front the lines need to enter the engine bay from the inside of the frame. There are clamps on the front of the engine. But does anyone have images on how the lines route to the side or under the engine.



This is the only image I can find. This is in the manual, there are no images in the parts book.

This manual image I believe is not accurate just representative.

[Clewisiii]

I contacted Inline Tube and brought my rear E Brake cables to them. They told me they could not recreate them.

So I asked if I restored the parts could they put in a new Cable. They said maybe.

So I disassembled everything and did the best I could to restore them. I even put in other cables that I had. I just need a barrel put on one end.

[R Simone]

I sure am happy to see the pictures restored to this amazing and detailed build.  I had something similar happen years ago restoring a 1968 IH Scout and everything was lost to history...

[Clewisiii]

I like being able to see both sides of my welds. Looking from this side I can see a couple of pin holes on one of the plugs I will need to hit again.

[Clewisiii]

Well the seatbelt holes are welded up.

Next is the loose fender skirt bracket.
There are several coats or primer and paint. So I may need to sandblast this area before I can weld it.

[Clewisiii]

I love my rotisserie. But I do not want to store it after I am done. Even apart it takes up a lot of room.

But in the 8 years my body has been on this rack it has been more then worth it.

[Clewisiii]

Better image of the bracket that needs to be welded. This is a big gap. I wonder if the bracket was welded in the wrong place originally. It does seem to be turned a little differently than the other.

[Clewisiii]

Can now confirm the fender skirt brackets were originally yellow plated.

[Clewisiii]

But now I have a concern. The front bracket bolts into the rocker. I assumed there was a weld nut in there. No there is a threaded backer plate that moves. If I finish unbolting this bracket the plate will fall into the rocker.


There is a small access hole inside the body. But I cannot get my hand in there and you cannot actually see the backer plate from the angle. So now I must decide if I am going to risk it and take off this bracket.

[Clewisiii]

Ok I am working in my trim shop today.

A while ago I had bought some new marshall unit springs to replace some of the seat springs. The problem is these springs are to stiff. Hard to get the seat to really shape the way I want it.



So like I did for my front seat. I will try to restore as many of the original springs that I can. I can then see the pockets looser to get the cushion to plump up a bit.

So last time I sandblasted, painted, and sewed them up. I would like to get this done soon so I can get rid of that smell. And mouse droppings that are still falling around.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Does anyone still make the burlap material?

[Clewisiii]

Does anyone still make the burlap material?

Yes, but I won't use burlap. It collects oders and can rot to easily. I will see with a cotton or muslin material. That is what the cushion springs had.

[Clewisiii]

Laying out and cutting the Ram board for a temporary spray booth floor. It will be 12.5x 24 ft.  I haven't decided if I will center it in the room. Or off to one side.

If I go off to the side I can fit the frame along side it and keep a fair amount of room by my tool box and work bench.

[Roger Zimmermann]

If I'm understanding well, you intend to make a spray "room". The width will be 12.5 ft. Too narrow in my opinion. You need at least a good 1 meter on each side to be able to spray the paint with some liberty movement. Could be that I'm wrong...

[Clewisiii]

If I'm understanding well, you intend to make a spray "room". The width will be 12.5 ft. Too narrow in my opinion. You need at least a good 1 meter on each side to be able to spray the paint with some liberty movement. Could be that I'm wrong...

I am only sanding and spraying primer. The only body color will be on firewall. Which will have 6ft of room. I do not want to sand in my nice new clean shop.

[Roger Zimmermann]

I am only sanding and spraying primer. The only body color will be on firewall. Which will have 6ft of room. I do not want to sand in my nice new clean shop.

Ah! I'm understanding better. for that job, your dimensions are OK. Thanks for the explanation!
By the way, I had the same approach with my '56 de Ville and '56 Biarritz: I let the color coat to the professionals.

[Clewisiii]

Well the floor is down. And I moved the frame along side. Now I need to buy lumber to build the room. I was going to go 24 on center then realized all this is holding is plastic. I may do 36 on center.

The body is still on wheels do j can slide it side to side within the booth if I need to.