oil leak, coolant leak, belts..<sigh>

[cadillacmike68]

Rotor / hub was a two piece for 1968-71, but one piece for 1972 & up.

You aren't going to find either part for 68-71.

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Hi Laurie:

Yes, you can buy just the rotor and take the
rotor / hub apart.  However, I don't know what
shape your parts are in.  They may be too worn,
rusty, etc.

Since you can't find the correct rotor for you car,
buying the "hub/rotor assembly" isn't in the cards.

If you're going to use Cadillac Mike's trick of using
the '72 rotor all the other parts you may need will
have to be purchased separately and fitted by Scott. 
He'll have to look into that and see what he needs.

Unless, in the meantime, you find 1970 rotors (maybe
that lead I gave you will work?).


Mike

They're pretty corroded...
Calling your guy is on my very short list of things to do tomorrow Mike.
The first morning I don't have to set my alarm in over a month.

\m/
Laurie

PS Just in case Scott says the radiator has a leak, another Autozone nearby had 1 (one) in stock, $100.
Its in the trunk. 

[bcroe]

Here cars get the softer organic pads and shoes.  They take less
pressure and are quite adequate with the 12 inch rotors.  They
wear faster, so I need to replace $20 pads instead of $200 rotors. 
Most of my rotor replacements are due to rust in the air vents
weakening the rotor. 

For racing or rides down Pikes Peak you might need the better fade
resistance of high performance stuff like ceramic.  Bruce Roe

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Here cars get the softer organic pads and shoes.  They take less
pressure and are quite adequate with the 12 inch rotors.  They
wear faster, so I need to replace $20 pads instead of $200 rotors. 
Most of my rotor replacements are due to rust in the air vents
weakening the rotor. 

For racing or rides down Pikes Peak you might need the better fade
resistance of high performance stuff like ceramic.  Bruce Roe

Bruce where are you finding rotors....

\m/
Laurie

[bcroe]

Bruce where are you finding rotors....   \m/   Laurie   

I haven't had to buy a rotor in a long time.  But that is good advice to
convert to the slightly newer ones.  67-70 were transition years from
drums to front discs, and parts can be difficult.  A couple years later
things got standardized for a while and are much more available. 
good luck, Bruce Roe

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Hold your breath folks, I may have found the ultimate hack for 1970 rotors on another forum.
Picking up 2 tomorrow at Autozone, we'll see if this works. These rotors are 1/4" less in diameter and 1/8" shorter in hub depth, not enough to scare me... stay tuned. Oh, and they're $46.....

\m/
Laurie

[cadillacmike68]

That would mean new calipers, etc. Might even require different steering knuckles. and then eventual replacement issues.

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

That would mean new calipers, etc. Might even require different steering knuckles. and then eventual replacement issues.

All the parts fit, no mods. Stay tuned....

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Stupid question.  Have you thought of turning your rotors? Are they within specs?
Greg Surfas

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Stupid question.  Have you thought of turning your rotors? Are they within specs?
Greg Surfas

That would be too easy... surface is already below the edge of the rotor.

\m/
Laurie

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

What do they measure (with brake rotor micrometer)?
Greg Surfas

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

What do they measure (with brake rotor micrometer)?
Greg Surfas

Mech said they can't be turned, no idea what the measurements were/are.
What's the minimum for another turning and where are you taking that measurement?

\m/
Laurie?

[chrisntam]

My recollection is the minimum thickness is stamped on the rotor.  I don't recall what it is though...

chris.

[Mike Josephic CLC #3877]

It's not just the minimum thickness that enters into
this.  If there is a big rust ridge on the outer edge most
mechanics will not try to turn it.  Time to replace.

Mike

[cadillacmike68]

And we're down the rabbit hole...

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

And we're down the rabbit hole...

LMAO!

Those rotors are cancerously (new word, I own it) corroded. Hub, edges, everything.

'Hack' replacement of rotors tomorrow, if this works, you guys will be the first to know.
CaddyDaddy wanted $466 (shipped) for 'replica' rotors, another source $550 shipped, manufacturer unknown.
The rotors I got today were $40 each (with my veteran's discount). Same size inner/outer bearings as the 'correct' rotor.

Stay tuned...

The AC/PS belts arrived, same number on them, different teeth design on each, I lost my mind.
"You have to relax Laurie, they only need to be the correct width and length. Its not a pair of shoes."
<sigh>
Another AC condenser arrived today via eBay, $100 shipped. Totally complete, it will fit. Just wish I had the
time to straighten all the fins and paint it. Its being installed tomorrow morning, oh well. At least that hole will
soon be filled.

Heritage show this Saturday, Father's Day Show a week from Sunday.

\m/
Laurie

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Good day with my crew chief, only 8 hours....

Oil leak, as Scot M. said, was coolant blowing back from the fan, hitting 48 years of road schmutz and dripping down looking like oil. No oil leaks, no leaks at all were found.

Coolant leak was a failed cheap radiator. I prepared for such by buying another cheap radiator ($100, Autozone) and having it in the trunk. And another gallon of Prestone concentrate.

Bottom pulley, crank shaft... Some turnip replaced the bolt that holds the pulley on with a bolt TOO LONG. The pulley was wagging as soon as the belt was removed. Of course that bolt doesn't exist at NAPA but the width and threads were correct, so Scott simply cut the bolt to its proper length and replaced, now the pulley is nice and tight. But warped a bit from who knows how many years of being run that way. He replaced all 3 belts (autozone, $24 for all) and there was an 80% improvement in visual wobble on the crankshaft and over the top of the power steering unit. I noticed an immediate smoother idle and better steering. Scott's advice was to leave well enough alone with the crank shaft pulley. He noticed the bracket that holds the power steering pump on is cracked, and recommended I start looking for another but not in panic mode.

The AC condenser (#3) that I got on eBay ($100 shipped) - FITS! Too bad it came in last night, not enough time to straighten the fins, clean and paint. So I straightened the fins while Scott fiddled on other things, I'll spray paint it before Heritage on Saturday in place.. with lots and lots and lots and lots of drop cloths.

We ran out of day, so the front brake rotor/pad replacement will have to wait until next week depending on our schedules. I'm excited to do this, mainly because I need better front brakes but more importantly if these parts really work as reported - its a cosmic game changer for those of us who own this year of Caddy.

Pics of the new belts and new condenser and radiator attached.

\m/
Laurie

[bcroe]

Thats a nice days work.  You just never know what you will find someone
has done to an old car. 

With a cheap radiator its good to have a temp gauge for keeping track
of things.  In fact, it is really just a good idea to have a temp gauge, I
have put them on every car.  A 1.5 inch gauge with 270 degree scale
and a gas bulb fits a lot of places. 

These days the cheap radiators seem to come from Asia, and they don't
have all the cooling elements of the originals.  After marginal experience
with my last one a decade ago, I broke down and had a rather expensive
radiator built, no more issues. 

If a power steering bracket is cracked, a replacement might have the same
weakness.  Here my MIG welder would attempt to not only repair it, but add
metal as needed to be sure it would never crack again.  Bruce Roe

[35-709]

"Here my MIG welder would attempt to not only repair it, but add
metal as needed to be sure it would never crack again.  Bruce Roe"

Same here, betcha Scott has a MIG.

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

"Here my MIG welder would attempt to not only repair it, but add
metal as needed to be sure it would never crack again.  Bruce Roe"

Same here, betcha Scott has a MIG.

I mentioned welding it, he said to get another one.

The car came with gauges, that didn't work. And 4 live wires behind the
gauges about to set the firewall insulation on fire... Wires were twisted
together and wrapped in duct tape. <sigh>

\m/
Laurie