Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

[Clewisiii]

Well I ordered the Fleetwood fender Crest and crowns from Summit racing.

I am certain I will soon get an email saying these are no longer available.

[Mike Baillargeon #15848]

Well I ordered the Fleetwood fender Crest and crowns from Summit racing.

I am certain I will soon get an email saying these are no longer available.

Have faith Carl....this time they're going to be there !  haha !

Mike

[Clewisiii]

Polishing up the inside of this running light prior to plating. This one is my test. It also has a broken trim screw stuck in it. I may try to drill it out if this comes out clean.

 The more polished they are. The brighter they will be during plating.

[Clewisiii]

With enough prep I think that these can be very reflective on the inside.


But I will need to drill out this broken screw.

[Clewisiii]

This crimping tool sucks.

I could probably force it to work. But it does not do what it needs to.

[Clewisiii]

My interior bulb sockets and bulb bases terminal ends arrived from YNZ.

These terminal ends are needed for both the interior lights. And top of fender indicator and lower running lights.

[Clewisiii]

I do not know where I would have found these little crimp on bulb bases terminal ends if it had not been for the listing on YNZ.

[Clewisiii]

Wiring for one of my turn indicator fixtures is done. Now all I need it the chrome.

That original wiring was very dry and brittle.

[Clewisiii]

If someone can educate me on the lower light functions. There are two wires. A blue and white. Do you believe it matters on which side is which when they only go to one bulb.

When I build my first one I will reference back to one I have not taken apart yet to make sure they match. I just want to be educated on the function.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

It does matter which way they go around, as one wire will power the one filament in the globe, and the other wire, the other filament in the globe.

The orientation of the globe in the socket will be guided by the different lengths of the side lugs on the globe.

If they are a different wattage filament, then the lugs will be offset, but if they are the same wattage, then the lugs will be parallel.

It is hard to see if there is an alignment register in the globe holder to locate the terminal block, but there should be one there to stop the insulator from turning when inserting the globe.

Now, back to the tool you purchased, I believe it is the wrong one, as it doesn't have the width to provide the different swaging of the terminal at the one time.

Notice the stepped mandrel?   One side is for the wire crimp, and the adjacent one, albeit it a bit larger, for the insulation.

The problem I have found with the modern terminals, the plated ones, is that they are thicker than the original all-copper ones, and it takes more pressure to complete the crimp.   When I purchased my initial lot years ago, they came in a string, meaning that each one had to be clipped off the "chain", whereas the latest ones are individual.

Bruce.

[6262]

Several sources on the internet recommend this tool as the best one available. In this video he is working with a Packard 56 Series terminal. I need to buy a suitable tool, too. But I wonder if this one is a bit of an overkill or if it actually makes sense. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=-ykp4yHttPM

It does matter which way they go around, as one wire will power the one filament in the globe, and the other wire, the other filament in the globe.

The orientation of the globe in the socket will be guided by the different lengths of the side lugs on the globe.

If they are a different wattage filament, then the lugs will be offset, but if they are the same wattage, then the lugs will be parallel.

It is hard to see if there is an alignment register in the globe holder to locate the terminal block, but there should be one there to stop the insulator from turning when inserting the globe.

Now, back to the tool you purchased, I believe it is the wrong one, as it doesn't have the width to provide the different swaging of the terminal at the one time.

Notice the stepped mandrel?   One side is for the wire crimp, and the adjacent one, albeit it a bit larger, for the insulation.

The problem I have found with the modern terminals, the plated ones, is that they are thicker than the original all-copper ones, and it takes more pressure to complete the crimp.   When I purchased my initial lot years ago, they came in a string, meaning that each one had to be clipped off the "chain", whereas the latest ones are individual.

Bruce.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Mine came in a kit.   Chinese, but not that dear.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

This time able to do a side by side before and after.

It was multiple round of acid cleaning and sandblasting to clean up the rear bracket.

You know it is a lot of work to do this. And if I was charging someone for my services it would not be worth it for how much I may charge.

[Clewisiii]

By the way the light base has a 2 and 3 embossed by the wire holes. The 2 is Blue easy to remember. But the plastic base is not keyed so it can be put in backwards. So I compared to one still assembled.

[Clewisiii]

The original blue and white wires were formed together. I cannot do that so I will need to tape them. Now I just need to order the right tape.

The base of the socket to the wires had a rubber "boot". This was not a separate part but was formed in place on the wire and base. Not saveable and not reusable.

So I will tape it off and brush on black weatherstrip adhesive to build my own boot. Should seal and waterproof nicely.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Maybe glue them together carefully?  If they were fused together might be nice to try and retain that since you're being so detail oriented.

[Clewisiii]

I am going to have to add up and find all the different bulbs for this dash harness. I think there are at least 2-3 styles of bulbs.

I don't mind switching to LED if they are practical. Bright, long lasting, and cooler then incandescent are nice featured to me.

[Clewisiii]

I decided I am going to rebuild this forward headlight harness myself.

It is fairly simple. And I only need a purple, light blue and light brown wire all solid colors. Those should be easy to get. Save myself $400 on this one.

I will still need to buy the Underhood headlight harness. I do not have a complete harness to rebuild that.

[Clewisiii]

Well maybe I have to take that back. I cannot find the Packard 56 90 degree terminal ends I will need for the headlights. I would need ten in total.

I will call YNZ. They do not list them on their website.

[Clewisiii]

I have found some straight versions of the headlight connectors. But I will need to confirm there is clearance in the headlight buckets for that.