What is best way to protect original lacquer paint from UV deterioration

[Rockne Smith]

My 1977 Eldorado has mostly original lacquer paint job.  It has some deterioration from Ultra Violet penetration.  I have been using F11, a wax replacement technology, which is relatively easy to apply and appears to effectively seal the paint from water and other liquids, but does not state it offers any UV protection.  Looking for advice on product(s) that provide superior UV protection (paste/liquid waxes, ceramic, etc.).  Thanks

[Lexi]

This Mother's nano technology product is said to offer UV protection, but to what level I am not sure. Finish lasts longer than wax and appears to do what it advertises. Clay/Lexi

https://www.amazon.ca/Mothers-01024-Ceramic-Spray-Coating/dp/B07K46RD7Y/ref=asc_df_B07K46RD7Y/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335508059984&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7519992397523581273&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000819&hvtargid=pla-655030823744&psc=1

[Mike Josephic CLC #3877]

It's the Ti02 (titanium dioxide) in the Mothers formulation
that may be providing some UV protection.  It's used in
sunscreens, for example.  However, that leaves open
the question how thin a coating is actually left on the
surface and is it enough to actually work.  My guess is,
if the car is going to be in the sun much, it would have
to be reapplied often to really make a difference.

I have a '73 Eldorado in Dynasty Red with original paint.
The finish still looks very good and red is one of the colors
most prone to UV damage.  However, it sat outside for
only about 2 years.  After that it was garaged.




Mike

[fishnjim]

If it's '77 factory paint, I suspect it was "acrylic" lacquer which is better for UV.   Acrylics do not absorb UV so uneffected.   But can transmit to the other compounds.
If it was repainted with straight lacquer, then not much other than cleaning and shooting a UV clear coat.   But if damage, color needs to be re-shot.

The best anti UV is park in the garage.
The UV absorber needs to be incorporated in the coating.  TiO2 may also be for mild abrasive.   We used to put UV absorber in coatings products even acrylics. 

The SiO2 products are supposed to be better than any wax, but they don't last like they say.   Wax on - wax off, is the standard way to protect paint.   It's always worked for me w/ garage.

[Jon S]

I applied Mother's CMX Ceramic coating and it looks fantastic.

[Lexi]

I won't go back to wax now that I have used Mother's CMX. That said, I have found that it should be applied twice a year, (spring then fall). Apply when weather is cool and NOT in direct sunlight. Shake well before and a lot during use. Works well to clean up and re-do spots soiled by bird dirt, bug juice, etc., (which should be removed asap). Just blends in. It will add depth to old paint finishes and camouflage many defects. Agree with previous comment that best UV protection is to park in the garage out of light. Best for interior as well. Clay/Lexi

Edit: See attached shot of same part of my car with (RH side) and without (LH side) CMX.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Is Mother's CMX Ceramic a spray on and wipe away product?  I'm interested in this as my newest purchase is wearing original paint.

[Lexi]

Yes it is Tim. Just spray it on and after a short drying time (about 2 minutes or less) wipe it off. Kinda like using an auto detailer. Seems to be the real deal. For a finish in a raw state, I would do a cut & buff first using a cleaning compound, (but no wax follow up). Or simply do a thorough clay bar clean first. As you can see it made my ancient finish look much more vibrant and even in appearance. Lots of blemishes are covered up, possibly by way of a change in refraction, thus camouflaging many imperfections. When finished, my car's paint looked like you could dive into it and get lost. It looked fantastic. It does not last as long as advertised though, but I feel does a better job than wax. My experience is that it would last a little longer than wax products that I have used, and it is well worth the effort. Clay/Lexi

Edit: Attached is a shot of my car in May 2021, some 8 months after its last CMX treatment. I don't think I had even dusted it off in a while when this photo was taken, but you can still see the reflection of clouds in the sky in my vintage paint (cobalt). Actually there are LOTS of reflections in the car, in which its surface still appeared rather mirror like. That said, car is never stored outside and not subjected to harsh weather. Put in storage for winter also. Still, the finish looks good for the amount of time that had passed and car not fussed with that day.

[dochawk]

The guys at autogeek.com are the experts on this stuff.

They go on about the differences between paint restoration products like we will about a '53 carburetor, or . . .

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

I have no idea the efficacy of any of these modern elixirs for paint and I'm not about to experiment
to find out. I also suspect UV is only one part of the problem; excessive heat being the other. Either of these
issues are exacerbated/lessened by darkness/lightness of color, differences in colors and whether metallic or pastel. 

Light pastels almost always hold up well, white being the most durable. Metallic finishes are inherently weaker due
to the metal flakes creating millions of micropores in the surface resulting in accelerated breakdown of the finish.
Very dark colors, especially black, due to it's absorption of light energy results in excessive heat causing it to fail
in a different manner entirely. Reds are inherently unstable under UV light.

There is only one certain way to protect paint against UV and heat damage and that is to keep
the finish maintained a/k/a moisturized with high quality wax, promptly remove contaminants
such as bird droppings, tree sap, leaves etc and most of all- keep sun exposure to an absolute minimum.