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Rear main seal replacement on 1956

Started by Stevison, September 28, 2023, 01:44:06 PM

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Stevison

Hey folks, my 56 coupe Deville has a leaking rear main seal. The mechanic is telling me but because of the cross X frame, the only way to replace the seal is to pull the engine, as opposed to simply dropping the transmission. This sounds weird to me, but I thought I would check with those who are brighter and better informed. Thanks!

J. Gomez

Henry,

Yes, it would be easier to do the job with the engine out "BUT", there is no need to pull the engine out just to replace the rear main seal even if you go with the old rope style seal. One will need to be very-very careful but it can be done.

You will need to pull the oil pan and loosen the steering link to remove the oil pan, remove the oil pump to gain access to the rear main bearing. If you have the Service Manual you will notice the location for the seal.

I would suggest in installing the new neoprene style main seal versus the old rope style to make the job easier.

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

Cape Cod Fleetwood

How much oil are you losing... It might be cheaper/easier to put a throw away aluminum cookie pan under the car and check your oil level regularly.
There are 2 kinds of cars in the world, Cadillac and everything else....

The Present -1970 Fleetwood Brougham

The Past -
1996 Deville Concours
1987 Sedan De Ville "Commonwealth Edition"
1981 Coupe De Ville (8-6-4)
1976 Sedan De Ville
1975 Sedan De Ville

The Daily Driver and work slave -
2008 GMC Acadia SLT *options/all

Caddy Wizard

In a good many situations, what looks like a rear main seal leak is leaky valve covers.  The oil runs down the block and drips off the back of the oil pan, simulating a rear main seal leak.  Replace the valve cover gaskets first.


The motor does NOT need to be removed to replace the rear main seal.  It takes about a day with the engine in the car, including cleaning things and maybe repainting the oil pan.  There are posts on this Forum about how to do it.  Also, lately some of us have been having trouble getting the new neoprene seal to seal properly.  Some have speculated it is because the seal is precision made, but the channel in the block is not.  To address this, some of us have been "shimming" the outside of the seal to make it fit a little more tightly against the crankshaft journal.  I had to do this recently when a new rear main seal leaked after installation.  I used some thin gasket material and it did the trick. There is a thread about this aspect of the job on this Forum too...
Art Gardner


1955 S60 Fleetwood sedan (now under resto -- has been in paint shop since June 2022!)
1955 S62 Coupe (future show car? 2/3 done)
1958 Eldo Seville (2/3 done)

Jay Friedman

Art, the Caddy Wizard, and I wrote an article with step by step instructions for replacing a rear main seal without removing the motor.  Send an email to jaysfriedman(at)yahoo.com and I'll reply with the article attached.
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."