Recent posts

#1

General Discussion / Re: Wiring

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 11:00:14 AM

James, in this case it going the other direction than you did.  You had a non computer engine into a computer car and kept the computer.  This case its a computer engine into a non computer car.

Air compressor I assume you are referring to the air conditioning compressor?  Top front center of the engine?  Under there is the coolant temp sensor.  Old engine/car should have had one there too, a single wire one that runs the dash light.  Computer engine would expect to have had that plus an additional 2 wire sensor for the computer.   I would transfer the sensor from your old engine to this engine.  The port under the AC and near the distributor base are in the same coolant passage so either or both can be used.  IF there is a sensor sticking out of the passenger side behind the water pump that is also basically the same passage too.

#2

General Discussion / Re: Can't log in to access Sel...

Last post by tcom2027 - Today at 10:16:27 AM

From what I understand, previous Members retained their original Membership Number when they rejoined, but now that Cornerstone has taken over, maybe they were not made aware of this.

Would be nice to retain your old number.  I remember adding that number to your Profile.

Bruce.

Thanks for the explanation Bruce,

It's not a problem, although there is a little OG cache' associated with  the old number,



tony

#3

Technical / Authenticity / Re: '61 Water Pump

Last post by Jon S - Today at 09:43:14 AM

For water pumps, fuel pumps I've used this firm and was always
pleased:
https://arthurgouldrebuilders.parkerspackards.com/

Whatever you do, have your originals rebuilt.  Buying anything
"new" will be Chinese "junk".

Mike

I totally agree. Arthur Gould is the guy.

#4

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Squeaking belts on '61 Dev...

Last post by Jon S - Today at 09:41:11 AM

These notched belts suck and look ugly. I use bar soap on the belt with the engine off. I suspect one of your belts needs a little more tensioning.

#5

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1973 Big Red Eldorado

Last post by James Landi - Today at 08:01:35 AM

"Inoperative Level Ride will not affect ride quality. It only means the car cannot level itself automatically. A pair of manual rear air shocks will accomplish the same thing except air must be manually added/released for the desired trim height depending on weight of trunk contents/rear passengers. Level Ride is completely different from Air Suspension."

I respectfully disagree, unless, the newer models of that generation Eldorados had rear coil springs that better adjusted for nominal height without vacuum actuated comprressed air boost .... the ones I owned had those single rear leaf spring arrangements, and without the air ride, the rear end would bottom out on moderate bumps and seeing anything through the rear view mirror was compromised.  I had one of those leaf spring snap at the axle shackle when the air ride failed (bang!!!), and that rendered the car on a severe list to starboard, as if we were sinking stern first!  Eric, I agree that the work around can work, but as you mentioned it's not a perfect solution.   James 

#6

General Discussion / Re: Wiring

Last post by James Landi - Today at 07:33:57 AM

"To solve the distributor problem just swap the distributor from your old engine.  Let us know if you need instructions on how to do that, there are tricks to make it easier."

Perhaps you didn't read TJ's suggestion... I have direct experience with the distributor swap. It worked for me with a computer managed Cadillac into which I swapped an older model Olds carburetor engine... worked perfectly.  James

#7

General Discussion / Re: Vinyl Top

Last post by James Landi - Today at 07:30:28 AM

 I don't disagree with Bruce, but in my experience, I used many kinds of greasy top dressings on a weekly (weekend) basis, weather permitting. I've had many well used, un garaged Cadillacs with weather faded vinyl, and in my experience, keeping the vinyl "well lubed" extends the life of the vinyl and halts the rust pimples that forms underneath from growing.  Some of the newer Cadillacs had fiberglass roof "shells" that were fastened to the top, with the vinyl glued to the fiberglass, Attempting to keep cancerous rust from the fastener holes with some kind of oily top dressing around the windshield and back window can help in these situations as well. You might not favor  the "Brylcream" look, but it does work to extend the life of the vinyl that has lost its ability to repel water . James

#8

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Pillar Post Weatherstrips ...

Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - Today at 07:23:35 AM

G'day Mika,

I too have found that the reproduction products are not as good as the originals, as if they were, the cars would never have left the production line simply because they couldn't operate successfully.

I have replaced the weatherstrips in my Non-Cadillac rebuild, and have to slam the doors, whereas before, the doors closed nicely, but, I had to replace the parts because they were worn out, split, etc.

When I replaced the door weatherstrips, each time I went to wind the windows down in my '72 Eldorado, the glass would "grab" the rubber, and pull it down into the door.

The only way I could stop this, save completely readjusting the doors was to use a product called Slipicone.   This is a food grade silicone that doesn't leave too much of a residue.  I sprayed the rubber, and during the operation of the glass, wiped off the excess.

When I dissect the original rubber, there is a soft sponge-like rubber inside the slightly thicker, more solid outer layer, allowing the superior compression, whilst allowing for the sliding of the glass.   Reproduction rubber cannot replicate the original compounds/cross-section, even though they can create the actual shape.

They are in it to make money, whereas the factory was in it to sell cars that worked perfectly when they left the production line.

Bruce.

#9

Technical / Authenticity / Pillar Post Weatherstrips prev...

Last post by Finndorado - Today at 07:09:00 AM

Hello Gentlemen !

I wonder if anybody has had the same issue as I do with the front power windows not
going all the way up because it seems that the A pillar post weather strip is too thick..?
and makes the window path too tight in the end. When I look at the window in all up position
and close the door, I can see the pillar rubber pushing the window outwards, maybe too much
(perhaps 4-7mm, hard to tell while "slamming" the door) because I dodn`t know what`s a normal amount.
I had the power motors renewed by a good reputation classic car garage, and he said
that he cannot adjust the windows to work properly even he has tried everything with it, and actually he was
wondering if the A pillar post weather strip rubber is too thick ?
I trust his experience in adjusting thw windows, at least much more than my own.
Otherwise the windows work just fine with speed and power.
All the weather strips are renewed by the former owner of the car and they are in good shape,
but if they are some reproduction model that are no good..?
If so, where could I get decent/good quality ones with the highest probability ?
With the repair man we agreed to adjust the windows so that they are ok otherwise, but I have to
open the door when pulling the window up the last inches.
Silicon I havent tried yet, but that might not be the right way to solve the issue.

Thanks
Mika

#10

General Discussion / Re: Wiring

Last post by Clifton 77 - Today at 07:08:32 AM

It's the wiring that come on the engine. It runs under the air compressor into the block.