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#1

General Discussion / Road trip!

Last post by 35-709 - Today at 09:55:51 PM

Getting Big Red ready to do a weeklong organized road rally (Freedom Road Rally) for stock or modified older cars, starting (this time) in Texarkana, Arkansas.  Leaving Vero Beach, FL this coming Thursday with two other "resto-mods", a '56 Chevy PU and a '39 Chevy PU (all of us members of the local AACA region), and meeting up with another local AACA friend out there in his '49 Chevy Fleetline coupe who is leaving tomorrow to do some other touring on the way. 
~ 2200 miles out and back and another 900 or so on the tour itself.  The kind of touring I enjoy and one of the reasons I built Big Red.  Should bring B.R.'s mileage up to about 37/38,000 since finished.  B.R. has never let me down or stranded, minor glitches now and then, but nothing that ever prevented him from getting me home no matter where we were.

The old boy has been everything I wanted or hoped he would be.  He has driven my wife and me in air conditioned comfort from Florida to the St. Augustine GN, the Boston GN, the Lake George, NY GN and the Washington, DC GN.  Big Red won 2nd place in Modified at the Washington show, not bad for a driver.  He has been to Indianapolis to see my great-grandson and then do the Frog Follies car show up that way (https://frogfollies.org/) on the way home.  Will also be doing the "Cruisin the Coast" rod run (https://cruisinthecoast.com/) next October, gotta do this stuff while I still can.

This will be the third Freedom Road Rally B.R. has been on, first was an Adirondacks tour, last year was Ohio which the organizer is repeating this year.  Missed the Branson, Missouri tour a couple of years ago. You all can check out the Freedom Road Rally at   www.freedomroadrally.com  Probably not too late to get on any of them except possibly the one coming up next week.  For those who like to drive your stock  Cadillacs, or resto-mods, these tours are great fun and learning experiences.

Big Red behind my '73 Caribou, now owned by my sister and brother-in-law, at the beginning of the Adirondack Road Rally.

#2

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1940 Lasalle Carpet

Last post by wheikkila - Today at 09:49:21 PM

When I purchased my 1940 model 52. It was from the second owner. It had 77,000 original miles. The mat was under the seat and scuff plate. I had to remove the scuff plate. So i could fold back the mat to get to the battery. Located under the drives seat.
           Thanks Wayne   

#3

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1975 Eldorado Re-assembly

Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - Today at 08:52:08 PM

On my '72 500, the two bolts with the threads coming out of the hex head are shown in the picture.

From what I can gather with this engine, it was untouched, going on the things that I found whilst stripping it down for rebuilding.

One is two bolts back from the right front, and the other at the rear left end.

It looks like they have never been used, but when I put the engine back together, they went at the rear on both sides.

Bruce.

#4

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1940 Lasalle electrical

Last post by Ben Medlock - Today at 08:51:43 PM

It's a mechanical thermostat. Way back when I started on this car it had been converted to 12v but thought I had it all converted back. The motor I put back in it was not the one that came out. Is it possible I have a 12v generator?

#5

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1940 Lasalle electrical

Last post by Jay Friedman - Today at 08:18:12 PM

A 1940 Lasalle should not have 12 volts showing when the engine is revved up, nor 8.7 volts at idle. It's a 6 volt system and might show 7 or 7.5 volts when the engine is revved up and the battery is fully charged. Has it been converted to a 12 volt system?

The stock temp gauge is electrical and I think it works the same way as a voltmeter.  That might explain what you are seeing.  Something not right here.

Question: is the modern temp gauge you have installed right next to the sending unit mechanical or electrical?

#6

For Sale - Parts / 1959 1960 Complete Reverse Clu...

Last post by Doug Scarrow - Today at 07:33:28 PM

Complete 1959 1960 Cadillac reverse housing with good piston and internal gear matched . These parts are NOT available new or aftermarket any more. The housing part number is 8618748. Piston # is 8629239 , Reverse Gear number is 8618737. I recommend replacing the lip seals on the piston and these parts will offer many years of service. I have lots of Jetaway Hydramatic hard parts just contact me 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266789011863

#7

Technical / Authenticity / Re: A.I.R. Diverter Valve, 197...

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 07:05:09 PM

First thing to usually fail on these systems is the check valve which is that adapter dodad on the manifold crossover pipe that goes from the threads to the nipple.  Its a check valve to prevent exhaust from backflowing into the AIR system. These were somewhat universal so they should still be available today. Easy to check pull the hose/cap off and see if exhaust comes out with the engine running. 

When the valve fails the hot corrosive exhaust gets into the dirverter valve and kills it while also flowing all the way into the pump where it kills the bearings which then stop the pulley at which point you know there is a problem because you also loose the fan, waterpump, and alternator.  You then find out that apparently aftermarket never made the valve assemblies and GM hasn't made them for eons.

Pump is pumping air any time its turning.  Normal operation the air is being sent into the heads and injected just after the valves into the exhaust stream to do its magic. I think there are a few situations the air gets diverted to that little muffler thing on the valve assembly. The main one is deceleration. 

With a carb the mixture goes very rich when the throttle closes so a lot of unburnt fuel ends up in the exhaust.  IF the air is still being injected at this time at a minimum you get some popping and gurgling but if you are unlucky and maybe have other issues going on you can end up literally blowing  the muffler and exhaust system up and off the car. 

I don't remember what position the valve goes to with no vacuum signal.  I believe when they get burnt up they end up sending most of the air to the heads.

What happens when you cap it?  I guess you are breaking the law and have to check that box when you transfer the title that says the emissions system has been tampered with or modified but unlike cars with computers you don't end up with burnt exhaust valves and stuck rings from running lean and its less likely that your muffler is going to explode.   

#8

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1975 Eldorado Re-assembly

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 06:47:35 PM

Its been a while and the memory aint what it used to be but I think I just did a little RTV at the corners of the rubber gasket and the rest didn't get anything.  Around the intake ports has a little bead rolled into the metal?  That that basically gets crushed to form fit to any irregularities.

#9

Technical / Authenticity / Re: New Display Controller for...

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 06:38:58 PM

Nice work.  Are you having to drive the individual segments or feeding some sort of digital or analog signal to the display?  Looks like there are enough wires that the switches must be discrete.   With that music you need a version to fit a 67 Barris custom, at least that is the car I think about when I hear that music, way cooler than the later cars.

Have you had to figure out blower control modules yet?  I was thinking if I could figure out what the head is sending for a signal a pico adrduino could read it and operate relays through old school resistors.  Seems like there would be a small market for such a thing kinda like you are doing here from just a programmed board and instructions to maybe a full kit with relays and resistors.     

#10

Technical / Authenticity / 1940 Lasalle electrical

Last post by Ben Medlock - Today at 05:59:56 PM

Getting this car on the road finally and finding an issue with the temp gauge. Its pegging out hot but I know its not because I have a modern temp gauge installed right next to the cars sending unit. I've noticed the gauge rises when the engine is reved then drops back at an idle. Also noticed when I turn on lights that the temp gauge drops. Checked the generator with amp meter and it shows around 8.7 at an idle then jumps to 12 when the engine is reved up. I'm thinking voltage regulator but looking for another opinion before buying another voltage regulator.

Thoughts and advice is appreciated.

Thanks