Wondering if I did this right Timing mark 1960

[60eldo]

  So seems my harmonic balancer slipped. Trying now to find top dead center and mark it. So I pulled #1 plug got it to comp stroke and waited til piston came all the way up. When it did I marked the balancer as you can see at the pointer. Now Im wondering if I remove the cap will the rotor be pointing to the #1 plug wire>? Thanks guys,,,So I just removed the cap and ok the rotor goes clockwise, so the rotor is about 1-2 inches just before the #1 wire,,,should I move the #1 wire over to match the rotor

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Jon,

The only way to get the exact TDC is to rotate the crankshaft till the piston rises upwards and touches a mechanical stop that stops the piston from going any further, mark the harmonic balancer, then wind the crankshaft tin the opposite direction till the piston stops at the mechanical stop, and mark the harmonic balancer again.

Now, divide these two spots in half, and the spot is the TDC.

I made my own Piston TDC locator using an old spark plug, and threaded an old bolt down the centre.   

The best way is to manually rotate the crankshaft with all spark plugs out, and use a plastic rod for the initial "feel", then insert the tool.

Having the spark plugs out makes turning the crankshaft a lot easier, plus, don't rely on the distributor for true location, as this will allow for timing chain stretch, and won't provide what you want to know, and that is true TDC.

Bruce.

[V63]

I guess my method is a little different ? I thread in a compression gauge and turn the engine by hand until I see any pressure movement As initiating the compression stroke. Then I remove gauge and put a screwdriver into the hole and watch as the piston pushes it out. And watch again as it starts to go down. Then back it up to highest point. That's TDC enough to figure out #1 on distributor.

[Daryl Chesterman]

Jon, you have the right idea, but the timing will be off quite a bit due to how many degrees you can turn the crank with the piston at what is perceived as Top Dead Center (TDC).  There is a tool that will help you find TDC, but you would be better off to purchase a new or reconditioned harmonic balancer, as the outer ring of the balancer will only get looser and possibly come off—with disastrous results!  If you are insistent on using your existing balancer this is the tool you need to establish TDC accurately.  Your method could get you 5-10 degrees off.

     https://www.ebay.com/itm/283919060405?epid=1940079593&hash=item421ae50db5:g:LjsAAOSwPMFgiEyP


Daryl Chesterman

Edit:  Bruce beat me to it, but you can see what the tool looks like.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Daryl,

That is virtually the same as I made.   But mine was cheaper.

Bruce.

[fishnjim]

If you didn't get the balancer serviced, it'll happen again.   There are places that rebuild balancers, such as Steele Rubber, etc.
If you can locate a good spare or someone that has one, then measure the degrees from the keyway where the markings should be and you'll know how far out if is.   There's probably documentation somewhere but unknown to me.   The rebuilders must have that info for rebuild to put in the proper location.

I assume your trying to get the timing mark back on the indicator.
You can clock the distributor, if needed, or back it off one tooth.  '60 would have the the door cap so access is an issue unless you're running EI.   
Timing is relative, firing order is fixed.   

[60eldo]

  That sounds good as I have 2 spares but I never thought of this, its a great idea. So if the 2 spares are the same and mine is different, I can just use one of the spares, so when looking at one of the spares here the notch or key is directly at 0 mark, is that right? so lets see if I get this, where ever the notch is. Thats zero?,,thanks

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Pretty much, as I have noticed this alignment on numerous crankshafts.

BUT, I always check.

Bruce.

[bcroe]

I have resorted to making the mark on something other than
the harmonic balancer.  I actually did have one come off,
surprisingly just lay against the engine till I found it. 

Lately I have changed out all the balancers with FluiDampers,
which contain silicon but no rubber.  Easy to do when doing the
timing chain set change out.  But they are expensive, and I
move them onto the latest engine when changing.  My tools
can do this easily, without removing much else except the belts. 

Bruce Roe