So my choices are a 1965 Eldorado conv in great shape at a decent price in range with a the books, yes it could be better, but no rust, drives great, good mrchanics, everything is there, decent paint and one day I will "do it up", but a great nice once in a while driver right now. Or I can by a low mileage 1976 Eldo and put a bunch of miles on it andd end up with 1976, non descript Eldo with over a 100,000 miles and have to redo that. I'm thinking get the 65, any thoughts?
Given a choice, I'll always take any car built before 1973. Easier to work on and more personality.
Same here, '73 would be about my limit. Unless I found a really nice Cadillac Mirage pickup ('75 - '76).
I have a 76 Eldo convertible that I love. I have other cars too, but my black 76 is my favorite.
However, given that choice, I would look at the production figures. Cadillac made 14,000 76 Eldorado convertibles. I don't know the 65 Eldorado production, but it's got to be way less.
There will always be 76's around to buy, but not many nice 65's come up, especially an Eldorado.
Rear drive, ease of repair, are important factors, but it comes down to what you like, because they are totally different cars. The way they feel, drive, and look, it's an apples and oranges comparison for sure.
Good luck
Brian
PS... You could always buy 'em both... >:D
1965 Eldorado production was 2,125 units.
I'd agree that's "way less"
Personally, I would be going for the earlier one.
But, I own a '72 Eldorado Convertible, and always wanted that year above any later than that, but that is my preference.
Rear Wheel Drive is easier, and cheaper to repair, whereas the Front Wheel Drive is so "modern", but '76, with its' low compression, and so many of them made, there should be parts for them for a long time.
Bruce. >:D
I'd go with the '65, too.
I would go with the more rare car just to be different. Any general car show you go to will have at least one 76 convert. Not only did they build more of those but I think more have survived than typical models. That is also likely going to be the first model to be fully covered by reproduction parts. As of last fall my local store still had all the typical wear parts in stock. I imagine that parts for the 65 are going to be a bit harder to come by and most likely mail order. The FWD stuff is not a big deal to deal with, its pretty reliable and really not that unusual to work on. The 65 is going to want premium fuel, the 76 shouldnt care. 76 disc brakes and dual res master cylinder. 65 is going to be drums with a single mc. 76 will have am/fm 8 track and 4 speakers.
Just curious why some of you pick 73 as a break point for easy to work on? I own several cars in that era and cant think of any change that year that makes them worse to work on. Body wise that was the first for the impact bumpers which can be a pain. Most of the 77s got to be a pain to work on with the engine pushed tighter to the firewall. The more complex emissions started showing up in 67 so pretty much every year after that they seemed to add a device or two with a mile of vacuum hose for each. Its it the HEI that scares people? The first electronic part that is required for the car to drive?
Just remember Dud, the 76 has HEI ignition, no points, and requires only regular unleaded gas and a sharper looking car. (TO EACH HIS OWN!). The 65 with its points and leaded gas requirement would drive me up a wall. I had enough with cars with points years ago. The engine layout on the 76 carb engine is a much better layout to work on too. Get the car that appeals to you the most. Just some thoughts!. EAM
Thank you all for your thoughts. Although I have had a 76 and find the look beautiful I have always longed for a 66 and the 65 looks almost exact. My Dad had 66 DeVille Convertible in the dark cherry color with off white interior, I have always wanted to reproduce that look. At this moment the 65 is being examined by a professional. If all checks out I am going with the 65 Eldo. Heck i can always trade it for a nice, reliable 76. Thanks again, nice to know y' all are out there.
Quote from: Dudley B. Ruffalo on July 14, 2009, 02:27:21 PM
My Dad had 66 DeVille Convertible...
That's the same thing that started my search, my dad had a black over white mid-to-late '60s de Ville... here's a shot of mine (it's a '66 Eldorado). I like the older interiors. Any more info on the car your considering? Options? Just nosey.
Just edited this to add comments about EAM's post; I changed the distributor on my car to a "pointless" or "solid state" distributor. I've heard it referred to both ways, maybe called "solid state" because it isn't "pointless" to have it ;-) The layout of the older car is pretty easy for working on most anything, it's the layout of my old fat body that's difficult! Probably the only hindrance for my carb is the cruise control, but not a big deal.
Leaded gas is really a non-issue. Engines run fine on unleaded with no problems to the valve seats - that is "myth" that never dies. There may be slightly more wear to the valve seats than a modern car but you will never realize it. When it comes time to rebuild the engine, put in hardened seats if it makes you sleep easier. I've personally put around 50,000 miles on my '56 engine with unleaded gas and no addititive. No unusual wear to the valve seats can be found.
Points are not really an issue for me. In fact they're inherently more reliable than HEI. You can always jigger with them in an emergency to get them working if need be.
HEI is an excellent system and I have no real problem with it in cars I've owned. It can cease working without warning, however - unlike points.
Just keep everything in good order with either car and you won't have trouble. Carry a spare ignition module or set of points with you just to be on the safe side.
I personally draw the line at around 72/73 for cars in general. Ford pretty much changed it's entire model line/design in 73. GM started changing a lot of their body styles around that time as well.
Cars didn't have catylitic converters then either (trucks lasted until 1979)
As was previously mentioned, the earlier cars are a lot easier and simpler to work on. There's also less plastic crap to break.
Quote from: Otto Skorzeny on July 14, 2009, 03:09:23 PM
.......... There's also less plastic crap to break.
Exactly. Real Steel versus Partial Steel.
The trouble with the later vehicles is the huge use of Plastic, and once this product cracks, breaks, and generally falls to pieces, it is difficult to repair, or replace. One only has to look at the front and rear "Fillers" and the replacements are so poorly constructed and they have to be painted when being replaced.
Not sure how much plastic there is in a 1965 vehicle, but a lot less, that's for sure.
Bruce. >:D
On a 1965 you will never have to replace the expensive bumper fillers on the 76 Eldorado.
I am doing them on 2 cars right now.
What a pain...
Brian
Chris, Your 66 Eldo is truly pretty. The one I am looking at is a bench seat 65 Eldo convertible with power everything, including power vent windows, factory a/c, original condition, except recovered seats, waitng on the report from the expert on condition. It does not appear to have the wood trim of the 66 Eldo. I intend to keep it total stock except to recreate my dad's 66 color sheme. I will leave to my heirs to make it pure again.
The expert came back and said the car drives better than he remembers they drove. The frame is solid, the mechanics are great, the interior is beautiful but there is, his words, "200 lbs. of undercoating", he is saying you just don't know what is under there. He says all the frame to body is great, no rust in the trunk, engine area, bumpers, bright work good, all good, just that one glitch. Now as a card carrying CLC member the motto should be the survival of that car. I am missing a bargain here? The seller, a classic car daeler with an excellent reputation, could make a deal, We fnd out exactly what is wrong with the car and cost to fix and adjust price. He sells the car, provides work for a body and a/c shop he probably uses all the time and sells the car. He gives a little, I pay a little, bac kand forth. If I am just fixing sheet metal underneath, is that so bad, as long as the cost is not huge? Sombody is going to it and have a nice car, Any thoughts?
Cars of that era always seem to have lots of undercoating. If everything else checks out and there's no reason to suspect that it was applied recently to hide rust, then I wouldn't worry about it.
Poke around under there and look for bubbles and soft spots but if the fender wells and rockers aren't rusted, there's no reason to think the frame will be.
Have you already found your 65? If not we may have one for sell. Orig owner, mint condition, low miles!