After driving home from the gas station I smelled something hot when I put the 1971 eldorado away. The driverside hubcap was hot to the touch, passenger side was cool. Can I assume that is a frozen caliper that needs replaced or can this be something else? Also, If it is a caliper it looks like when I remove the brake hose, I will be twisting the hose as I remove the nut. Do both sides of the hose have to be disconnected to replace the caliper or will the nut turn independently of the hose? Thanks in advance.
Before you jump in, here is a way to test the caliper. I am assuming this is on the front.
Try to pry on the pads to see if they retract and push the piston back in.
If they won't move back in, open the bleeder and try again. If they move back, allowing the piston to retract, you may have a bad hose.
The hoses can break down and get gooey inside. The master cylinder pushes the brake fluid to the caliper with a lot of force. There is very little pressure pushing back after you release the brake pedal. If the hoses are clogged inside, they form a type of one way valve, keeping residual pressure in the line, and making the brakes drag.
If that's your problem, you will need to replace the hose, and you should do both sides, even if the other one looks fine.
To remove the hose, you don't release it from the caliper first. Look at where it joins the metal line, and break it apart there first. Always use the proper flare nut wrenches to avoid rounding the nut. You may also have to remove a retainer holding the hose to the bottom ball joint mount.
You will need to bleed the system when you are done. If you have any hesitation about doing this, take it to a qualified mechanic. All of the parts should be available at a NAPA or similar auto parts retailer.
Good Luck,
Brian
I agree, I think it is the hose and not the caliper.
I just had the same issue after replacing the brake pads, I replaced both hoses although it was "only" the right front wheel that was affected and that solved the issue.
/Rikard
I agree it is probably the hose or hoses.....I had a similar issue......Here is a tip: When testing the hoses , make sure to turn the steering from lock to lock, the problem hose may only become apparent when it is kinked. I had a brake guy tell me there was nothing wrong with my brakes...they only failed to release when the steering was turned and of course he had the wheels straight while up on the hoist.
The hose, definitely. Common thing on the big Eldos, and for some reason, the driver's side hose is more prone to failure than the passenger side
Thanks guys, I ordered a new hose as well. While I'm doing it I think I will replace the hose and caliper. If all goes well. I'll do the other side. If not I'll have it done by someone else. While I'm waiting for parts I have been soaking the upper connection with PB blaster. The upper steel hose fitting looks awful rusty. I have a bad feeling there.
One odd thing about the Eldo's is there is a metal clip under the bolt for the upper ball joint that holds the hose. The new hose should come with a odd metal crimp fairly close to the caliper end. This is where the clip holds onto the hose. With the factory ball joints there is just enough room to squeeze the nut out and get the clip off the stud to install it on the new hose. You will have to press it into the CV boot and hold it there while you rotate the hub slightly to get it out of the way. Some of the aftermarket studs are a bit longer and you dont have the room to get the nuts off without popping the stud loose from the knuckle. In some cases I have ended up cutting the old hose off in the clip and using zip ties or wire to hold the hose in place because there was not time or the proper tools to get it done right at the time.
A trick for getting the hose to steel line apart is use a propane torch to heat the nut on the steel side. Add some penetrating oil (which will burn off so beware of that) and rock the nut back and fourth. Eventually it will work loose without twisting off the line. With propane you usually dont have to worry about it getting too hot. Another thing to beware of is rubber line, if its older it could have pockets of fluid in it and it could explode. I have never had that happen with propane but it for sure can happen with oxy acetylene so take the proper precautions.
Well, you guys are brilliant! I took the car to my mechanic with a caliper from Napa and a brake hose from Autozone(don't ask). My mechanic calls and says the brake hose is too short but he put the caliper on and told me to take it home until I get the right hose(I live about 3 miles from the shop). I get it home and the brakes are very warm but not hot. The other side are practically cool. Must be the hose. Now, where do you guys get a brake hose from? I'll try Napa unless you have a better choice.
One other thing. My mechanic says the battery is dead as he had to jump it to get it in the garage and out again. I had that problem last year and think it is a bad ground because the battery reads 12.4 volts but nothing electrical works. I jump it and drive it home and at 50 mph it quits like I turned the key off. Won't start. I jump it again to get it home. Turn it off and try to start it; nothing. I remove the ground cable attached to the frame, wire brush the area, reinstall and it fires right up. Will a bad ground cause the car to shut off like I turned the key off or coincidence that after I cleaned the contact to the frame it started instantly?
At first glance the replacement hoses for the eldo's do appear to be too short. I remember going through that my first time. After 3 different brands I finally took the old one off for comparison and found they did work.
If messing with the battery gets it running again then I would keep working on and checking the cables and connections in that area. The + lead runs down to the starter. Under the same bolt on the starter is another lug that goes to 3 smaller wires that then feed power to the key, fuse box, and headlight switch. I believe on the eldo the ground strap between the engine and frame is also down by the starter.
thanks everyone i read this and was going though the same thing so i ordered and replaced the hoses,calipers rotors and pads and brake line all i need to do now is bleed the brakes do i need the car running while doing this? how long does it take to pump brake fluid back in these parts? thanks Jessie
I would highly suggest these stainless lines
http://stores.ebay.com/Brake-Hoses-Unlimited__W0QQ_sidZ61203586?_nkw=eldorado+stainless&submit=Search
TED
G'day Jessie,
You don't need the engine running to bleed the brakes. And, as the car will be up on jack stands, so that you can access all four points of the braking system, I wouldn't want the engine running whilst I was under any vehicle.
Start at the furthest away point from the Master Cylinder first, and work your way to the closest point.
Bruce. >:D
PS. I just sent you an email.
Jessie, Recently had the same problem on my 75 Eldo. Decided to replace the master cylinder in addition to the calipers,hoses,and wheel cylnders. Glad that I did. When I pulled the master cylinder out it was full of crud and I wondered how the brakes ever worked at all. Incidently my rear wheel cylinders were also frozen and probably hadn't worked in years although the ar always stopped O.K. Now that everything has been replaced and flushed out the car stops better than ever. Herb
thanks all and it seems well i had already did the rear brakes about 4000 miles ago and i agree the stainless lines/hoses would be a good upgrade however i had already ordered and put the new ones on but i might order them for future use thanks again