Any best practices out there for the replacement of the upper and lower ball joints and Control Arm Shafts on the 59? I've heard that must use a pickle fork and that it's not needed.......I've heard that you must must must have a spreader tool for the "A" arms and I've that you don't need it........just looking to be prepared before I take things apart to clean and paint things up.......
Thanks in advance for the advice......and lessons learned.
I used a pickle fork for the Ball Joints and did not need a spreader for the A arms on my 59.
There is another method that can be used instead of a pickle fork, using 2 hammers. I have seen it done, but not done it myself. If I remember correctly, you place a hammer on one side of the spindle opposite the ball joint shaft, and then strike the spindle on the other side with another hammer. Don't quote me on that, its been a while since I saw it done.
T Lewis
A pickle fork is a good tool, It will be difficult without one, but I have changed out a few ball joints w/o one. Applying heat heat to the casting will make it expand very slightly, hopefully enough to allow it to break free with hammer blows. Good Luck!!!
i pickle fork can very easily damage the ball joint as you shock load the joint when you hammer it in
if you are taking it apart to replace the joint,then no worry
also the boot is often damaged too
heat too can damage the joint
and can weaken the metal if not careful
i rarely use anything but a hammer to separate a ball joint, a good size ball pien that i can swick hard
i place a good blow to the spindle close by where the stud goes into it
usually after a good whack or two, the ball joint is loose
i always leave the nut on a couple threads in case i miss and hit the threads
the nut also stops the spindle from falling out when the joint pops
like any other repair,a little common sense and thought and you will succeed
I use the hammer method all the time.
The secret is to use the largest hammer, as in a sledge hammer as the anvil, and then the next biggest ballpein that you can get a good swing at, without hurting yourself, to strike the ball joint on the opposite side to the "anvil". A Claw Hammer is too dangerous.
Make sure you undo the nut to about 3 threads remaining, and this will stop things getting out of hand when the taper comes loose.
What you are doing is applying a small shock to split the taper joint's grip.
Bruce. >:D
What about a balljoint separator?
Do they harm the joint or boot?
Something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015PN010/ref=s9_simh_gw_p263_d0_g263_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1JC0TECANZJAWMGQMBRD&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846
I’ve used one of those on my 68 ELDO. I can not get a pickle fork in far enough to do the job right. But I did have to widen the opening a little to slide it into place.
Awesome advice team!!!! I got a pickle fork and it worked great. Glad I removed the ball joints as they were worn......only problem now is that I have the tops off and the top a-arms.....the bottoms can be seen and are worn too.....looks like this is going to spread to becoming a full front end suspension removal, sandblasting, and replacement....."WHILE WE ARE AT IT...."
Jeff & Noah