I have a 61 Cadillac with Autronic Eye. Headlights are not working at all.
I took out the switch and could see with a meter that the switch was not working properly.
I replaced the switch with a new one that I had here and metered it to make sure that it had continuity from the power in to some of the other terminals when the switch was pulled out in first and second position.
i removed the kick panel and saw that the wiring in and out of the Autronic unit had similar wiring so i unplugged it from the foot dimmer switch and plugged the wire directly into the dimmer switch.
Seems like I have power to the switch, but nothing going to the 3 prong connector that goes into the dimmer.
Is there a breaker somewhere I am missing. I didn't see one and i don't have a 61 manual.
Anyone have a diagram?
Thanks,
Brian
Bypassing the autronic box should get you direct power, so it sounds like something else.
On the side of the headlight switch, there is what looks like a metal bar. That is a bimetallic circuit breaker. You'll see a round contact that it touches. If too much current heats it up, it will warp enough to cut the current off, until it cools and bends back into shape. Some people mention lights that cycle on and off - this is a symptom of the strip doing its job - but also indicates a short somewhere. If yours is defective, it will cut the current permanently. Thing is, you should have lights for a little while, until the short overheats the strip and causes it to cut off.
I can scan and send a wiring diagram tomorrow (scanner is at work).
Jim
Jim,
Thanks for the quick response.
The bi-metal breaker on the original switch must have been worn out. I tried to clean the point-like area but it was not conducting from the terminal, through the "points" to the bus bar. I replaced it with another switch i had mixed in with some 60 parts. It's exactly the same switch.
This one has continuity through the points and onto the bus bar. No continuity to the other terminals unless you pull the switch to the first and second position, so it seems like a good switch.
I installed it, plugged it back in, but no power coming down to the three way connector for the dimmer.
The connector looks a little burnt too, so there may be a problem elsewhere.
Thanks,
Brian
Check to make sure that the long plastic connector from the headlight wiring harness is plugged into the switch correctly. The rearmost "plug" will not connect to the switch - it will hang out past the end. The second to the rear plug will have the white with black strip wire coming from it. That one should line up with the rearmost (5th) connector on the switch.
Gotta run now, but I'll keep working on this....
Jim
Hmmm... That's not the way I plugged it in. I will check this later tonight.
THANKS for the specific info!
Brian
Brian,
I am sending the scans of the wiring diagram to your email address. They are big files and from a "strange" email source, so your spam-blocker may prevent them from getting to you.
Jim
Like Jim Mentioned, make sure that the switch is plugged in correctly. Otherwise you would have nothing, another suggestion is to bypass the original circuit breaker. It becomes corroded where the strip gets staked to the brass terminal causing all sorts of arcing. I removed the original circuit breaker and soldered on two 10 gauge pigtails and connected them to a 20amp external circuit breaker. See photos. It isnt pretty, but I have never had the switch even get warm anymore and the lights always work.
That's a clever idea.
I put in a new switch that i had, but I am sure it's NOT plugged in the way Jim described. The car is sitting in my garage with the battery disconnected right now. I'll plug it in as described and see what happens.
Thanks,
Brian