Looking for some suggestions on how to further pursue the following problem:
I have a 1960 Series 62 4 window flat top. After the car sits from a few days to a week, and you turn the ignition key, the starter keeps turning even after turning it back to the off position. I must leave the car and pull the negative battery cable to stop this sticky situation.
It takes about three tries before it starts and stops normally. Once I am past this initial start, the car can be started normally all day and night and maybe the next few days normally, it is just after a prolong sit.
I have replaced the starter and solenoid, as well as, the battery. The mechanic thought the fly wheel had some rough teeth (damage from previous starter) so filed each tooth individually thinking it was prohibiting the starter plunger from releasing, problem still persists.
Any thoughts?
Rick,
Could it be the ignition switch?
Brian
Quote from: 76eldo on January 22, 2013, 10:47:59 PM
Rick,
Could it be the ignition switch?
Brian
Sounds like a good possibility. Also the plug/harness connector at the ign sw. was famous for melting, I have fixed few like that in my shop.
Rick, I have seen this before, on other GM makes using the same starter/solenoid combo. All were caused by the shift fork on the starter drive being worn/gummed up, not allowing the solenoid plunger to release.
Since you have replaced these items, I would think the only other cause is wiring, ignition switch (most probable) or a possible short to power in the wiring.
T Lewis
Curly:
Thanks, but why only after prolonged periods of inactivity? Why not all the time? A short is a short? The mechanic says he tested the wiring and found no shorts. Really a frustrating situation.
Rick,
How does the key switch feel when you turn the key to the start position? Is it sticking?
A short is not a short. You could have some cracked insulation and it doesn't always happen.
I work with electronics and wiring for a living and the intermittent problems are the hardest to find.
If you are ruling out the starter/solenoid, then wiring or the keyswitch is all that's left.
Some stuff you need to diagnose slowly and methodically and over the web all you can get are suggestions.
Brian
X2, 76 Eldo is right on with his suggestions. A wire with worn insulation may only short under certain conditions.
T Lewis
Thank you Brian....the ignition switch does not stick at all...but your advice on the insulation is well noted. I will go down that road next.
What is the mechanical arrangement of the switch? Have a tractor that will do that. The lock has a blade that engages the switch portion and the spring is in the key part so after 40 some years of wear in those slots the key returning to the run position is not quite enough to pop the switch out of start. In my case its easy since its a diesel that does not need the key on to run I just flip the key to off then back to run. On my rig the only thing key on does is lets the alternator charge so its not been worth my time to see if I can get new parts or rig a fix for the existing ones.