So I'm looking to make more a daily driver vintage Cadillac. I don't have to drive far for work so gas is not really an issue. There is a 1978 Coupe Deville near me for $400 I've looked at the car and there is no rot in the body besides a small quarter sized spot on driver side rear quarter where some paint peeled. It hasn't been driven much in 5 years and not at all for the last year. He has a replacement passenger side rear bumper fill but I would need a new center piece and driver side filler.
The big thing is the mechanical disrepair the car is it. It runs but not well car has at least 119,000 miles and the brakes need immediate attention. Will need new tires as well. The trans needs pulled for a new shaft seal and pump seal. His dad owned it then he got it, which would make me the first owner outside the family. The interior needs work also
. But my question is if I put money in getting everything fixed is there any value to this car in the end? Do all the mechanicals and get the rear filler pieces done then paint the car. What might it be worth in the end? Or should I just buy it for a driver and be done with it?
Lastly are there any pros and cons with this year specifically besides the rear plastic always going to pieces? I know a decent amount about 472/500s but not a lot about the 425 in this car.
Hello Ryan,
RWD 425 powered Cadillacs from 1977-1979 are one of the most bulletproof Cadillacs ever made IMHO. Their drivelines are exceptionally durable and while their factory fit & finish and the quality of interior materials wasn't exactly the best, they're still a very good machine with excellent overall reliability. Coupe deVilles are very pretty in this period.
That said, I would not recommend getting involved with it. Outstanding low mileage originals can be had for $5K to $10K all day long needing very little to no restoration at all. You could theoretically spend twice that getting this car all sorted and it will never be the car an unmolested, preserved original is, no matter what you do.
Save your nickels and buy a good one to start. It'll not only be an infinitely better car, but far cheaper in the long run.
I think you take some time you can find a much cleaner one and come out with a better car for less money. Interior stuff is not reproduced for this car and getting custom stuff done is not cheap. Mechanical stuff is easy to deal with, stuff like tires, seals, and brakes will likely have to be dealt with on any car you buy.
The 425 was basically a 472 with a smaller bore. I believe they went to the thin wall castings like they did on other engines at the time. It was a single plane intake. Oil pump angled the filter closer to the crank pulley. Different head chamber size. Other than those changes it was the same engine including the nylon covered cam sprocket.
78 was the change from the vacuum to electric air ride compressor. Was also the change to the optical sensor in the speedo head for cruise control. 78's always seem to have the headliner coming down. Also seem to have the heater fan relay overheat. Steering wheels and horn pads seem to age worse than other years. Had issues with horn contacts in the wheel.
I'd be curious to see or hear more about it. One bad spot in the paint could be touched up and then the rest could be detailed. The body fillers are commonly problematic and you see otherwise perfect models with cracked fillers. Tires, dropping trans, brake job, and tune up are going to offset the cheap buy in price especially if you're not doing the work yourself. How are the window seals, power windows, a/c, power seats, etc? If it's only problems are what you mentioned, then it could be made into a nice driver for relatively cheap. That saves a nicer $5-10k car getting driven down or this car being used a lowrider, derby car, or parts car.
The interior with a thorough cleaning and a few things would be presentable besides a hanging headliner and a broken power window switch panel on the driver side. It's not perfect but it's not something you don't want to sit in either. Seat covers have been on the car most of its life so the seats look pretty good from what I can see.
The paint has surface rust and that's about it. The one little spot is kind of like "Severe surface rust" If that describes it. I really wouldn't be afraid to paint this car black with only light amounts of body work.
Besides these few things and the mechanical stuff the only other missing things are a few emblems. Right now the hoods a little tricky to open and the door handle button on the drivers side is a little loose but overall its the clean body that has me so interested. There isn't even any rot in the lower front fenders as far as I could see.
One of the best cars made by Cadillac.
In this case I would save your money and buy a nice one.
Roy
Can I really go wrong for a $400 intro price?
As said many times, "Nothing more expensive than a cheap Cadillac" (or whatever classic car you are interested in)
Ryan,
Get a big envelope and put the 400 inside of it.
On the front of it write down all the stuff that's wrong with it, and start pricing it.
Add 500 for boo boo's on your guesses too.
That way you will see just what that parts car will cost you.
I have seen this one drop in price all winter. If he still had it, you probably could get it for less money than the one your talking about all fixed up.
Take it from the old f@rts. Save your money.
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/3642460301.html Wisconsin-ROAD TRIP....ha
I see what you're saying I just try to keep the hobby on the cheaper side. I'm no tightwad I just have that car guy thing where i tend to gravitate towards the cheap and neglected. I was just looking for a driver where I wouldn't be out a boatload of cash that would cruise me around in style. Ill just stick the $400 in my 67.
Ryan,
Here's a thought...
In the metro Phila area you can easily get $400.00 for a junk car, especially a big Cadillac.
For a $400.00 investment, you can buy the car, fool around with it, and if it turns out to be in need of more work than the car is worth, you can take off any good parts and save them for future use, or ebay them, and junk the car and get your $400.00 back.
If you have the space and the time it may be a worthwhile thing for you.
I'd rather see the car on the road, but they all can't be saved, and at least some good parts can be salvaged.
Brian
Quote from: RyanBurman on April 01, 2013, 05:25:28 PM
Can I really go wrong for a $400 intro price?
The trouble is it won't
stay at $400 for long. As you start going through the car and then you think you're all done at $2,500 chances are all kinds of bugs will start appearing as you begin using a vehicle that's been in a coma. First, you'll think you're done for $2,500, then comes the odd repair of $350 another at $275, $125- nickel and diming you to death until you've passed the point of no return and have to keep spending in order to recoup your total investment. Usually it all ends in tears with a huge total loss.
I've seen it happen dozens of times- you
can lose far more than what you paid. Unless you're buying the car strictly for parts-harvesting only and with no intention of spending a nickel on it, I wouldn't touch it. Too many good examples around for relatively little money.
As someone who's been there- believe me when I tell you- the most expensive, money-losing car is usually the one that was the cheapest to start. And chances are you'll despise it after everything it put you through.
My father used to say: "A junkyard Corvette cost more than a new one in the showroom". He was 110% right.
Sounds like a fun project. A solid body and running drivetrain are two big plusses. As others have said, though, it's the little things that can eat you up. As long as you can enjoy the car while you fix the little niggling problems will go a long way keeping the car as a fun hobby ride and not that 'big hole in the driveway you pour money into'.
I'd do it, but I don't really look at resale value when I buy an old car. If I did, I'd have a nice big _empty_ shop. I've been lucky enough to actually make money off of most cars I've sold, but the selling part is rare for me.
Get it, and save a nice old car from the crusher. Drive it, fix the things that get in the way of your pleasure, and if the car starts to show some appreciating value, spend the big bucks on new paint, uhpolstery, and things that will really improve it's value. But that's just me.
I just wanted something kind of cheap to cruise while I do the major work to my 67. Then when thats done have something that wouldn't be hard to sell or something to possibly consider as the next project. Only things not mechanical I would fix would be the power window switch on the drivers side and get the plastic extension for the driver side and the bumper to body filler.
Quote from: ericdev #8621 on March 31, 2013, 01:23:25 PM
Hello Ryan,
RWD 425 powered Cadillacs from 1977-1979 are one of the most bulletproof Cadillacs ever made IMHO. Their drivelines are exceptionally durable and while their factory fit & finish and the quality of interior materials wasn't exactly the best, they're still a very good machine with excellent overall reliability. Coupe deVilles are very pretty in this period.
That said, I would not recommend getting involved with it. Outstanding low mileage originals can be had for $5K to $10K all day long needing very little to no restoration at all. You could theoretically spend twice that getting this car all sorted and it will never be the car an unmolested, preserved original is, no matter what you do.
Save your nickels and buy a good one to start. It'll not only be an infinitely better car, but far cheaper in the long run.
I entirely agree about the car being one of the most bulletproof "OLD" cars. I drive a 77 every day, coast
to coast. BUT its only bulletproof IF the maintenance is UP TO DATE. Certainly buy the best looking
car you can find. But DON'T ASSUME the maintenance is current, it might be no better than the $400
car. Cars are money pits. Either be a decent mechanic, or know one and have a lot of money. My 77
is cheap to run, because I fix EVERYTHING myself. Bruce Roe
I do all my own work! Can't afford a mechanic.