There is a rear ball joint on my 58 convert that seems to be part of the rear suspension. I rarely hear anyone talking about this. Should it be lubricated? Do they often fail? Information, please.
Quote from: TonyZappone #2624 on January 12, 2015, 11:55:33 AM
There is a rear ball joint on my 58 convert that seems to be part of the rear suspension. I rarely hear anyone talking about this. Should it be lubricated? Do they often fail? Information, please.
Tony -
I don't recall if there is a zerk fitting on that piece . . . I know the universals require lubrication and the center universal requires a special grease gun adapter. As to failing, I've never heard of any problems.
Yes, they do fail from time to time. Over the years, I ordered a couple of them for people in Switzerland.
Tony, no fitting and if it fails, it is an issue both getting one and replacing it, you could carefully drill and tap it for a grease fitting, Shep
David: Is it apparent where it should be drilled and tapped?
I don't have knowledge of the construction used in the OEM 58 rear ball joint, but, the 63 rear ball joint was two thin sheet metal pieces stamped to accept a rubber ball with a stud encased into it. The tapered stud that attached to the differential housing had a ball on the stud inside the rubber ball. The encasing sheet metal housing was riveted to the rear upper yoke. The joint stud pivoted inside the rubber ball. Replacements are made like a bolt on front suspension ball joint and they can be lubricated. Typically, the rubber deteriorates and the stud begins to wiggle around in the sheet metal housing causing clunks and extra sway in the rear of the vehicle. I assume they used rubber to isolate noise transferred into the body from the rear axle.
Caddy Daddy lists a 57 - 58 rear ball joint for $269.73 ea. http://www.caddydaddy.com/shop-parts/suspension-items/ball-joint/rear-spherical.html
thank everyone for the feedback. I have filed the info from Caddy daddy. If David can tell me how to tap this for a grease fitting, fine. If not, I will probably let it fail and then replace it. I am old enough to book the bet this way.
Try and drill into the highest available point of the ball area, of course access may be an issue, then you will need to use a tap for the grease fitting of your choice. The best way is to get it on a lift with the proper supporting jack and remove the joint to do this. If it is worn, obviously this would be a waste of time, it needs replacement
Tony,
Check out this site and see if this rear ball joint looks like yours.
http://shop.rareparts.com/smtp/shopdisplaycategories.asp?iyear=1958&imake=0008|CADILLAC&imodel=0157|SERIES%2062&iproduct=0040|SUSPENSION,%20SPRINGS%20&%20COMPONENTS
I am a reseller, so if you need one, I can provide it for a little above my cost.
David
David: Thank you for the offer. If a member can positively identify which one fits my car, I will buy one. Big difference in price from the one shown in a previous tab.
Tony -
Why do you think the rear ball joint is bad? How many miles on the car?
A friend of mine was on vacation in Spain when the rear ball joint failed (went out of his seat). At that moment, the rear axle is no more guided sideway and only the drive shaft (and to some extend the lower arms) prevents that the rear axle is revolving.
Facit: when that occurs, you can not drive one inch more.
The car has 75,000 miles. With no means for lubrication, is there a way to tell if it is bad?
I've never heard of those ball joints going bad, but believe Roger. If you look at the location, the joint is pretty well protected from water, etc and if it is a sealed ball joint (like most new cars use for front ends), then I don't see it being a wear problem.
Quote from: TonyZappone #2624 on January 16, 2015, 01:19:40 PM
The car has 75,000 miles. With no means for lubrication, is there a way to tell if it is bad?
I was never confronted myself with such a situation. I would say that with 75'000 miles, the problem should not be evident. To check the joint, I would take a lever and check is there is an inacceptable vertical play.
Are these identical to the 60 rear axle ball joints? On a cross country tour of the Lincoln Hwy last summer we had two of three 60 Biarritzes in our group suffer failures of the rear ball joint. One of the guys carried a spare and "lent" it to the first guy who broke down. Of course his own ball joint failed 800 miles later, USA Parts Supply saved the day with a super fast next day air delivery to our next overnight stop.
If in Doubt replace the ball joint , worse case it could break you don't want that these do fail even here in New Zealand. Do not buy a Chinese made one you will be no better off. 58 - early 59 were the same up to vin # about 15000 from memory ,later 59 - 64 are the same.
Quote from: Grant Owen on January 16, 2015, 10:23:12 PM
If in Doubt replace the ball joint , worse case it could break you don't want that these do fail even here in New Zealand. Do not buy a Chinese made one you will be no better off. 58 - early 59 were the same up to vin # about 15000 from memory ,later 59 - 64 are the same.
I had the same exact thoughts about Chinese replacement parts but Grant beat me to the punch! Sometimes leaving a sleeping dog alone is best re: car parts. I remember my brother snapped the bolt that held the rear end in place on our 1959 Pontiac leaving rubber one day. My father was not too happy about that! If a car is abused, things will break. I can't imagine any of us burning rubber to impress our girlfriends; not to mention the price of tires . . .
The Rare Parts brand says they make their parts in CA. i believe they are of good quality, I am running the front end parts in my '58 Brougham and had them make the special EB parts for the rear. Those are on the shelf.
Their list prices are around 40% or so higher than wholesale. If you need something, I can get it wholesale and will bump it a little for the effort. These are very good parts, so if you need something, put together a list as the handling fee will be the same.
David
The next step is to get the car on a lift, and to get it checked out.
Finally got car up on lift. Guess what! There is a grease fitting, and it took grease. Because this car was built on either the last day or so of production, perhaps the grease fitting was fitted during that period. Also, there seemed to be no play in the mechanism at all.
Tony -
I thought there was a zerk fitting on that ball joint.
I get my car greased once/year (1,500 miles). May be over-kill, but grease is cheap. Also I have them use a hand lever gun so as not to blow any seals.
Keep it greased, and you should be fine!