I finally have the carb reassembled,and the accelerator line re-attached (turns out the bolts/screws on the spacer undid themselves . . . ).
I give it about 2oz of fuel in the carb, and salt, and get
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdochawk.org%2Fcaddie%2FIMG_0562.m4v&hash=1feed6f39be992c92ae62737001ac5e1d2fd8bbf)
opening up on the throttle does no good, and that puttering sound after it turns over is new.
Any suggestions?
thanks
hawk
Need the history, did the car run, you removed carb, repaired/rebuilt, and then reinstalled? The main thing is did it run and the carb work was the only change and now it will not start?
Working on cars is almost to the point of the computer networks rule: Don't change more than 1 thing at a time!
Try a little more gas down the carb and be sure the choke is closed.
Greg Surfas
Yes, when car is running, I do one thing at a time and restart it. Then proceed to the next task, complete it and restart. Yes as Greg wrote if choke is not closed car will not start - that is for sure.
It was running roughly (uncapped vacuum lines). It also didn't have the dashpot installed on the carb, iirc!
We had to pull it over a stuck open plate and reassembled and mounted the dashpot.
The video is from the third time I put in about 2oz from a measuring cup.
hawk
What do the plugs look like?
Plugs are pretty fresh--it's probably run about two hours since changing them.
hawk
But what do they look like after trying to start?
Are they wet? are they fouled? Show us.
Does it even sound like there is any combustion happening? sputtering? anything? backfiring out the carb? are the plug wires in the right order? what does it do on starter fluid?
When I've had this issue, check to make sure the idle mixture screws are turned out the correct number of turns recommended in the shop manual to get the approximate adjustment. If the screws are turned in too much, the carb will be starved for fuel. I don't remember if these Rochester carbs are supposed to be out 4 or 6 complete turns. Once you are confident the mixture is close, and the choke is setting properly, the car should start.
Here is the passenger side view, with the choke. Is this correct?
As I understand it, the pulloff will pull the arm towards it as vacuum starts, and then the lever from the coil on the block will push back to close the plates? Or is this backwards? When I push the airpot in by hand, the entire distance doesn't affect the arm. When I push the thing that it attaches to (which surely has a name . . .), it pulls the pot out a bit.
And did the arm from the coil end up on the correct side of the dashpot's arm?
How much fuel is safe to put in the carb to start it? I've been limiting to two ounces, but since I'm using a measuring cup anyway, more is easy.
I'll give it a little while longer to charge (left it on "on" again ::) ), and see what happens with more fuel.
thanks
hawk
Pour the gas down that big hollow tube in front of the choke. That is the bowl vent that leads directly to the bowl which is where the fuel normally is. I have never measured how much fits in there but its not much, a few ounces has got to be in the ballpark. If that is full that should be a good 30 seconds of run time.
I would have to go look at one but if there is just a single vac dodad I think its normal that it doesn't really appear to do anything with the carb just sitting there and throttles closed.
Quote from: dochawk on June 16, 2018, 04:06:03 PM
As I understand it, the pulloff will pull the arm towards it as vacuum starts, and then the lever from the coil on the block will push back to close the plates? Or is this backwards? When I push the airpot in by hand, the entire distance doesn't affect the arm. When I push the thing that it attaches to (which surely has a name . . .), it pulls the pot out a bit.
And did the arm from the coil end up on the correct side of the dashpot's arm?
From the picture the carb appears to be assembled correctly. The lever needs to be adjusted (bent) so that the choke opens a bit as the engine builds vacuum. The choke pull-off pulls in the linkage which moves the lever. The measurements for how much it opens are in the service manual.
If the engine turns over and fires, but only "putters" you might try changing the points and/or condenser.