Hello everyone. I’m happy to have found a forum on these cars. About 17 years ago I built a 72 Dodge Dart and without the help of Moparts I would have a lot more of those expensive learning experiences.
I have a 1968 Sedan DeVille with 21,000 original miles that is in need of paint and overall freshening of components. I’ve had the car for two years under a good cover, but I have had quite the snag for the past month.
Though it opened previously the hood is stuck. Specifically it is getting hung up on the driver’s side when pulling the lower bar. I’ve tried lubricating the releases, pushing down and rearward on the back of the hood, giving it a solid Fonzie, and other things. I don’t see a ton of detail about the assembly in the Shop Manual or Fisher Body Service Manual. The best look that I’ve gotten at the assembly was one that was photographed for an eBay posting.
I’m now at the point where I have the headlights off of the car and am about to pull the bumper. I’ve searched the forum and see mention of releasing it from under the car but I cannot find or figure out how.
Is there a known method to release the driver’s side latch and “pop†up the hood that doesn’t require pulling the front end apart?
Photo attached. It was a close fit but these do in fact fit on U-Haul trailers.
Thanks,
Got it open and here’s how:
1. Pop hood using under bumper rod.
2. Remove soft filler cardboard piece behind the bumper
3. Using a 1/2†socket with some extensions on it to remove two nuts on the latch
4. Stick a big screwdriver in the latch & use some force to get it free. It will drop when it’s free.
5. Open hood.
Quote from: 340dart on September 29, 2020, 08:17:18 PM
Got it open and here’s how:
1. Pop hood using under bumper rod.
2. Remove soft filler cardboard piece behind the bumper
3. Using a 1/2†socket with some extensions on it to remove two nuts on the latch
4. Stick a big screwdriver in the latch & use some force to get it free. It will drop when it’s free.
5. Open hood.
That is exactly how I would have told you to do it based on experience. Now you have experience too!
It's a good thing your car wasn't any longer, or the trailer any shorter! One more inch either way and I don't think it would have fit.
Bet you had to make wide turns too!
Rick
PS: congrats on getting the hood open.
Are you sure that isn't 221,000 miles?
Maybe it’s 121440? The inspection sticker is still on the car and it’s from 1977. The plate is from 75.
I bought the car based on the interior being overall impeccable (some minor splits in the back of the rear bench) and the cardboard in the trunk being intact. Brakes & even the e-brake still work.
The car was owned by a guy who stuck it in a warehouse in 77’. It was remove after his death in 05’ and put under a cover & awning. I bought it from that guy’s son-in-law who was storing it.
My dart is your typical steep gear, solid roller cam, and street slick bracket car masquerading as a street car with a license plate & inspection sticker. I’m really looking forward to taking this car back to factory with only changes that make it more reliable and maybe a little cam, intake manifold, and possibly a carb that I know more about.
OK, then it might very well be the real miles.
The paint & fenders threw me off, but that dash pic looks nice.
You don't need efi on these cars. My 1968 DVC with P&C starts in 1/10 of a second and runs Very well here in FL. and it's pushing 200,000 mi.
Ask questions as you go in new threads before you dive in on something your not sure about and we will help you.
Also get a shop manual (Digital and paper), they are cheap on eBay and others like Facebook and Craigslist.
Quote from: 340dart on September 29, 2020, 08:17:18 PM
Got it open and here’s how:
1. Pop hood using under bumper rod.
2. Remove soft filler cardboard piece behind the bumper
3. Using a 1/2†socket with some extensions on it to remove two nuts on the latch
4. Stick a big screwdriver in the latch & use some force to get it free. It will drop when it’s free.
5. Open hood.
WTH is # 2, "soft filler cardboard piece"? There is no cardboard under the hood of my 1968 DVC, soft or otherwise
Quote from: Cadman-iac on September 29, 2020, 11:40:44 PM
It's a good thing your car wasn't any longer, or the trailer any shorter! One more inch either way and I don't think it would have fit.
Bet you had to make wide turns too!
Rick
PS: congrats on getting the hood open.
Thanks Rick. Yeah, I drove veryyyyy slowly. Also I got it up there with a chain hoist. Slept great that night.
Quote from: cadillacmike68 on October 01, 2020, 02:09:38 AM
WTH is # 2, "soft filler cardboard piece"? There is no cardboard under the hood of my 1968 DVC, soft or otherwise
Maybe it isn’t cardboard. It’s the piece of flexible / fibrous material that is held to the bottom of the bumper and fills the space between it and the radiator support. It is secured with five plastic press-in connectors.
Also Mike you were right on RE: EFI. I flushed the fuel lines, changed the fuel filter, changed the oil, sprayed some light oil in the cylinders, turned it over a while to prime the oil system, poured a little gas in the carb, connected a battery and it started right up. Didn’t run it long but I’m thoroughly impressed at how this thing has come out of moth balls.
Quote from: Highwayman68 on September 30, 2020, 11:22:18 PM
Ask questions as you go in new threads before you dive in on something your not sure about and we will help you.
Also get a shop manual (Digital and paper), they are cheap on eBay and others like Facebook and Craigslist.
Thanks! I have the paper shop manual and the Fisher Body manual for this year. Digital shop manual is a good idea. I’ll get one at some point.
As you already have the Paper Manuals, then don't bother with the Digital ones as the Paper ones are far easier to work with.
Especially when using them at the actual car, as Computer Keys don't like dirty fingers. Paper doesn't either, but the paper ones are easier to read without having to constantly scroll through.
Bruce. >:D
The digital version is easier to search and enlarge, keep an old laptop in the garage with the manuals loaded on it.
Quote from: cadillacmike68 on October 01, 2020, 02:09:38 AM
WTH is # 2, "soft filler cardboard piece"? There is no cardboard under the hood of my 1968 DVC, soft or otherwise
Sounds like someone is missing the fancy dancy coverings that these cars came with probably to control air movement over the engine.... I don't know.
Quote from: Highwayman68 on October 01, 2020, 09:10:50 AM
Sounds like someone is missing the fancy dancy coverings that these cars came with probably to control air movement over the engine.... I don't know.
I'll be out of town this weekend but I'll take some photos with a ruler next to it in case anyone is missing and wants to make one.
Quote from: Highwayman68 on October 01, 2020, 09:10:50 AM
Sounds like someone is missing the fancy dancy coverings that these cars came with probably to control air movement over the engine.... I don't know.
I think he is referring to the macerated rubber material that is between the lower rear edge of the bumper, and the lower forward edge of the radiator cradle.
Charles Fares
yes, probably the masticated rubber that GM used on a lot of cars as a splash shield between the bumper and radiator and condenser
Opps, my bad on my post, I was referring to Mike as the person who apparently doesn't have those on his car because he doesn't know what they are.
Quote from: Highwayman68 on October 01, 2020, 09:10:50 AM
Sounds like someone is missing the fancy dancy coverings that these cars came with probably to control air movement over the engine.... I don't know.
It's called masticated rubber. I have all the inserts. But it's Not cardboard. That would have never lasted a week when new.
Quote from: cadillacmike68 on October 02, 2020, 02:53:19 AM
It's called masticated rubber. I have all the inserts. But it's Not cardboard. That would have never lasted a week when new.
Well, that’s great info. I’m going to make some new ones because mine have the texture of cardboard. Now I know what material to buy!
Steelerubber.com is going to come in in handy!
Steele Rubber (and possibly Rubber the Right Way) should have all the pre-cut splash guards and they also sell it in rolls. Don't forget the small splash guard that goes from the trunk edge to the bumper top at the back.
Here is how the two back strips look: