Hello experts
-73 Eldo conv. has air shocks, manually fillable from one valve parallel for both.
I have tried to run them empty and full many times but allways the driver side is lower.
I don`t think the lower side is leaking because it stays in that same level.
Is the matter in the shock or the coil spring ? Should I change both ?
How about front (I`ve had the car just for few months) ?
What brand or type and where shoud I buy them, I like soft and smooth ride.
Is there any things I should pay attention to, for example with the coil spring compressors type etc.
Btw
came to my mind that should I just separate the shocks by assembling another valve, so that both are filled separately to same level,
or does it eliminate some leveling features driving in curve etc. ?
Thanks guys
Mika
Always measure(ruler) the ground clearance from a level surface, so there's no perception difference. Take a level to whatever surface your viewing/measuring from. A rut, low spot. lean could exaggerate. I'd check, rotate, balance the tires to make sure it's in the rear suspension.
Common on low vehicles to install rear air adjustable shocks for clearance. If you don't know how old the "air" shocks are, it's a rather inexpensive bolt in replacement to change. I'm brand loyal, so suspect there's only brand differences to what's available at your local parts dealer. Usually with air adjusts, since the internal pressure changes, the ride changes with lift a little.
There's many reasons why this could be, and no way to tell from afar. Could be anything from collision damage to a sagging/broken spring/bent rear suspension component. Caveat emptor.
Depends how bad it is, how much effort you'll want to apply. Unless something's broken, probably won't affect much except appeal. There are some "cheap tricks" but need to diagnose the issue.
I suggest to take to a competent garage put on a lift for diagnosis/est. cost to repair.
Getting a measurement from a frame point like what is in the manual is a good idea. You could have a body panel or bumper that is throwing things off at least in perception.
The other thing that could have happened is at some point in its life it sat on an uneven surface or had a flat tire or two. Maybe it was owned by a overweight encyclopedia salesman that like to keep all his samples and inventory on the drivers side?
I think it was my 75 that was bad when I got it and I bought new springs which was a total waste of money. It was still crooked and if there was an air problem the bumper would be on the ground. What I ended up doing (other than returning the worthless springs) was swapping the originals side to side. That helped but I also had to adjust the torsion bars a bit. If your car has ever seen salt or got wet very often you will want to pre soak the adjuster bolts and jack it off the ground to take some of the pressure off when you adjust them.
I have a 75' Eldo and during very recent restoration decided to do an extensive clean up on the engine bay and front and rear suspension.
The rear shocks were not sagging, but found the bushings were in very poor shape.
Plus the air-lines had been destroyed by time and mice over time.
I bought a pair of "KYB" shocks and they work great.
The original shocks were cleaned and they still operate very well with no leaks.
--------
On the front I installed pair of "KYB" air shocks and they work great.
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Anyone know where I can find new rear bushings, air-lines and flanged connectors?
Make sure your front measurements are proper. The torsion bars are simple to adjust. But, you will also need a front end alignment after raising/lowering the torsion bars. I replaced the rear springs on my car and it made a world of difference. Believe it or not, the shock are still the Delco shocks and they don't leak air at all. Original? I don't honestly know. But, I would assume so at 37,000.
OK, thanks guys.
It`s not a matter of perception, and it has to be something more than adjusting.
Since I live in Finland you cannot get most parts here, you have to buy the most from US
and every order takes time... otherwise it would be easy just to change shocks, and then springs next day if it did`t help.
Anyway I did put few pictures so one can see the difference between the hubcaps.
Mika
Fin, lowering the rear end looks really good!
Mika,
I would be checking out everything underneath for any misalignment, bending, or fractures, and if nothing there, swapping the rear coil springs from side to side.
Than if nothing happens there, I would be adjusting the front torsion bar on the low side to increase the ride height, or adjusting the other torsion bar to decrease the ride height.
On my '72 Eldo, I had to increase the ride height on the Left side as we drive on the Left side of the road, and with me sitting on the Left side, (Still LHD), this accentuated the leaning of the car to the left.
Going around a right hand corner, the car would really sag to the left, but this is not as much of a problem when the driver is placed towards the centre of the road, as in a LHD country.
Plus, to make handling even better, I installed a rear Sway Bar, which really enhanced the handling performance.
Bruce. >:D
Ya that is a major difference. I don't think mine was that bad. I would be doing a careful inspection looking for some sort of damage or abuse. It would have had to sit for a very long time on an uneven surface and have to have a flat tire or two to get that bad. Even then the air shocks should have been able to get it a lot closer.
How is the front?
Terve Mika,
Is the rear moving up and down when you change the air pressure in the rear shocks?
Hi, and thanks for your answers !
Bruce
I have to check for damages etc. (if my green eye can notice something) but because it seems that issue gets
worse while standing, does it tell something ? (shocks have air bleed and level difference get worse when low pressure ?)
Does the torsion bar adjusting effect rear hight, and that much ?
I might rather get new springs than swipe them.. and do the same with shocks also if needed..
That sway bar sounds very good idea ! Is it an easy thing to assembly and where did you buy yours ?
TJ
As far as I know, it has been on an even surface for years, and it was not bad when I bought it 3 months ago.
Yes, front is ok.
Matti
Yes, the whole rear went up and down when I drained and filled the air shocks, but I did not inspect at the level
difference when drained, have to do it.
My unexperienced guess is that the spring is just tired, and maybe gets worse if shocks or lines bleed and make
the difference bigger when pressure is low ?
Pictures are from the day I bought the car, look at hub cab levels (then the shocks may have had high pressure).
Tomorrow I will go to the garage and fill the shocks and see if the difference gets smaller.
Mika
Yes I think I would start by making sure there is no air in the shocks so know there are not any issues. I think I would maybe even go as far as disconnecting the lines at the shocks themselves just to make sure there isn't an issue or debris in the lines causing an imbalance. Maybe there is a little chunk of dirt acting as a check valve so every time you hit a bump the low side pushes more air to the high side and the dirt acts like a valve and keeps it there?
If the car sits level at that point you know its related to the shocks and their air supply.
And I was thinking that 75 was maybe the only year they came with a sway bar so you may already have one.
Quote from: TJ Hopland on November 03, 2020, 01:17:32 PM
Yes I think I would start by making sure there is no air in the shocks so know there are not any issues. I think I would maybe even go as far as disconnecting the lines at the shocks themselves just to make sure there isn't an issue or debris in the lines causing an imbalance. Maybe there is a little chunk of dirt acting as a check valve so every time you hit a bump the low side pushes more air to the high side and the dirt acts like a valve and keeps it there?
If the car sits level at that point you know its related to the shocks and their air supply.
Good idea that dirt valve TJ !
I will see if both shocks go to bottom when empty.
Mika
Quote from: TJ Hopland on November 03, 2020, 01:18:23 PM
And I was thinking that 75 was maybe the only year they came with a sway bar so you may already have one.
But mine is -73
This is how low the front gets with the Torsion Bars at their lowest point. (I did this to gain height inside the container. Got even lower by removing the tyres from the rims and ran the car in on the rims riding on a 2" x 2" RHS "rails")
As for the rear Torsion Bar, I made my own with parts from a Holden Vectra, and a bit of fabrication.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on November 03, 2020, 07:05:40 PM
This is how low the front gets with the Torsion Bars at their lowest point. (I did this to gain height inside the container. Got even lower by removing the tyres from the rims and ran the car in on the rims riding on a 2" x 2" RHS "rails")
As for the rear Torsion Bar, I made my own with parts from a Holden Vectra, and a bit of fabrication.
Bruce. >:D
Ok, Bruce
I have springs for rear suspension, did you replace yours with a torsion bar ?
Or is that the sway bar, or are they same thing ?
I can note that that was not a plug and play thing :)
Mika
Mika,
The pictures are the Sway Bar, which I accidentally described as a Torsion Bar, which it actually is. Or Anti Roll Bar.
It is placed in addition to the original coil springs, and the Air Shockers, and controls the rolling movement of the car on cornering.
Definitely not Plug and Play, but "hold it up to see if it might fit, then play with the various ways to create the 4 mounting points, then, plug in the electric drill, welder, and in the end, paint."
I used all the pieces from the Holden, and had to make mounts tough enough to not break.
Bruce. >:D
Mika,
I would really double check your measurements with the car on a perfectly level and smooth surface.
The problem with just one corner of the car being low, is that unless the car is twisted, the opposite corner should measure as being high, or the same side in the front should also measure lower.
How well does the top line up with the windshield frame when you put it up? If it requires you to move it some in order to latch it down, that would be an indication that the car may be sprung out of shape, twisted, or bent someplace.
How does it look from the front and the rear? Does it appear to be low on one side on either end? If the car is not twisted, the right side in the front should look high, or the left side should also look low from the front.
If opposite corners are off, then I would suspect a weak spring on the left rear. If it's low on the same side, both front and rear, then I would suspect the torsion bar on the left as weak or in need of adjustment, and also possibly a weak spring on the rear.
Just my observations, I hope they may help you identify the problem.
Rick
Edit: Just so I know that I 'splained this right, when I said earlier if the front of the car was low on one side, that is in respect to the factory specifications. If the car is low on the left rear corner, and it's not been twisted or damaged in some way, theoretically it should be high on the right front, and that would give the appearance of being low on the left front, but if the left front is at the correct ride height, then it should measure high on the right front, if it was just a weak rear coil spring on the left side.
However, if you get a measurement for the right front corner that is within spec, then the left front corner should measure lower than the factory spec.
Look at it this way, the car is going to pivot on one of two axis, either on a diagonal from the left front to the right rear if you have a weak spring and no frame damage, or, straight down the center of the car from front to rear, and again, a weak spring can cause this, but it also would mean that the torsion bar is probably either weak or out of adjustment.
I think I have explained this correctly, and hopefully clearly enough.
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on November 04, 2020, 05:49:20 AM
Mika,
The pictures are the Sway Bar, which I accidentally described as a Torsion Bar, which it actually is. Or Anti Roll Bar.
It is placed in addition to the original coil springs, and the Air Shockers, and controls the rolling movement of the car on cornering.
Definitely not Plug and Play, but "hold it up to see if it might fit, then play with the various ways to create the 4 mounting points, then, plug in the electric drill, welder, and in the end, paint."
I used all the pieces from the Holden, and had to make mounts tough enough to not break.
Bruce. >:D
Respect 👍😎
Quote from: Finndorado on November 04, 2020, 01:20:26 PM
Respect 👍😎
I second that!
I don't want to hijack this thread, but this is where the subject was mentioned, so I have a question for you Bruce.
How did you retain the tensile strength in the bar after welding it? Did you let it cool down naturally, or dip it into oil to cool it?
Or did you do it another way?
I'm thinking about trying to do this for the rear of my car, and I don't want it to break under the stress of flexing.
Rick
Quote from: Cadman-iac on November 04, 2020, 10:03:59 AM
Mika,
I would really double check your measurements with the car on a perfectly level and smooth surface.
The problem with just one corner of the car being low, is that unless the car is twisted, the opposite corner should measure as being high, or the same side in the front should also measure lower.
How well does the top line up with the windshield frame when you put it up? If it requires you to move it some in order to latch it down, that would be an indication that the car may be sprung out of shape, twisted, or bent someplace.
How does it look from the front and the rear? Does it appear to be low on one side on either end? If the car is not twisted, the right side in the front should look high, or the left side should also look low from the front.
If opposite corners are off, then I would suspect a weak spring on the left rear. If it's low on the same side, both front and rear, then I would suspect the torsion bar on the left as weak or in need of adjustment, and also possibly a weak spring on the rear.
Just my observations, I hope they may help you identify the problem.
Rick
Thanks Rick
I can see your point, it`s true. The issue is now worse than before, after being in garage for three weeks now.
I took it out just for a while because space was needed inside, but I didn`t look the front then.
Maybe I would have noticed the opposite corner being higher, have to check it properly when I go there.
I am pretty sure it`s not damaged -> twisted, nothing (else) indicates that, nor does the top lining.
I think a shock or it`s line is leaking, and the spring is weak (the most simple explanation..)
But because my experience is 3 months, I rather ask here than do stupid mistakes or useless work.
Coil springs I get quicly from Sweden (nice surprice), but for shocks I wanted Koni or Bilstein, but you cannot get them.
Have to think between KYB and Monroe then.
Mika
I will be curious to see and hear what he finds. I am really wondering if its going to turn out to be an air/debris issue. That is such a huge difference you could see in the photos that I can't really think of anything else it could be especially because it apparently came on fairly quickly. There was so much difference if it was anything other than air pressure I don't think the car would ever sit right and he would have found something seriously and obviously wrong underneath.
You could also look for clues of a past issue like do the rear springs look the same? Front torsion bars look the same? Signs of recent adjustment on the torsion bar keys? Are those bolts visually looking to be similarly adjusted?
There was that post a couple years ago about the guy that has his torsion bars powder coated and the curing process apparently really screwed up the metallurgy of the springs so he was having tons of issues getting and keeping them adjusted. I assume no signs of anything like that here?
Yes please keep us updated as to what you find out. I'm also curious about that.
TJ is right about a shock causing a problem like that, but only if it has a blockage in the line going to the left shock, or in the actual shock itself.
To test that theory, you can try to air up just one shock at a time and see what happens. You will have to change the fitting that you put the air into the system with to one that has just a single line attachment on it, or find a cap to plug one or the other lines respectively on your existing fitting.
With both shocks tied together and everything being equal, they should both lift identically. But as TJ suggested, if there's a blockage, the opposite shock will receive the air. It won't take twice as much of course, it's just that the blocked shock won't receive any air. So if you are checking the pressure in the system, you won't see any difference in the pressure reading, regardless if one was blocked. It just won't take as much air to reach the pressure you want.
Hopefully we have given you some things to look for and it will be easier to locate the problem.
Rick
Quote from: Cadman-iac on November 04, 2020, 01:49:25 PM
I don't want to hijack this thread, but this is where the subject was mentioned, so I have a question for you Bruce.
How did you retain the tensile strength in the bar after welding it? Did you let it cool down naturally, or dip it into oil to cool it? Or did you do it another way?
I'm thinking about trying to do this for the rear of my car, and I don't want it to break under the stress of flexing. Rick
G'day Rick,
No modifying to the original Holden Torsion Bar as it fitted perfectly, which is surprising in itself, but I did have to modify the mounts.
But I have modified Torsion bars before, when fitting a Front Rambler bar to my '37 Chev, onto a '68 Chev 12 Bolt diff. That one I heavily re-shaped it, and then had it re-heat treated at my local Spring Works.
Bruce. >:D
Thanks for that Bruce. I thought you had modified the bar itself. I guess I'll have to see if I can find a bar that fits my car then too. Or figure out how to heat treat one if it needs to be modified.
Hope all is well down under. Take care and stay safe,
Rick
Mika,
I don't remember if anyone asked you this, but how does the car sit with no air in the shocks? Is it still lopsided, or level?
This would be a good way to check it out and would narrow down the possibilities some. Just a thought.
Rick
Guys, Thank you so much for your support !!!
I believe Rick hit the jackpot with that advice to measure all corners.
When I took the pictures, I took the car out just to make space inside for other jobs,
I didn`t scope this issue at that moment, but noticed that difference and took the pictures.
Today I went to garage, took the car cover away (inside garage) and thought what a hell, it`s not
even half that bad as last time, you can barely notice it.
Measuring corners, the opposite side right front corner was even more higher towards
left front, than the left rear was lower than the right rear !!!
The difference was: rear/rear 1,5 cm and front/front 4 cm.
Before measuring I stared at the front standing and sitting in front of the car, but with your own eyes you could`t see the difference, unbelievable ! Maybe the long and huge hood effects the optical result.
So I believe the low left rear is not lifting the right front, but the high right front lowers the left rear :)
Instead of replacing the springs and shocks, I have to turn one bolt, the torsion bar`s 😎 😂😂😂.
Decided to lower the higher right corner.
In the picture the right front wheel must have been on higher level, twisting opposite corner down more than usually.
I think this is the case. (Tried to kick my own ass several times, but only hurt my knee..)
I didn`t adjust the torsion bar yet, thought to read some instructions first (with load or not, clock- or counterwise,
how much at time etc.), and the manual was at home.
Thanks again !
I will tell you the final results if you`re interested.
Br
Mika
EDIT:
Or not.
(after reading more about low rears, and springs)
Nice to have a brainchild, and then come down 😬
Quote from: Cadman-iac on November 05, 2020, 02:21:13 PM
Mika,
I don't remember if anyone asked you this, but how does the car sit with no air in the shocks? Is it still lopsided, or level?
This would be a good way to check it out and would narrow down the possibilities some. Just a thought.
Rick
Rick, didn`t test that, but maybe you already read my post few minutes ago.
But will do it on monday.
Mika,
One thing to remember is that these cars with the ALC, the rear coils were softer than those cars that the buyers opted out of getting the ALC.
Whatever you do, do not attempt to adjust the torsion bars with the weight on. Might be okay for lowering, but definitely not for raising.
If these adjusters haven't been moved since the car was built, then I would suggest spraying the threads/nut with a penetrant, as these threads could be extremely tight after years of being out in the atmosphere. (Road Grime, Salt, etc.)
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on November 05, 2020, 08:12:47 PM
Mika,
One thing to remember is that these cars with the ALC, the rear coils were softer than those cars that the buyers opted out of getting the ALC.
Whatever you do, do not attempt to adjust the torsion bars with the weight on. Might be okay for lowering, but definitely not for raising.
If these adjusters haven't been moved since the car was built, then I would suggest spraying the threads/nut with a penetrant, as these threads could be extremely tight after years of being out in the atmosphere. (Road Grime, Salt, etc.)
Bruce. >:D
Thanks Bruce !
That I had in my mind, because I definitely don`t want a raised rear.
It`s not so easy to find springs, forexample Rock auto hasn`t got them, and when you do, there is no knowledge if
they are soft or stiff.
This car came to Finland 2011 and has been under proper restoration since then, and got it`s first registration last summer.
The shocks seem to be new?, rear white (air) and front black, but I don`t know the brand, maybe Monroe and Delco.
But the springs are not new, so maybe I turn to replace them after torsion bar adjustment results.
The left lower side torsion bar seems to be greased ?? (at least the pole that I could see) and the right higher side is dry.
Could that tell about something, or just a coincidence ???
If other one is replaced, then why is it done ?
I mean what are the reasons for replacing torsion bars, leading to that possibility that they are not in matching adjustment, leading to
that my issue is in torsion bar adjustment or in rear spring (or then both..).
Mika
Mika,
You say that the car has been rebuilt, and one of the adjusters appears to have been
greased.
Maybe one side has had the suspension rebuilt, requiring the slackening off of the bar and removal to get the lower control arm off, and the other side was not touched.
Without knowing what was done, then one has to assume that everything needs checking.
Theoretically, the Torsion Bar Adjusting screws should be roughly in the same position.
As for Colour of the Rear Shockers, I have purchased a couple of pairs over the years from Rock Auto, and one set was White, and the other Black. At the moment I have a Black one on one side, and a White one on the other side, simply because the first White one developed a leak in the bag, and I haven't replaced the other one.
Bruce. >:D
I would still disconnect the air lines to make sure the air isn't having an uneven influence. I would also consider a L to R swap on the rears just to help things out before going after the torsion bars.
Since it doesn't sound like there is damage my guess is it sat for several years with one flat tire.
Bruce
For me, it seems that the restoration main goal has been "let`s do
everything your eye can see needs to be done".
Every bushing seems like new, rust proof coating is everywhere, paint
is 95% great, new top, new upholstery.
The 73 years old gentlemen, the importer, I bought this from, I think he was tired to
this project, did drive it only few miles, and told me he has another project also.
I think he didn`t do the restoration by him self.
And according to my first test drive, I noticed the transmission shifted
upwards very late and rough, so he did not (have time to ?) pay attention to the final operation.
He also told me that some near american car expert..?
(I believe there truly is only few in Finland, not behind every corner)
told him that there is nothing to do with the engine..
After buying I replaced the vacuum modulator, and shifting is smooth now.
And that`s not all, but does`t belong to this case.
So that´s the history information to have clues from.
The gentleman is very friendly and helpfull, but I guess he doesn`t really
know everything about the car, so asking him is much of lottery.
TJ
Thanks for your advice TJ !
I will let all air out of rear, and do the measure/look after that !
I think if I do something with springs, I replace them..
I`m aware of the car former ownerr before the car left to Finland
I did send him a postcard with restorated picture, intending him to
share the car history.
No reply so far (and not waiting for anymore..).
Anyway I found my car from YouTube when it still was in US.
Wreck from inside and top, poor paint, but otherwise intact.
Mileage seems correct according to the video.
How do I know it`s the same car ?
Well, from the hood ornament that`s not original, and the dancing
Hawaiian girl on the dashboard that is still there, it`s unique !
Here`s a link where a Finnish born "car hunter" inspects it before
shipping it to Finland.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZkwJrzSE7g&feature=share
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSBgoC32p9A&feature=share
BR
Mika
I hope that you didn't buy it from that video alone, as that is one of the worst videos I have seen. Too fast around the car, too unsteady, and simply not enough content.
Stills is the way to go, then dozens of them, and poke the camera under the car, taking pictures using the flash.
Then go and personally inspect, as the air fares are really cheap.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on November 06, 2020, 06:18:40 PM
I hope that you didn't buy it from that video alone, as that is one of the worst videos I have seen. Too fast around the car, too unsteady, and simply not enough content.
Stills is the way to go, then dozens of them, and poke the camera under the car, taking pictures using the flash.
Then go and personally inspect, as the air fares are really cheap.
Bruce. >:D
Bruce
Bruce
I didn’t, but the gentleman I bought it from did.
But I don’t believe just because of that video.
I believe the video is just one of the “car hunters†collection
of choices.
When I bought it, it was as in the pictures, painted and restored.
The hunter is a Finnish guy searching bodies, the importer was another
Finnish guy, and the buyer the third.
I am number four with an almost proper vehicle 😁
Mika
Mika,
forgive this late post, but IF all the frame rails and the spring pockets are undamaged I might suspect a previous owner just might have been a bit large. Before you laugh, this actually happened to my grandfather's 49 Buick.
He got a new car in 1960 (he bought a new car every 10 or so years), and the 49 went to a relative that was extremely overweight. They promptly destroyed the springs in the seat, and after 2 years of driving the driver's side rear hung about 4 inches lower than the passenger side.
If your air lift system had been inoperative, all the weight would have been borne by your springs which were never made to carry an overload.
With the car on level ground measure the heights of the two rear springs and see if there is a difference.
We'll take it from there
Greg Surfas
Greg
At the garage there is a â€pit in the floor†(I don’t know what you call it) to
get under the car.
The pit place will be available soon, then I can do measurements and comparisons
under.
I’ll be back with those.
Mika
Pit is the correct term, and you are lucky to have one that you can use.
Bruce. >:D
Bruce
Ok.
Yes, I was very lucky to find this garage only 15 minutes away from my home,
even I nowadays live in the middle of nothing :)
Mika
Hey Mika,
Greg has made a really good point here about a possible cause for the "tilt" condition. But instead of a worn or weak spring in the rear, I'm thinking that the right front torsion bar may have been adjusted to keep the car level when an overweight person was sitting in the passenger seat. Once the person was out of the car, the right front corner would rise, and cause the left rear to "appear" to sag.
Like Greg, I recall an overweight customer who had come in to the dealership to have his car worked on, and it had a really bad "tilt" to the driver's side, even after he got out of the car. It was an older Chevy, '68 or '69, so it didn't have an adjustable torsion bar on it.
Maybe if you are able to ask the person who restored the car what condition the front seats were in, such as the springs being collapsed or broken on either side, that could be a clue as to what was done to it, as far as an adjustment to one of the torsion bars goes anyway.
Rick
Hey Rick
I believe that might be one of possible reasons.
Next week I can get the car on pit and be able to
measure all corners better, with rear shocks empty,
and adjust the passenger side torsion bar.
Actually I found the car from YouTube before restoration
and sending to Finland, and here is couple of screenshots where
you can see the passenger side door and seat, and how worn
they were. The drivers side was in better condition.
And looking at that condition brings to my mind how much that
mileage 29 900 can be possible...
Maybe someone was living in it but not driving it 😄.
Mika
Yes, I'd be interested in what you find out. The seat and armrest are pretty rough looking, so I guess it's possible that's the reason for your problem. An overweight passenger that is.
Rick
Quote from: Cadman-iac on November 10, 2020, 04:59:28 PM
Yes, I'd be interested in what you find out. The seat and armrest are pretty rough looking, so I guess it's possible that's the reason for your problem. An overweight passenger that is.
Rick
Rick and TJ
Took a long time to tell how this ended, but I had more urgent things to do first.
I changed my rear coil springs to new ones, didn't solve the problem.
Inspected the rear shocks many times and thought that it
must be the drivers side shock that's faulty being lower. Jacked lower side up and
put max air pressure (jacked down) and checked them after few days, they do not leak.
Then today I adjusted down the front passenger torsion bar and that's what
made the rear even ! First 4 rounds to see, then 6 or 8 rounds more.
Amazing what an effect. Now the drivers side rear shock is only 1cm lower,
maybe because of being under more pressure for long time, but now I am satisfied.
In that picture outside of the garage when the situation was the worst,
I only concentrated level surface in the rear, but the passenger side front
wheel was on a bump so it twisted the drivers side rear more down.
Stupid me not to notice that earlier when got a hint from here.
Thanks a lot for your support !
Mika
Now you need to have your front end alignment checked. You changed the ride height on the passenger side. You affected all three. Caster, camber and while very little, the toe-in.
Quote from: Big Fins on May 12, 2022, 06:33:35 PM
Now you need to have your front end alignment checked. You changed the ride height on the passenger side. You affected all three. Caster, camber and while very little, the toe-in.
Damn, that's true.
If they were aligned in the first place..
Mika
That's the reason I never moved my torsion bar adjustment to make up for the sagging rear on the left side. I replaced the springs.