What´s the best and easiest approach to the fuel gauge? Shop manual says instrument cluster removal. Isn´t it easier to remove the dashpad and work from the top?
I want to remove the gauge for I get erratic readings. Sending unit is working, wire is good. Connectors at the rear, too. I bet it´s the internal ground that´s causing the erratic on and off working of the gauge.
Quote from: Hillbillycat on November 17, 2020, 10:58:54 AM
What´s the best and easiest approach to the fuel gauge? Shop manual says instrument cluster removal. Isn´t it easier to remove the dashpad and work from the top?
I want to remove the gauge for I get erratic readings. Sending unit is working, wire is good. Connectors at the rear, too. I bet it´s the internal ground that´s causing the erratic on and off working of the gauge.
Either the way of removing either the instrument dash pad or the instrument cluster is a task, but the top dash pad would be the easier one.
Just follow the Service Manual to remove it and should give you easy access to remove the gauge(s).
When you remove the back cover from the gauge make sure to clean the center brass plate which makes contact with the metal cover, this is the ground for the gauge and it is prone for corrosion.
Good luck..!
I agree with Jose. One aspect of dash top removal that I dread, however, is getting all of the surrounding trim re-fastened. There always seem to be the odd screw that just does not want to go back in and/or find the threaded hole. Once I spent almost 1 hour I shamefully admit, trying to get one screw in. This can be a huge PITA, at least with my car. Clay/Lexi
Hmm, maybe taking the cluster in and out is the faster approach then, haha.
I suspect the center brass plate to be corroded.
Is it wise to take a look at the temp gauge, too, or is this just one of these "might as well" traps? Temp gauge works without a flaw.
Quote from: Hillbillycat on November 18, 2020, 07:12:30 AM
Hmm, maybe taking the cluster in and out is the faster approach then, haha.
The dash cluster would be a bit more cumbersome as you would need to remove the temp control levers and loosen the steering column bracket to drop the steering column down a bit, disconnect the speedo cable and all the lights and cables. :(
Is like the old saying "you have to pick your own poison". ;)
Quote from: Hillbillycat on November 18, 2020, 07:12:30 AM
I suspect the center brass plate to be corroded.
Is it wise to take a look at the temp gauge, too, or is this just one of these "might as well" traps? Temp gauge works without a flaw.
Well since you are in there it would be a good time to also check and clean the temp gauge, both have a center brass that makes with the metal cover for both coils.
Thanks,
I´ll do both gauges then.
Well, I did not pull the cluster but took off the dashpad instead. But I had to remove both side heater levers and speedo/trip cable from the instrument cluster to get enougth clearance to work from behind.
Fuel gauge came out pretty easy.
There was absolutely NO corrosion however. I noticed the needle was swinging very slowly/dragging when the gauge was turned in the hand. Chcecked the pivot point and it was dragging from gunky oil. Cleaned it with my dental pick and brake cleaner. now the needle swings back and forth at ease when the gauge is rotated by hand.
I can only explain my erratic reading came from this gunk at the needle pivot, since ground contact corrosion, bad wire and sender is ruled out now.
Will use new rubber grommets for the dash pad. The old one´s are bone dry and dash had been rattling some.
Let´s see if the dash gives me struggle by reinstallation :-))
Forgot to add the picture of the opened gauge. As you can see - no corrosion.
Quote from: Hillbillycat on November 21, 2020, 04:13:02 AM
Forgot to add the picture of the opened gauge. As you can see - no corrosion.
8)
Just make sure the center strip on the gauge do make good contact with the metal case after it is all together. I usually apply the small layer of solder (silver solder and flux) on the strip to make sure there is a good contact between both ends. ;)
Fuel gauge is back in and fully working. Needle zips up to F as soon as ignition is on.
And yes, the dashpad is a real PITA to get in. There´s still one screw from underneath that won´t go in.....oh well.
Yep. There always seems to be one screw topside or underneath that is a problem. Last time I took my dash top off I had one of the trim screws give me headaches as well as one underneath that did not line up with the hole. So used a small "L" shaped pick tool to pull the bottom out to line the holes up. Worked. Works to either pull the top or the chrome dash grille to line up. Just pick the right length of "L" tool to do the job. Clay/Lexi