As I posted earlier I noticed a "vibration" in the car coming home from the show Sunday.
Michael said to get the tires rebalanced and rotated, I thought it might be the drive shaft but I do as
I'm told.
Ryan at Cape Tire (our wheel guy) rebalanced and rotated all the Diamond Backs, they've been on for 3K miles, have never lost a pound of pressure, each was out between .25 and .50 ounce. Had the alignment checked too, it was fine. Up to route 6 and an 80mph ride, smooth as buttah. Nice.
Michael took the drive shaft out last night, about a 20 minute job. Bucklers gave us a ride home.
I'll be taking the shaft to Capeway Machine for rebuild and balance today. Turn around is about a week,
Bucklers will take us back to Michael and he'll whip it back in. Obvious wear signs around the yoke, I think
its the yoke. Case of Type F, rear tail shaft seal, new transmission mount in process.
The Ark finally burned a quart of oil. Try to find HR4 around here, it doesn't exist. Ordered some from
Summit Racing, and as long as I was there, ordered another PerTronix 1181 that I'll be putting in a Faraday Bag and into the trunk. Just in case.
Even though Michael drained the tranny fluid in the shop, The Ark still pi$$ed fluid all over the flatbed, I felt so bad, I know Dill had to wash that off in the morning, gave him a tip.
The sooner I log off this stupid laptop the sooner I'll be on my way with the driveshaft.
VERY cool shop, Capeway Machine and Bearing, and pretty close to here too.
Really nice guys who were surprised to see a chick bringing in a drive shaft, LOL!
They do common cars/trucks, antiques and a LOT of racers. Restoration and build from blue prints.
And a huge commercial business/industry clientele.
They estimate a week to complete The Ark's driveshaft, nice. Gives me a week to procure another case
of Type F, rear seal and the tranny mount inbound from OPGI.
Here's a pic of a newly rebuilt driveshaft being balanced.
Laurie,
They'll likely change out the U joints--- the originals are "factory sealed and greased" and the replacement ones (from back in the day) had a zerk fitting for maintenance lubrication. They do wear and will create an annoying vibration that occasionally comes and goes, and then only gets worse. Trust the difference will be noticeable for you-- Looking forward to your report. James
I'd also check your trans mount. I had a similar issue with my 57 when I got it. I tried everything but I still had that vibration. Turns out the trans mount had turned to plastic and was no longer effective.
Hi Laurie,
That Faraday bag, is that in case you experience an EMP event?
Rick
Quote from: James Landi on April 22, 2021, 01:40:47 PM
Laurie,
They'll likely change out the U joints--- the originals are "factory sealed and greased" and the replacement ones (from back in the day) had a zerk fitting for maintenance lubrication. They do wear and will create an annoying vibration that occasionally comes and goes, and then only gets worse. Trust the difference will be noticeable for you-- Looking forward to your report. James
Yep, its on the 'to do' list for them. I have no idea about the zert/zirt? fitting! Gary/Michael have had over 30 old Caddy's "all the drive shafts are junk" and have to be rebuilt. Looking forward to having my baby back on the road real soon.
Quote from: 55 CDV Fan 82 on April 22, 2021, 01:49:20 PM
I'd also check your trans mount. I had a similar issue with my 57 when I got it. I tried everything but I still had that vibration. Turns out the trans mount had turned to plastic and was no longer effective.
As I said in Reply #1 "tranny mount inbound from OPGI". They actually had the best price with shipping.
Quote from: Cadman-iac on April 22, 2021, 04:04:23 PM
Hi Laurie,
That Faraday bag, is that in case you experience an EMP event?
Rick
Yes. The new PerTronix that will be shielded and the holy water arrived today. I need to get that bag.
Did you know all your LED flashlights won't work? Glad I kept all my old MagLites, bulbs work, D batteries in stock.
Quote from: Cape Cod Fleetwood on April 23, 2021, 01:34:05 AM
Did you know all your LED flashlights won't work? Glad I kept all my old MagLites, bulbs work, D batteries in stock.
No, I wasn't aware of that. But I hate those LED lights anyway, they are not as good as an old fashioned Maglite, and I've got at least 6 of those. Harder on batteries, but at least you can see what it's aimed at.
Who makes that HR4 oil? I don't believe I've ever heard of that before.
After the driveshaft is done, you've pretty much covered everything that rotates then. Did they go through the differential already? I don't recall if you had mentioned that previously or not.
Anyway, I hope the driveshaft rebuild takes care of your vibration issue.
Rick
I had my drive shaft rebuilt several years ago as a preventative maintenance plan I was on of having one thing addressed each year with my tax return. After 40 years of owning this car, which just happened this month, the only item I have left is the differential which will be done this summer.
HR4 is one of the "Driven" oils, Joe Gibbs. When they rebuilt my engine I asked them what oil to use
and what filter (WIX), CMA. This is what Jimmy Reid said to use, they used a Driven oil for the break in period. Be advised, the oil STINKS and its hard to find unless you go online.
https://drivenracingoil.com/
It looks like someone had the rear end opened previously, sloppy job with the Permatex sealer. Its not leaking, I don't hear any noise from there, the shop says they rarely see issues from there. "I" want them to open it up and take a peek. They're busy, we'll see if they have the time to placate me.
Pulling the cover and inspecting the differential is a good idea after all the other work you've had done on the Ark. It's true that not many problems occur with that design of axle. It's built like a truck axle with 3 pinion bearings and very thick axle shafts.
We're it mine, I'd want to know what it looks like inside. Changing the oil at the least anyway, and since it doesn't have a drain plug, the cover has to come off to do that. Peace of mind is worth that.
Thanks for the information on the HR4 oil too, it's good to know.
Rick
Quote from: Cadman-iac on April 23, 2021, 02:00:43 PM
Pulling the cover and inspecting the differential is a good idea after all the other work you've had done on the Ark. It's true that not many problems occur with that design of axle. It's built like a truck axle with 3 pinion bearings and very thick axle shafts.
We're it mine, I'd want to know what it looks like inside. Changing the oil at the least anyway, and since it doesn't have a drain plug, the cover has to come off to do that. Peace of mind is worth that.
Thanks for the information on the HR4 oil too, it's good to know.
Rick
I agree completely. I just have to get the shop to agree with me.
BTW I chose Faraday Defense "nesting" bags to keep The Ark's Pertronix module safe. Its the only
company that offers faraday bags who's actual business "is" protective textiles. YMMV
When I have a differential cover off, I see where there is
some space, and weld some really heavy wire inside. Then
I wrap the wire ends around a magnet, to catch any metal
that might be floating in the oil.
The TH400 was the best trans the General made for decades,
but not every year was the same. Those in my cars are a
combination of all the best features over a decade and a half
years of production, AND some stuff I invented. ONE THING
they did wrong, was to omit a drain.
My drain is not intended to get every drop out, rather it will
get all the oil above the pan and a gallon below the edge. That
will allow removing the pan without a mess, or pulling a drive
shaft. I DO NOT risk a failure of those add on drains, I braze
a 1/4 inch piece of steel inside, then drill and tap it for a 1/8
inch pipe threaded plug. good luck, Bruce Roe
Or an aftermarket pan with a drain plug, for those of us that cannot weld....
Quote from: Cadman-iac on April 23, 2021, 07:09:06 AM
Anyway, I hope the driveshaft rebuild takes care of your vibration issue.
Rick
The vibration issue was the tires, see the first post. The shaft has been leaking at the seal. Either the seal fails or the drive shaft fails the seal. Tranny was completely rebuilt before I bought I bought the car, made pointing the finger at the drive shaft pretty easy.