Newbie Cadillac owner and questions... Help

[Guidematic]

 I just read this thread, and want to commend Doug on a job well done.

However, I want to add a couple of things regarding the fuel filter replacement. It's imperative that you use a good line wrench on the fuel line to prevent rounding off of the nut, unless that has already happened. I find that Mac Tools makes the best line wrench out there.

Also, there is a special tool for holding and removing the filter housing from the carb. It resembles the cut open 1" wrench as previously described, but it is designed specifically for this function and works quite well. You should find it through Mac or most other tool vendors.

I cannot stress enough how important it is to be careful in reinstalling the filter housing into the carb. They are fine threads and easily damaged, so take your time to ensure that the threads have started correctly before using the wrench to tighten the housing. If the threads are crossed or stripped at the very least will create a fuel leak and require replacement of the entire carburetor. Also, do not over torque this nut as you can also strip the threads necessitating in a carb replacement. And make sure you replace the small nylon gasket at the end of the housing.

Mike

[Doug Spingelt]

I also had to replace the fule pump.  Mechanical, as it is carborated.  I was not lucky enough to limp anywhere.  I had to be towed home for $290.00 in the middle of the night.  that is a messy job. 

For the hood, there is a single spring (Completely insufficient to do the job) on the bottom side of the hood, more or less center right.  I can tell where that makes contact with the sill behind the grill.  I drilled a hole in the center and bolted a hard piece of rubber there.  I think also replacing the rubber side bumpers (there are four of them) helped, as did new adjustor bumpers in the front.  the old ones pere compressed, broken and/or missing.  they were only a few dollars. 

It is fun to be able to open the hood all by myself.  I want to do it every time I walk by the car just because it is possible.

I am only in month four of the fixing up.  we pulled ours out of the woods in someones back yard and bought it from craigslist, so it needed some TLC.  It is getting there though! 

My cruise controll is not connected and has no parts except the controller.  I may see about hooking it up.  new tires are in the budget first.  I also still do not have the heater valve working, so I installed a brass bypass valve on the heater hose as a temporary measure.

I am interested in hearing about the work on yours.  what colors?  mine is gossimer blue with white interior and white top. 

Good luck. 

[DaveShreiner CLC#23834]

I learned my lesson about fuel filters in the carburetor years ago on a 1980 Buick.  I applied a wrench before I had got the threads well started with the fingers.  That mistake stripped the threads and I had to buy a new carburetor. 

I see the coil spring in the front of the hood now.  I don't know why I forgot about it.  I think your idea of bolting a hard rubber disk on the strike plate would be very helpful in giving the hood a good start up.  I will check the other things you mentioned too.

I am getting an expert, to put a new top on for me at a cost of about $1500 for an Electron top with glass rear window.  The current top works but it is faded and somewhat shrunken, probably because it was stored with the top down, a no-no for convertibles.  My car has been sitting in a garage since 1997 in a town in rural Pennsylvania (the last inspection sticker shows this date), and it had 56,000 miles on the odometer.  It is golden reddish brown (has tiny gold specks in the paint) so it looks golden in the sun and red-brown in more diffused light.  The inside is more of an orange color. 

I like the colors of your car.  I had always wanted a convertible with a white interior and top, and blue is my favorite color. Wanna trade?  Just kidding.    The last time I took my car for a short trip to the bank and the auto parts store, 3 different people asked me about the car.  It does attract a lot of attention.  My first car was a 48 Chrysler convertible, and this Eldo is the only other convertible I have ever owned, a return to my teenage years of the mid 50s car culture.

I have replaced any questionable vacuum hoses, installed new spark plugs and wires, and adjusted the timing.  While I was doing the latter, I was dismayed to hear a valve start clicking and it wouldn't stop.  I added Lucas fuel additive to the gas tank, and a detergent in oil and Rislone valve oil to the engine oil.  I also topped off the tank with 92 octane fuel when the tank was about 2/3 full of 87 octane gas.   After driving it around a bit, the engine smoothed out and became very quiet and steady with much more power.  Of course one of the first things I did was change the oil and filter before any of this.  I am amazed at how fast the 500 CID engine can accelerate this heavy car. 

I don't think I am capable of detailing the engine compartment.  It looks pretty good as it is, except for the blue valve covers which have lost some paint in several areas.  The left valve cover was leaking engine oil, so I tightened the bolts.  Unfortunately, one bolt was sick and it was easy to twist the head off of it.  Now I have to use a screw extractor to get it out.

I tried adding some 134a refrigerant to the bone-dry Frigidair A/C and the pressure went high without the compressor turning on.  So far I have found no current going to the compressor, so I have to find out where the break is. 

The car has a battery that is too weak for this big engine, but it can turn it over, sometimes just barely.  It won't work unless it is fully charged so I am getting a more powerful battery. 

I am starting week 3 of my fixing up.  I am very excited about it and a day doesn't go by without me greasing up my fingers somehow.

[Doug Spingelt]

It looks like we are about inthe same boat... (intentional pun)  the paint on mine is completely deteriorated as are the febder and bumper fillers.  I have replaced all but the front, as the bumper is a little crooked and I don't think they will fit properly until that is straightened out.  As soon as I get them installed, it can go to paint, which will be so nice. 

It sounds like the body of yours is cherry. ours is not.  I even had to rebuild the window mechanisms.  for whatever reason I was able to being the top back to life for about 700.00.  I had a rip fixed, and had the new glass installed.  (glass with defrost)  that was broken.  the top works and looks almost brand new. 

future projects are: new carpet, redye the seats, new tires and paint.  Also maybe a fix for the 8track.  it is not working well.  It is going tobe an expensive Summer.  We may wait for winter to paint it as it is in a garage anyway. 

great to talk with someone with the same project! 

[DaveShreiner CLC#23834]

Hi Doug,

Yes, we are doing pretty much the same things.  I appreciate talking with you too about this.  Thanks for the suggestion about the rubber washer on the strike area of the front hood spring.  I replicated your technique and that was enough to pop the hood up on the first pull of the hood release.  Thanks for solving that problem.  I oiled the hood hinges and now the heavy hood doesn't want to stay up as well.  I should have left them dry, I suppose. 

The paint on my car is pretty good and the front plastic fillers had already been replaced.  The rear ones aren't too bad, but I think I will replace them because one has a small hole and the "chrome" trim around the plastic is not good.  The chrome elsewhere on the car is excellent.  My ragtop had no tears but it was a bit faded and shrunken, and there is a bent part in the left side support for the middle cross rail.  I decided a new top with this repair would be better than me trying to do it.  I was lucky to get a car that is still in pretty good shape. 

I installed a new battery because the old one was a bottom of the line battery that even with a full charge was a bit sluggish in working the starter motor.  The AM/FM radio has an 8-track that surprisingly does work.  My past experience with 8-tracks has been that the rubber belt deterioates with age like an old rubber band.  Usually they have to be replaced.  I couldn't figure out how to eject the tape cartridge until I recently got a 75 owners manual.  You have to pull out on the Off/On/Volume knob.  Does your radio have an up/down switch for the power antenna?  That was another surprise and that the antenna still does go up and down.

Now I am trying to get the A/C to work.  By a direct connection with the batter, I could get the compressor clutch to come on and turn the compressor, but I haven't been able to find out why it isn't getting current the way it's supposed to.  My electrical tester has decided to stop working so I have to get another.  It would help if I had the shop manual.  I'm looking for one now.

Another problem I haven't figured out is why the engine won't respond smoothly to acceleration until it has warmed up for 3 or 4 minutes.  The choke works OK and the vacuum lines to the carburetor are good, and the front and rear vacuum brake assemblies work.  I didn't check the idle load compensator yet.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Funny thing, I did a similar "adjustmen" to my '72 Eldo, but I used a piece of Shock Absorber Rubber to sit on the Radiator Support, and the spring lands on that, and now when I pull the cable, the hood pops every time.

Bruce.