Parade boot 75 Eldo

[76eldo]

Dave,

In my opinion, not much.  I think if you get the bolt out and use any grade 8 bolt with the proper thread it would be fine.  It's not seen, and the seatbelt would be secure.

As Dave mentioned, it is possible that the EZ-Out will snap off, so I would recommend getting a high quality set from Craftsman or Mac or Snap-on as opposed to Harbor Freight or any cheapie online source.

Good Luck,

Brian

[mgbeda]

Here's an alternative to the EZ out.  My boss used to do this with stripped bolts when I worked at a service station in the mid-80's.  Weld a chunk of metal to the stripped bolt and then use that to turn it out.  Since you are working right next to the seat it's probably better in this case to do this to the back side of the bolt, under the car.  Maybe even weld a nut onto the end of the bolt.  The heat will also help break the rust that is keeping the bolt from turning.  Once you get the bolt turning you can cut off what you welded there and get the bolt out the rest of the way with vise grips.

-mB

[DaveShreiner CLC#23834]

Thanks Brian and MB for the info.  I was thinking of using a heavy duty EZ-out like Brian suggested.  I know a mechanic who is good with welding, and he might even be able to loosen the bolt with just the heat.  At least he can weld something to the other end of the bolt.

This was a great learning experience! 

[76eldo]

You can soak it down with PB Blaster or any other type of penetrating oil.  I have also heard that regular Coke eats away at rust too.  If you get a propane torch or one that uses MAP gas you can get the bolt red hot, then let it cool.

I wouldn't get too worried about this.  The Torx center is a good start for a drill, and if you start with 1/4 inch, keep it straight, and increase the size of the bit you should be able to drill it out carefully and re-tap the hole.  I think there's a welded nut under there.  If you booger it up completely, you can drill a large enough hole to accommodate a bolt and use washers and a nut on the bottom.  If you have to go that far, size it carefully and use grade 8 hardware.

Brian

[Glen]

What is so unusual about the bolt shoulder being special to the seat belt holder?

I believe that the shoulder of the bolt is there to allow the seat belt anchor to swivel.  If it is held in one position it will have a tendency to put all the strain on one edge of the belt and that would weaken it.  The possibility of it tearing the material is much greater in that situation. 

[DaveShreiner CLC#23834]

I have soaked the bolts with PB Blaster, but that wasn't enough this time, even after several applications and letting it soak a couple of days.  The bolts sticking out on the underside of the body are not easy to get at because the frame overlies them.  There is no visible hex nut, but there is something welded to the body that the bolt goes through.  The bolt is so tight to the seat belt retraction unit that there is no chance for it to swivel.

I think I will try to drill and use a high quality, heavy EZ-out.  The bolt seems to be about 1/2 inch diam (+- 1/16 in) so a fairly large hole can be made for the EZ-out.

[DaveShreiner CLC#23834]

So much for drilling case-hardened bolts.  I got nowhere with a new drill bit, so I can't drill it out nor use an EZ-out.  My next step is my professional mechanic who can weld something onto the bolts.

[76eldo]

 
Dave,

Why are we taking the back seat out?

At this point it may be cheaper to get a new top.  They have to get the seat out to do that.

If you get a really good 1/4 inch bit for drilling hardened metal you should be able to do this.

Brian

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

There are drills made for such tough steel, and I have a set that you could borrow, but it would be cheaper to buy them yourself.

Mine will drill through Files, Glass, hardened steel, etc, and it is all about the speed, and lubricant used.   These drills are sharpened a special way, and are made out of some sort of treated steel.

Normal drills just won't cut-it.

Bruce.

[DaveW]

Dave,

I have a set of cobalt drills that have worked for me in the past for drilling hardened steel.  This may be the drill material that Bruce was referring to.

Dave

[DaveShreiner CLC#23834]

I have heard of cobalt drill bits, never had any, but I will see if I can get them.  The new bits I had just didn't do much at all. 

The top was replaced last year, and obviously the guy who did it did not have to remove the back seat.  These bolts have rust on the ends under the body that show they had never been removed in recent years.  I want the back seat out to tighten the large bolts that hold the side rails and gears on the frame.  The nuts for these bolts have cotter pins to hold their position, but the one on the driver's side is missing and it seems too loose.  According to the online article about scissor tops, tightening this bolt improves performance of the top.  The problem with my top is that the infolding rails on the driver's side hit the plastic coated bar in the down position.  This seems to prevent full lowering of the top and prevent using the parade boot.

Thanks for the advice!

[DaveShreiner CLC#23834]

The colbalt drill bit did not work much better in this big bolt.  I tried pushing down the top with the hard boot and was able to get it on without breaking anything.  So I am happy.