Points to electronic ignition

[bcroe]

I would just leave the resistance wire in place, but connect a regular
wire at both ends, in parallel.  Makes it easy to backtrack if there is
ever a reason to do so.  Bruce Roe

[V63]

I have had more than a few failures with 12v pet tonic, specifically the magnets glued to the trigger ring will fall out. I’ve had as many as 4 fall out. The item was warranted and the replacement failed too. Later I epoxied over all the magnets and solved that issue. Further...I’ve had no luck with 6 volt conversions at all.

[Chuck Swanson]

I have used this on many cars.  Use with stock coil:
https://www.carid.com/lectric-limited/breakerless-se-electronic-ignition-conversion-mpn-38131.html

Chuck

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

The points car should run in the unfortunate event of an emp. 

Nice to know I'm not the only one who thinks this way... 

The Ark felt like a new engine was installed when Gary ripped out the Petronix
and put it back on its biblical points. (All NAPA parts) YMMV

\m/
Laurie

[35-709]

Of the 5 or 6 Pertronix systems I have installed over the years, I have never had a failure.

I'm going to give the one Chuck Swanson linked to a try the next time.

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

FWIW, Although installing a Pertronix assembly in a "points" distributor is "foolproof", there is one item in the instructions that some people either ignore or just pass over.  That is the air gap dimension called for.  In all honesty I have never really noticed any improvement of performance using the pointless kits, but it sure helps in wet weather and that is why I would do the conversions on my cars.
The lesson regarding air gap was learned by not following instructions and having a car run "crappy". The erratic magnetic field gives you erratic spark.
Greg Surfas

[wrench]

Of the 5 or 6 Pertronix systems I have installed over the years, I have never had a failure.

I'm going to give the one Chuck Swanson linked to a try the next time.

I have done a few pertronix conversions with success. On the 51, the weak link under the cap is the pencil lead conductor on the rotor that can come loose.

The last points conversion I did was on my 69 Eldorado using the Lectric Limited unit.

Seems to work fine, was a little tricky to put the two halves of the target together and I am reasonably dexterous.

The reason I tried it was the pertronix unit for the 472 requires removal
And disassembly of the distributor, the Lectric unit did not require removal of the distributor.

[bcroe]

I have done a few pertronix conversions with success.

Does that conversion use the stock coil, but with the ballast
resistor shorted out?  Bruce Roe

[wrench]

Does that conversion use the stock coil, but with the ballast
resistor shorted out?  Bruce Roe

None of the conversions I have done had ballast resistors, they were all resistor wire setups.

But yes, stock coils, but also used Pertonix Flame thrower coils...

[bcroe]

None of the conversions I have done had
ballast resistors, they were all resistor wire setups.   

Right but do you remove/short out the ballast for the conversion? 

Bruce Roe

[wrench]

I leave the wire and find a switched 6v or 12v source ....

[Jamurray]

There's more than enough on this subject that I'm reluctant to add a lengthy description of my ill-fated Petronix experience. I drove my '70 from Connecticut to California twice on my conversion, and my only problem was vapor lock - something I didn't know until my second trip.

My Petronix did not just stop. I had plenty of warning. The  symptoms mimicked timing gear or chain failure. You'd be amazed at how much of an engine you can take apart, and how long it can take you lying on a creeper before you make a phone call to Petronix.

I went back to points. I will admit it started and ran well before it didn't run well and finally didn't start.