'71 Eldorado: No spark

[wbdeford]

All ready to test the exhaust repair and set timing and now the car won't start.  Definitely getting fuel, but no spark. 

I hooked up a tachometer during cranking--stayed on 0 RPMs. 
I connected a timing light (first to the #8 wire, then to the coil to distributor cap wire), and held the button while cranking--no flash. 
Tested connectivity from + coil terminal to - battery terminal and there is connectivity (is that supposed to be??)
Tested Pertronix connection at - coil terminal and that is good.

Connected ohmmeter between - coil terminal and - battery cable.  With distributor cap off and ignition switch on, I moved the rotor back and forth, causing the
Pertronix magnetic ring to move over the module.  This successfully made and broke the connection to the battery as I moved it, so the ignitor seems good also.

Is it possible to install the distributor one tooth off from where it should be on the cam such that the rotor would never be at a terminal when it fires?  I don't see how that could be, but thought I'd ask anyway.

Tested coil resistance and that seems good also.

What am I missing??

[Dave Shepherd]

 Do you have 12v at the coil pos. term. when cranking?

[Scot Minesinger]

Believe me I know your pain.

This same thing happened to me on the 72 Eldorado, removed distributor (car ran fine before) and car would not start after it was reinstalled.  Lost a couple hours I will never get back on that one.  It sounds not logical, but...  Turns out it was counterfeit Pertronix unit, replaced it with genuine Petronix and it fired right up.  Weird on the car, but replaced it and it started.  Of course yours might not be the electronic ignition.  Take a close look at what you did and anything that was changed, touched needs to be looked at closely.

[wbdeford]

I have 12 volts with ignition On.  It drops to about 8 while cranking. 

The Pertronix was working great until I got the distributor out.  Based on my tests, it seems to be still working.

[wbdeford]

Everything seems to be pointing to the coil....do coils break just like that sometimes? 

Since writing the above....

I rechecked the coil (not sure how I missed this the first time) and there is an open between the positive and negative terminals.  I had a little bit of trouble getting the Pertronix cable off the negative terminal when I removed the distributor--guessing I damaged the terminal.

[bcroe]

Is it possible to install the distributor one tooth off from where it should be on the cam such that the rotor would never be at a terminal when it fires?  I don't see how that could be, but thought I'd ask anyway. 

The phasing between the rotor and the points or pickup is fixed inside the distributor.  It won't
change no matter how you plug it into the engine, you just need to get the timing right.  Bruce Roe

[wbdeford]

Thanks, guys....new coil and it fired right up after only about a second of cranking.  Timing now set very close to where it should be--still need to clean the indicator marks to get it exact.  Exhaust leak seems at least mostly gone.

[walt chomosh #23510]

I bought a genuine Petronix coil when I installed their system(along with their plug wires),and,fortunately I carried my original 1955 coil in the trunk...the Petronix failed just after loading all of my wife's groceries in my car! The 60yr old Delco coil performed fine.....walt...tulsa,ok

[wbdeford]

I think my original coil is fine internally, but damaged at the negative terminal.