1929 still won't start

[BillhymerMD]

Well the process of getting my 1929 341-b running is progressing. I obtained a rebuilt original distributor with tower from Rods of the Valley...thanks Rod. That was a tough find. I installed the distributor and set the timing (number 1 cylinder TDC , locked the CAM in place at position 1 just past the first point break). Also, got rid of the old oil filter and installed a screw on NAPA 1051 with adapter. That took a few trips to True Value hardware store to make that work. Tried to start the car...no spark. Confirmed voltage to coil but not a whole lot coming out of coil. So I replaced 6volt coil. Now spark with misfire. No start. Hmmm. I made new spark plug wires but no change...it turns over and misfires now and then. Fuel is getting to engine...has an electric fuel pump that is confirmed to be working. I checked the firing order and the distributor seems to be set up correctly. I confirmed the spark plugs are sparking and there is compression. I believe the timing is correct and I verified I have spark and compression but the car still wont run; it will misfire.  I have now started to focus more on the fuel delivery side.  The vacuum pump was bipassed with an electric fuel pump.  It has a psi regulator and Ive tried all settings, 1 - 5.  I feel like the engine is flooding even at 1 psi becuase when I stop cranking the engine I hear a bunch of fuel exiting the engine on the bottom through a small metal tupe coming out of the block.  Does the carb need a rebuild or am I missing something else?

[Bobby B]

Bill,
  Hi. Try not using any fuel pump at all, and dumping a little gas down the carb to see if it sounds any better when it tries to crank over. Most common mistake of starting up a new engine after a rebuild  is to have the distributor installed 180 degrees out. It has the same symptoms that you're describing. Take out the #1 plug and double triple check that you have compression coming up on that cylinder when your rotor is coming up on the #1 plug position in your distributor cap tower. Even 1 tooth off might throw it out of the range of adjustment that your distributor allows. I don't know your specific engine, but this is also a symptom of a timing chain crank-to-cam relationship being off.
                                                                                                                                                               Bobby

[Glen]

Is this car designed for a vacuum tank for the fuel?  If so, then the fuel pressure is probably too high. 
If the tank is say 18" above the carb and Gasoline has a Specific gravity of 0.74, the pressure at the float valve would be 0.48 psi.  So a pressure of 1 psi could be over powering the float valve and flooding the carb. The pressure would be even less if the tank is not that high above the carb. 
Try putting gas in a container and suspending it from the same location as the vacuum tank and using that to run the car as a trial.  If the car runs, then you have your answer.  If not then you have at least eliminated that possibility. 

[BillhymerMD]

Appreciate all the input guys...I turned the distributor cam 180 degrees and now it's running without sputter.  Thank you and hope to see you in Vegas.