Alternator? Generator

[55 cadi]

Hello all,

'55 331
My generator is making some noise and see a little more spark than usual at the back of it, checked and it seems to be putting out current.

If I send out to be checked is it possible to install an alternator in its place?

Jason

[Dan LeBlanc]

Totally reversible and can be done in about 1/2 an hour until your generator comes back:

1. Remove Gen, Regulator and wiring from car and place in storage (don't throw away)
2. Remove lower bracket attached to manifold
3. Turn bracket to face opposite direction and reinstall on manifold
4. Purchase a common three Wire Alternator with upper and lower tabs
5. Attach lower tab to front of bracket on manifold (formerly rear of bracket)
6. Attach upper tab to adjustable upper bracket coming off the engine block
7. Use washers to true pulleys if necessary

If going to a parts store, ask for a 1983 Olds Delta 88 with the 305 alternator. Otherwise, if you get some nut job who doesn’t know what they’re talking about and say you’re converting your Cadillac from a generator system to an alternator system, they’ll give you a blank stare. To use the idiot light, you'll need the three wire setup this car used. You'll also need to buy a 3" (possibly 3/8"-16) bolt for the bottom tab of the alternator as the stock one just isn't long enough. True-up the pulleys with either 3 or 4 flat washers between the lower tab and bracket you just reversed and slightly bend the top link outward at the bend closest to the water pump and inward at the bend closest to the alternator to get it to meet the alternator at the right point for the bolt hole to line up and not put stress on the top tab of the alternator..

For the hookup, you'll find three terminals - Bat (+) 1 (sometimes labeled R) and 2 (sometimes labeled F).

Connect the Bat (+) terminal to the battery via a fusible link using a minimum of 8AWG wire.

Terminal 1 or R, is the relay terminal that your idiot light works with. Connect the brown wire from the vehicle's main wiring harness that used to connect to the generator to this terminal. It needs to have some sort of resistance â€" the light bulb is fine.

Terminal 2 or F is the field terminal. This should be connected to a central point in the electrical system as it monitors the voltage in the system and "excites" the alternator into operation if the voltage in the system falls below a preset value. Ideally this would be where all accessories connect to the vehicle and, since it doesn't carry much of a load, a 14AWG wire is sufficient. A good place to connect would be at the main power wire to the fuse box as this is the main point where all the accessories connect and is the most accurate point to measure voltage based on the load placed on the system.

Terminal 2 can also be connected to the BAT terminal for simplicity of installation; however, the alternator won't necessarily be regulating the overall system's voltage. It usually doesn't make a difference if you connect here or at the fuse box, just one point is more accurate at regulating the voltage than the other.

[bcroe]

'55 331
My generator is making some noise and see a little more spark than usual
at the back of it, checked and it seems to be putting out current.

If I send out to be checked is it possible to install an alternator in its place?
Jason     

I would just get a set of brushes & a front bearing.  Probably installing those
will do it if the commutator isn't damaged yet, and nothing has shorted. 
With the high maintenance on generators, I kept an extra ready to just
swap in.  If I went to the trouble of converting to an alternator, I'd leave
it permanently.  Bruce Roe

[55 cadi]

Thank you Dan and Bruce,

Thanks dan for the perfect detailed instructions, that's the kinda instructions that help make things easier.

The generator has been rebuilt because it has the Co. Sticker on it.

Is replacing bearing and brushes semi easy?

Jason

[bcroe]

The generator has been rebuilt because it has the Co. Sticker on it.

Is replacing bearing and brushes semi easy?   Jason   

In my opinion its pretty straightforward. Clean it all out.  Its esp easy
if the front bearing is in perfect shape (a rebuilt, might be able to wait
another 30,000 miles), because then you don't need to take the pulley
off to get to the bearing.  Bruce Roe

[walt chomosh #23510]

J,
  Let me add my 2cents....I drove my 55CDV for a year or two before having my gen rebuilt by a "old timer" locally who has been in the business for over 40yrs.(he rebuilt my Harley gen over 25yrs ago and I've been all over the country on the bike and never had a problem!) Well,his rebuild on my Cadillac gen failed so I returned and he went thru it again. It failed again.(not to mention having radio problems with the high/low voltage it was playing on) (he told me that the Chinese parts he was receiving nowdays weren't up to snuff)
  NOBODY wants breakdowns.(my car is a driver) I put an alternator on it(same one as I have on my 64Chevelle,63A I believe) and I've NEVER had a problem since and radio has been fine.....walt.....tulsa,ok

[bcroe]

AMEN to that.  Increased reliability & much reduced maintenance were the incentives
for converting my 62.  As soon as the electronic, internally regulated alts were in the
junk yard, an upgrade got rid of the mechanical Voltage reg & wiring too.  It didn't hurt
that the alt was so much lighter and eliminated the radio noise.  Bruce Roe

[Jon S]

I've had no problems with my generator in 86,000 miles.  Do you oil the two cups periodically?

[55 cadi]

Jon,

No I have not oiled, i honestly didn't realize it needed oil.

I will have to think what I want more, new alt or have orig sent out, maybe find nos parts on auction site.

[bcroe]

I've had no problems with my generator in 86,000 miles.  Do you oil the two cups periodically? 

I have only sealed bearing on that equipment, however I do oil some cups added
to the blower motor to preserve it.  With that mileage it would be good to check
if the brushes need replacement.  One of my brushes got too short and broke
the brush holder, making a simple project a lot more difficult.  Bruce Roe

[Jon S]

Jon,

No I have not oiled, i honestly didn't realize it needed oil.

I will have to think what I want more, new alt or have orig sent out, maybe find nos parts on auction site.

Well, there are two schools of thought. If you want to keep the car authentic, generator; if not, alternator. The generators work just fine.

[Jon S]

I have only sealed bearing on that equipment, however I do oil some cups added
to the blower motor to preserve it.  With that mileage it would be good to check
if the brushes need replacement.  One of my brushes got too short and broke
the brush holder, making a simple project a lot more difficult.  Bruce Roe

I bought NOS replacement brushes a while back - will check how mine look - thanks!

[J. Gomez]

Is replacing bearing and brushes semi easy?

Jason

Jason,

It is not that hard as other folks have mention above.

If you buy the kit with brushes, bearing and the brass bushing (rear), the new bearing most likely would be the seal type, so no oil is required and you can leave the oil cup and wick in place. 

For the rear brass bushing you will need to insert the new one and drill a hole (at an angle at the edge of the bushing), you can use the exiting oil hole and a steady hand. That would be the most complicated task. 

You will need to clean any dirt/debris in between the gaps on the commutator, electrical contact cleaner (non-grease type) should do it.

Make sure the insulators for the “F” and “A” terminals are in good condition.

Once everything is put back you can do a quick test before putting the generator back.

Using a good 12V battery connect the “+” side to the “A” terminal on the generator and the “-“to the generator case, this will make the generator react as a motor. Be careful as there is a lot or torque once the connections are made, make sure if properly secured.

Good luck..!

[wearymicrobe]

If you have a cast iron bracket and do the flip method above and you are not 100% dead on in your centering of the pulley its gong to break I can tell you from experience. On the 57's you have to clearance the bracket it as well if anybody is reading this in the future.