News:

Reminder to CLC members, please make sure that your CLC number is stored in the relevant field in your forum profile. This is important for the upcoming change to the Forums access, More information can be found at the top of the General Discussion forum. To view or edit your profile details, click on your username, at the top of any forum page. Your username only appears when you are signed in.

Main Menu

1976 Eldorado- starting problems

Started by LenInLA, September 05, 2016, 04:40:45 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

LenInLA

It takes a few pumps on the gas to start the car. When I maneuver in a tight spot in a parking garage, it sometimes stalls.

The mechanic said that the carb had been adjusted from the factory numbers. He said that there was no reason for it; and adjusted it back to the factory numbers.  No effect.

Any ideas? I'm also trying to figure out why the numbers were adjusted in the first place.

Thanks!

Leonard Grayver

TJ Hopland

Did he say what adjustments were wrong?   I am assuming he didn't take the carb apart so he was just setting the base idle speed and idle mixtures?

How long has it been since the carb was rebuilt and how much faith in the quality of the rebuilder?

When was the last time the igniton system was checked?   Things like age of components, is the mechanical advance working correctly,  vacuum advance,  vacuum lines related to vacuum advance,  egr? 
73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI, over 30 years of ownership and counting
Somewhat recently deceased daily drivers, 80 Eldo Diesel & 90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

V63

There's not an  'easy' answer.

Verify...Is it flooding?

Could be vacuum leak to carb issues.

I would start with verifying no vacuum leaks, could be from numerous sources. Those carbs were bad for leaking down thru soft plugs in the well...i epoxy them when i get the chance. The foam floats were also an issue

76eldo

It's a carb on a 76 Cadillac.
Yes it requires a few pumps to start. One pump at least to snap the choke shut and set up the high idle. Modern injected cars have fuel squirting as soon as you turn the key.  What you have is some fuel in the float bowl and when you pump it a few times that's how some fuel gets into the manifold. If the car site for a few days your float bowl is empty.

Cranking gets fuel in the carb.

Check to see if the idle is too low.

Brian

Brian Rachlin
Huntingdon Valley, Pa
I prefer email's not PM's rachlin@comcast.net

1960 62 Series Conv with Factory Tri Power
1970 DeVille Conv
1970 Eldo
1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino"
1973 Eldorado Conv Pace Car
1976 Eldorado Conv
1980 Eldorado H & E Conv
1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2)
2008 DTS
2012 CTS Coupe
2017 XT
1956 Thunderbird
1966 Olds Toronado

Scot Minesinger

The shop manual states (as one possible problem) that fast idle is not quite high enough.  Had the same problem on a 76 carb even after I rebuilt it.  Quarter turn and all was good.  Might (emphasize might) be that.  Your car starts (dose not suffer starting issues), just stalls when cold and under load, so for me the fast idle screw made it all better.
Fairfax Station, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible
1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

savemy67

Hello Len,

As Brian said, a carburetor equipped car needs at least one pump of the gas pedal to set the choke.  If you have not driven your car in several days, the fuel bowl in the carb may be empty due to a leak or evaporation.

When you maneuver in tight spaces, the power steering pump goes from providing almost no assist to maximum assist.  The car is also most likely not making much forward or rearward progress.  Although not probable, these two conditions could combine to put enough strain on the engine to cause it to stall.  This can be overcome with a properly adjusted carburetor.

The mechanic who adjusted the carb may not have thought about why the carb was adjusted differently from factory specs prior to his "correction".  Perhaps something about the condition of the car called for the carb specs to be different from factory specs.

As others have stated, the carburetor may  be in need of adjustment or a rebuild.  If you consider the latter, there are a few places you can send the carb to, so that it can be reliably rebuilt.  You can search this forum for recommendations, or just ask.  Given that the mechanic who re-adjusted your carb, did so without inquiring as to why the adjustments were different from factory specs, and didn't correct your problem, I might not consider that mechanic when thinking about a carb rebuild.

Respectfully submitted,
Christopher Winter
Christopher Winter
1967 Sedan DeVille hardtop

bcroe

And of course if it still has the original timing chain set, it is way overdue
to be replaced.  Check it out.  Bruce Roe

Scot Minesinger

Adding on to Bruce, if power steering hoses are not replaced (original), they need to be as they are a fire hazard.  I routinely replace any original power steering hose on my Cadillacs.  This is especially true on the Eldorado, as some of my friends have suffered a fire.
Fairfax Station, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible
1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

"Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364

Len,
In all probability the idle speed is set a rev or two low.  You said "factory numbers". What numbers are you talking about?  There were three distinctly different carbs in 76.  Do you have the number of your carb? It should end in 230, 530 or 232. 
In regards to the pumping the gas, that sounds normal, and to add on to what has been suggested, I would carefully check your muffler bearings while you are at it.
Greg Surfas
Cadillac Kid-Greg Surfas
Director Modified Chapter CLC
CLC #15364
66 Coupe deVille (now gone to the UK)
72 Eldo Cpe  (now cruising the sands in Quatar)
73 Coupe deVille
75 Coupe deElegance
76 Coupe deVille
79 Coupe de ville with "Paris" (pick up) option and 472 motor
514 inch motor now in '73-