Electrical Connectors

[Georges63cad]

Hello to all, would anyone know where I can get electrical pigtail connectors for my 63 Cad. I'm having trouble with my taillights and front lights because the connectors are bad or worn out. Some lights don't work but when I play around with the connectors the lights (front and rear turn signals and back up lights) go on and off.  We pulled off the connectors and they are all corroded, plus the plastic connector is in bad shape. Also I have a back-up socket that isn't working right. It doesn't spring up when I put the bulb in, it's stays loose. I'd hate to buy the whole wiring harness just for the connectors and I don't see an easy way to fix the socket except replace it. That should be fun. Thanks to all.

[bcroe]

When the socket is loose but otherwise OK, I have fixed a few by
using a soldering iron to build up a much higher contact bump on
bulbs.  Bruce Roe

[Georges63cad]

Hi Bruce, the thing is the socket's spring inside is shot. Will putting more solder on the little nubs keep it in the socket tight? Ya know, thinking about it just might work.

[G Pennington]

YnZ Yesterdays Parts (in CA) sells all kinds of wiring stuff including kits to repair the sockets. 

[Georges63cad]

Good morning Gary, thank you very much.....I will check them out.

[Georges63cad]

 Found the connector I was looking for. Now I'm looking for a turn signal switch that's inside the column w/tilt. Looked plenty of places but no luck yet.

[Jay Friedman]

Another source might be https://www.restorationstuff.com/

[Georges63cad]

Thanks Jay, I'll check it out.

[fishnjim]

You can get most of that stuff from your local NAPA through the Balkamp or Belden catalogue(?).  Probably won't be on the computer without a P/N.   I ordered female crimp clips and socket covers locally.   They were correct.  You just need to know what "number" was used on your car.   AuVeCo makes stuff, splices, etc. also.
I got a nice set of crimpers from Del City.   You need a special die to do those neat double folds, one for the wire, one for the insulation.   SAE, if I recall, recommends to crimp, not solder, for better vibration resistance.   I've seen the standard, but I'd have to look it up again.   But factory is done by machine presses, so much more uniform.  I know Packard/Delphi used solder dips on some things like wire ends.   Arthritic hands, I like a touch of solder after crimp and shrink wrap to hold everything.
You need to check your wire also, it could be broke inside and wiggling gets it connected.   If the insulation is stiff or brittle, it's time for the big redo.   It'll only get worse from there and you don't want it catching fire from a short.   Once the insulation is cracked, the wire starts to oxidize inside and that causes resistance, resistance causes heat, repeat until it flames up.

[Georges63cad]

Hello fishnjim,  the big redo??? Does that mean a new wiring harness?

[Cadillac Fleetwood]

Found the connector I was looking for. Now I'm looking for a turn signal switch that's inside the column w/tilt. Looked plenty of places but no luck yet.

PM sent.

Charles Fares