48 Hydra - Matic rear seal removal.. HELP

[Bill Kaufman CLC# 15225]

I am in the process of replacing a leaky Rear Oil Seal on my 48 Club Coupe's Tranny. I am having a heck of a problem removing the old seal. I have tried a seal puller tool , screw driver etc.. and have had no luck getting it out. I need to mention that the transmission is still in the car so as you know the X frame really limits my access. Plus I am on my back in the driveway. Can someone out there please offer any tips or tricks to getting the old seal out.   Thanks for any advice .  Bill

[Bobby B]

Bill,
Hi. That seal is recessed like 3/4" and has the "boot" around the output shaft. I would screw 2 self-tapping sheet metal screws 180 degrees apart and try yanking/wiggling it out with some vice grips on the screws. If it won't budge, try some longer, heavier screws that protrude past the output shaft and use a slide hammer with the puller shoe adapter on the end. Good Luck!
                                                                         Bobby

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

As for using a slide hammer, it will be necessary to fit a long extension so that you can insert it through the X Member, and attack it straight on.

Bruce.

PS.   The extension will have to be made, and should be at least 4 feet long.

[Bill Kaufman CLC# 15225]

Thanks Bob and Bruce,  Great Ideas. I will try the self tappers and vise grips first. I have a heavy duty 3' slide hammer that I think I can add length to. 

[Bobby B]

The extension will have to be made, and should be at least 4 feet long.

Bruce,
If the "X" frame is similar to the '47, the rear opening curve is 10" from the trans seal and wide open. You could almost stick your head in there. Obviously easier to do out of car, but with a little patience, it could be done.
                                        Bobby

[Jay Friedman]

Obviously easier to do out of car, but with a little patience, it could be done.
                                        Bobby

Starting in 1946 that seal is the same in Hydramatic and stick shift transmissions.  Some years ago I removed the seal from my '49's stick transmission with the rear transmission housing out of the car.  Using a long, thick shaft and a hammer, and whacking at it from the front side of the housing, it needed many heavy blows with the hammer before it came out.  The seal was really in there solidly on my car.

[Bobby B]

Starting in 1946 that seal is the same in Hydramatic and stick shift transmissions.  Some years ago I removed the seal from my '49's stick transmission with the rear transmission housing out of the car. 

Jay,
Removing the Tail housing on a Hydra-Matic is a little more involved than on a standard trans.
                                                                                                Bobby

[fishnjim]

Brute force and working in the driveway isn't always the best approach, especially if you end up messing something up.   Screwing in screws and yanking on a vice grip won't be even force and risks damaging and wedging the seal.   Depends how long its been in there, if it'll come out easily due corrosion, galling, freezing, etc.   We have a saying in engineering, "the proper amount of dynamite properly applied will remove anything" but it's overkill here.
Suppose if it was pressed in?   Need the clearances to tell.
I suspect with the shaft in there, it's a much harder task and TS probably best off for easy removal - access from both sides and middle.   That way you could use a two arm puller or press also so it pulls/pushes evenly.   Installing the new seal is even more critical to get it right or it'll leak again or worse.
What about going to a trans garage with a lift and the tools?  Repair approach needs some research.   Is there a shop manual for this?  That would tell you if frame clearance and if it can be done on the car or not?  Might have had a tool back in the day for this, also.   I suspect it's fiber seal era and those are different than today's "pop 'em" lip seals.

[Caddy Wizard]

Honestly, that tail shaft seal is a beast to get out.  It is installed with an interference fit.  I used a tool that has a foot at one end that can slip behind the seal and has a hammer lug half way along its length that can be beat on with a hammer.  3pound hammer is about right.  Very, very tough job.  Almost impossible on your back under the car.

[Bobby B]

Brute force and working in the driveway isn't always the best approach, especially if you end up messing something up.   
Suppose if it was pressed in? 
What about going to a trans garage with a lift and the tools? 

A. Agreed. Working on your back is not Fun, but most of us do it.
B. Not "pressed" in. It's Wacked in with a hammer and the proper diameter piece of pipe, etc. It sits recessed around the shaft.
C. Would have been my first suggestion, but Bill said "He's" in the process, not the transmission shop. Maybe it would be a good idea to let a shop do it.

Jim,
No need to overthink this seal replacement. It's not a complicated job, it just involves a little ingenuity and patience with the trans in the car. You can fabricate an installation tool with a proper sized pipe coupling and handle. Pulling off the rear housing off with the reverse assembly would be my last resort.
             Bobby

[Bill Kaufman CLC# 15225]

Thanks everyone.   I just finished the job as I speak. I tried the screw trick with a slide hammer but with no luck. The screws eventually just ripped out of the seal lip. I ended up using a small thin blade screw driver to push the seal towards the middle all the way around the seal and after about 4 hours was able to finally get a pair of gator vise grip on a piece of the torn seal and using the frame as leverage was able to get it out. I cleaned the seal race and noticed some burring from my screwdriver so I used emory cloth to smooth it out. I then used some RV sealant around the outside of the new seal just in case. The drive shaft went back together nicely. Like many of you, I take pride in doing the all work myself. That is the part of the hobby that I really enjoy. BUT, next time I have a leaky rear seal on a Hydramatic that has been sitting in the dirt for 30+ years I am taking the car to someone with a lift.   ha    Thanks for every ones suggestions and help. Mission Accomplished !!

[Big Fins]

Good job! Now you can look at it and say "I beat you, you didn't beat me". Self satisfaction is a great feeling.

[Bobby B]

Bill,
Hey, Good deal! I'm Glad it worked out for you. Frustrating sometimes, but if you think of the time to drop the car off, get a ride home, go back and pick it up, and hope that they did it correctly, it's sometimes better to tackle these easy but PITA jobs yourself. Like John said, the satisfaction alone is worth it!
                                                     Bobby

[Bill Kaufman CLC# 15225]

I agree,   Even after a real knuckle buster , it is such a great moment when you can say " I DID IT  AND YOU DID NOT BEAT ME    !!   Time to reward myself with an ice cold adult beverage.. 

[savemy67]

Hello Bill,

I just wrestled a '58 Hydra-Matic out of the trunk of my car this evening.  I couldn't find my chainfall, or a neighbor to help, so I had to do the Archimedes thing with some wood.  Glad you were able to remove the seal.

Cheers.

Christopher Winter

[Bobby B]

Hello Bill,

I just wrestled a '58 Hydra-Matic out of the trunk of my car this evening.  I couldn't find my chainfall, or a neighbor to help, so I had to do the Archimedes thing with some wood.  Glad you were able to remove the seal.

Chris,
I prefer the Sisyphus method myself.......
                                          Bobby

[Jay Friedman]

Sometimes you just have to show a Cadillac who the boss is.