A.C.Delco power sterring fluid ???

[Bill Balkie 24172]

Hello ,
   Is there another brand that is the same as AC delco Fluid ?

     Thanks ,
          Bill

[TJ Hopland]

Are you asking because you are reading the original manual for what type of fluid to use and all it says its AC Delco with no more details or clues what the modern equivalent may be?

[Bill Balkie 24172]

Yes,
     Bill

[Jon S]

What year Cadillac are we talking - 1970?  For my 1958 it was Type A transmission fluid.

[Mike Josephic CLC #3877]

There are some differences between power
steering fluid and transmission fluid, mainly
in the detergents and friction modifiers.

However, that being said, in cars made prior
to 1980, those older PS systems are fine with
using ATF.  In newer vehicles with more
sophisticated designs (such as rack & pinion, etc.)
the PS system should have the proper fluid.

Mike

[Bill Balkie 24172]

Recently I had to disconnect my  low pressure hose to change a clamp and the fluid looked to
Be an auburn in color . I lost the amount that was in the hose . Now not sure what to replace it with . Unless i drain the whole system .

   Bill

[Mike Josephic CLC #3877]

If it's your 1970, top it up with transmission
fluid and forget about it.  That's what I've done
for years without issue.

Mike

[Bill Balkie 24172]

Thank you Mike

[EAM 17806]

If it's your 1970, top it up with transmission
fluid and forget about it.  That's what I've done
for years without issue.

Mike

Why not use what the car manufacturers state to use as the proper fluid called " POWER STEERING FLUID" made by Prestone and many other name brand fluid companies; incidentally,  AC Delco is more than likely made and produced in Communist China - do you guys/gals still trust it's quality today?  EAM
'

[Flyer]

AC Delco Power Steering fluid is still available at most GM dealers and many auto parts stores price will vary from $10-15 a quart. Why not use what the manufacturer calls for when available? Is there a better product?

[TJ Hopland]

I would agree with what I think others have said here that for most of the Cadillac's we are talking about it really doesn't seem to matter.  I have used Dex/Mec trans fluid.  I have used various brands of PS fluid as well as hydraulic fluids and not noticed any difference.   I have likely even mixed all of the above and not noticed anything.   I think our pumps are usually well broke in and I don't think the recirculating ball steering boxes are that picky either. 

I would note that anyone with the hydroboost brakes (76-78 Eldo) should really make sure they keep up on fresh fluid and on those I have stayed with PS fluid.   The brake boosters have several seals and pistons in them that need to be kept happy.  They are pretty reliable units but are kinda like carbs in that it can be difficult to find someone that knows how to properly repair one.   Lots of horror stories out there of multiple units being changed out all coming back with different problems including screwing up the power steering response.   Lots of fun driving 5000+ pounds around not knowing when or if the power brakes and steering are going to randomly quit on you. 

One thing I have been doing for the last 20 or so years is every time I change the oil I also use some sort of sucking device to suck all the fluid out of the reservoir then replace it with fresh fluid.  I know its not as good as a full flush but its a heck of a lot easier and less messy.   I figure most of these system go 100K miles on original fluid with no issues so if I change 1/4 to 1/3 of it every 3K that should help and so far it hasn't seemed to hurt anything.   When I buy a new to me car I will do that then start it and cycle the wheels then exchange again and repeat till the fluid looks better.   On the hydroboost cars I will usually also do one extra cycle but since mine are diesels you have to start the engine as part of doing fuel filters so I have the engine running anyway. 

For a sucking tool you can buy one of those 'mighty vac' like tools which every DIY car person should own anyway or head to the $1 store and get a turkey baster.  You need to use the $1 store ones because most of them will be 1 time use when exposed to auto fluids.   If you do a lot of engine related DIY stuff I would highly recommend a much larger machine that is usually sold as a 'top side' oil changer. 

There are many brands of this tool now available from many places and I would say is a must have.  You can test and fix various vacuum systems on the car like the vacuum advance or heating and AC controls.   You can bleed brakes.   You can also change small fluids like PS.  Prices range $10-$50
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200798068_200798068
 

Then here is the one that if you do a fair amount of engine tinkering that is very useful.  I resisted for a long time but after I finally go it wish I had got it a long time ago.   Similar to the hand pump you just stick the hose in what ever fluid you want to suck then pull out the pump handle to build some vacuum.  The hose it comes with is small enough to fit down a dipstick tube so is really handy if you overfill something like a transmission or engine oil.  There are smaller ones and bigger ones and metal ones.   Price range is $50 and up.  They make 50 gallon shop units with electric pumps if you really want to go nuts.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_465467_465467

[64\/54Cadillacking]

I’ve always used Transmission fluid in my classics. It never has caused problems in any of my Cadillacs and Lincoln’s. As matter of fact I think ATF is better than PS fluid because of the added detergents and cleaning abilities.

There’s was one exception when I used to own a 93 Town Car and I accidentally put in Dexron/Mercon fluid, and the PS pump whined like crazy. I replaced it with Type F fluid (correct fluid) and it quieted it down. Should have read manual first.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Ah yes, the manual.

Many a transmission/power steering system/LSD has been hurt by the wrong fluid.

Bruce.

[TJ Hopland]

The Ford type F has got me a couple times too.  I have not yet figured out why some need it and others don't.  Really odd since their transmissions haven't used it for a very long time.   It can be fairly difficult to find.

ATF's unique property has to be related to the fact that the auto transmissions we are talking about here have 'wet' clutches.  That has to be a real physics challenge.   How do you make something grip when its covered in what appears to be mostly a lubricant.   There must be some very unique properties about ATF related to the clutches that you don't find in a more typical 'oil'.  Is that trait a good thing for a power steering system?  Does it hurt?  I suspect it just doesn't matter.           

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Hello ,
   Is there another brand that is the same as AC delco Fluid ?

     Thanks ,
          Bill

When I flushed The Ark's power steering system a couple of years ago, I used current day AC Delco ATF, no problems.
The fluid was black and the pump was whining. Disconnected the hose under the pump and let it drain. Refill. Start the car, put it in gear (crucial), turned the wheel all the way left and right a few times. Stop, shut down, drain again, wash, rinse, repeat. Took about 6 evolutions to get the fluid red again in the pump. YMMV. Fluid is still red and pump is quiet.

[TJ Hopland]

Why is putting the car in gear a crucial part of the process?

While we are talking about this process I/we should note that you do not want to do this process on blacktop or asphalt type of surface especially in the summer.  The tires could easily dig in on a warm day.    You will also likely leave marks on concrete or other finished surfaces.   Safely jacking the front wheels off or mostly off the ground will help with damage and could be required if you had let the system go dry for any reason.   The system primes and bleeds itself much easier with the reduced load. 

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The Ford type F has got me a couple times too.  I have not yet figured out why some need it and others don't.  Really odd since their transmissions haven't used it for a very long time.   It can be fairly difficult to find.     

It is all about the internals and what materials are used by the makers to have compatible parts.

Take a Diff for instance.   A Cone LSD needs an oil that is "Grippy" whereas a Clutch LSD needs a "Slippy" oil.   Use a Grippy oil in a LSD requiring Slippy oil, and dangerous things can happen.   Did a Corvette diff once, and using the Grippy oil, the car behaved horribly going around corners.   Changed to the Slippy oil, and it drove beautifully.   The car was good in a straight line, but as soon as the differential action was required, when turning, it acted like a chaff cutter in a gravel field.

It is the same with any pump.   The engineers design the internals to work and if there is an oil that meets their requirements for long life, then that is what is needed.   In many cases, the oil companies are asked to design an oil that meets certain requirements if a product is not currently available.   And, they will.

Bruce.