Power trunk problem

[CRZNYT]

Still having issue with the trunk release.
When opened by key the latch rises and trunk opens.
The latch will not pull down when deck is lowered, it will only draw down when you hold the button down in the glove box.
Any ideas??
Cheers

[Cadman-iac]

There have been several different types of pull down units over the years,  what year are you working on?

Rick

[CRZNYT]

Sorry about that 1979 Eldorado

[bcroe]

Same happened to my 79 ELDO, I threw it away and mounted a bolt. 
The parts went to Scott Kent, not sure he has solved the problems yet. 
good luck, Bruce Roe

[chrisntam]

And Bruce can fix most anything...

[79 Eldorado]

Don,
The problem with both Bruce's and my own unit was, at minimum (only thing?), the switch. We both have '79 Eldorados. When I got my car there was no power to the switch. I found the fuse holder near the trunk pull down had a blown fuse (barrel fuse inline holder). I replaced it but I think the latch was out of adjustment and the switch literally shattered when the trunk pulled down. Bruce sent me everything from his system and his switch was broken similar to mine.

There is a drive mechanism which can easily be "chucked" into a cordless drill and you can adjust the latch position and leave it in a single position. That's what I did.

I am fairly certain I can create a new switch and I can try to improve it to avoid the failure but Bruce's switch was missing one of the internal contacts. Seeing everything inside and being able to check the connections in each position would help fill the "matrix" of what must happen with the switch in various positions. That's the next needed step. One example is somehow the unit needs to know if the trunk needs to be pulled down or it doesn't. If you "pop" the trunk it seems like the trunk lid is in the same position as it is when it's in the pull down position but if you just "popped" it you obviously don't want it to pull down. I've never had a functioning unit so some of what happens when is not obvious. My switch wasn't missing any contacts but I had it in a zip lock until I was ready to work on it and I lost it at least a year before Bruce sent me his.

It's a novel feature and I guess I wish it worked but considering you need to still lower the lid to the point where it would pull down it's pretty incredible that someone determined something with so much hardware was needed to pull the trunk down the remaining ~2inches. The trunk remote in the glove box doesn't need a pull down to function. I've installed the remote release in vehicles and vehicles without the pull down had factory original release solenoids on the trunk latch.

Scott

[CRZNYT]

Hey Scott very cool thanks for all the information, I will have to look deeper into it.
At the end of the day I just may have to take the switches off and make it a manual latch.
It's just seems weird that I can't pop it open with the switch in the glove box but have to hold the same switch down to draw the deck down to locking position.
Love old cars.
LOL
Cheers Donnie

[79 Eldorado]

Donnie,
Save that switch which is attached to the moving striker assembly even if it's damaged. At one point I was thinking about trying to copy the original plastic but there are a lot of hard to measure intricate features inside. The contacts are pretty wild shapes as well and if the plastic body was copied the original contacts could be used. Bruce and I were thinking, if a replacement is developed, it may make more sense replacing the function without actually copying the seemingly fragile design.... but until then it would be good to keep your original regardless of condition.

This is the first car I've had with both the pull down and the glove box trunk opener. On cars with only the glove box trunk opener the wiring is very simple. As I recall they wired it for key on only. There is a connector going from the fuse box to the glove box switch and then a wire going from the glove box to the trunk lid to a solenoid. The solenoid is grounded through the mounting screw. As I recall all of the pull down wiring comes from the passenger/right side of vehicle through the lower trunk. So at least the wiring ends up entering the trunk area from different entrance points but they could be routed together prior to entering the trunk (or diverted immediately upon entering).

I've been working on the FIV and a bit distracted by home projects. I would like to get back to this at some point but I don't know when.

Scott

[CRZNYT]

Yeah I usually dont throw anything out I always bag and tag it.
Let me know how you make out.
Was going to play with the car today but the temp went up to 107 with the humidex.