1969 DIY Convertible Top Replacement

[sturner50502]

Hello All,

Has anyone DIY'd their convertible top? In their garage? If so, please provide feedback such as if it was wirht it, how difficult was it, any warnings/issues that need to be worried about? Is there any resources available that would assist with this part of the project?

I was quoted about $2000 labor only. I think I can do it myself and use the $2000 towards my paint, etc.

Thanks eveyone,

Steve

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I have replaced Convertible tops in the past, the first one in 1976 on my '55 Chevrolet, and the last one in 2019 on a friends '71 Eldorado so if I can do it, almost anyone can do it.

I have also redesigned a Convertible top for a friends '35 Ford Roadster Pickup, which included the bow operation.

But my first Convertible top was one I made for my '53 Chev Sedan, which I cut the roof off, way back in 1966.   Was a bit rough, but it worked (fully Manual with parts from a Triumph TR2 and a Vauxhall Vagabond.   The Sailmaker did a good job of stitching up the seams that I created.

But, getting back to the heading question, anything is possible, and following the detailed instructions of the Factory Shop Manual, and the Top Supplier, and taking your time, is paramount.   Having a friend to assist is also important, as one deeds more than two hands at times.

My policy on things is that if someone can do something, then there is no reason why I can't do things, with lots of reading and watching and learning.   The last two are a bit difficult as there are no places here that specialise in replacing tops, just normal Auto Upholsterers.

Plus, if you have the old top, don't destroy it as you are removing it, as it will come in very handy with transferring measurements and such.

Bruce.

PS.   BUT, you also have to have some tools, and if you have to purchase tools, you have to count that in to the cost of the job.   AND, you also need the room.

[Bobby B]

Steve,
Hi. What Bruce Said....
  The final outcome reflects how much patience you have, and how detail oriented/focused you are. With installing a top, the amount of time you put in will be reflected in the end result. The experience part comes in with the tricks and the "feel" on how loose or tight things should be stapled. I always leave a little extra under my header bow just in case I'm not happy with the top when closed. A little on the tight side is OK, as long as you can seat the pins and close the clamps without that much force. It will stretch in time and it'll be easier to latch, but it's really just knowing the correct amount up off the windshield header it should be. You can always go back and either loosen it or tighten it, if you leave a little under the weatherstripping. It's a job that's not to be rushed. If you're in no hurry, then do your homework, read, research, and go for it! Patience is the Key. You need to invest in a pneumatic staple gun which is about $35-$40 for a nice one. You won't regret it....Stainless Steel staples in a few different sizes are needed along with tailors caulk and pencil for marking, sharp awl, razor blades, fabric scissors, exacto-knife, etc.  New pads/cables definitely. THE MOST CRITICAL part of installing a top is getting the EXACT distance from your rear trim edge to your rear bow which has the tack strip. I'm talking exact. It's specified by the place you purchase your top from. If you deviate the slightest bit, your following seams will never line up correctly, the moulding strip will not cover your staples on the tack strip, and your window will most like be skewered. The rear bow is your starting point, along with the rear curtain/window, and forward from there. I run blue tape along the windshield, mark center, and mark the center of the top fabric, to make sure it's completely centered so your drip rails over the windows wind up even and your front-to-back seams look perfectly even when looking from the front of the car back. Getting the rear pillars are a trial and error thing if you want nice tight corners with no wrinkles. Sometimes a steamer works wonders. Frustration level is high. I've done it many times and it 'll usually take close to a dozen times on and off the rear inside strip until I'm happy. You can do a better job if you're doing it yourself, Measure, measure, measure, before stapling, and before stapling Fully home. I have an installation manual that might help you decide whether or not you want to tackle it. The first top I ever did, I figured the worst that could go wrong is that I ruined a top, so I'll give it a shot. There's also a great video on YouTube on an install. This guy does a nice job and explains it in nice detail. Also, if you haven't purchased a top, I have a great company that has the best quality/fit top that I've ever purchased. They're all hand done, by him, off the original patterns. No mass production and horrible fit. I only use him after all the garbage I've tried over the years. I posted a few pictures of the last top I did. I'll be happy to answer any questions, and if I can help out in any way, feel free to contact me. Good Luck!
                                                                             Bobby


http://www.aro2000.com

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcejH6cJnAs

[Roger Zimmermann]

After the upholster failed to install the roof correctly on my '56 Biarritz, I did it myself. Don't even begin when it's cold, do it when the temperature is warm if you intend to install a vinyl roof. Probably a canvas one is less sensitive to the cold/heat; if the rear window is plastic, it will not stretch when cold.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I concur with Roger on the temperature side of things.

I was working on the '71 in my garage which was measuring 11.2 C and found it too cold to do the final fitting, so with the assistance of a Gas Burner, a supply of bottles, I managed to raise the temperature to 35.3 C, which was too hot for me to work in, but good for the roof.

Bruce.

PS.   Remember to use good ventilation when using heaters of the flame variety.

[Roger Zimmermann]

35°C, really hot! I did it differently: I went out during Summertime to do the work!

[prodjay10]

If you were in the phx area I’d install it for as much or less than that including materials.

[76eldo]

Not recommended unless you have superior skills.
The price you got was way high.
It’s about $1500-$1700 from a good top shop.

Brian

[sturner50502]

I have replaced Convertible tops in the past, the first one in 1976 on my '55 Chevrolet, and the last one in 2019 on a friends '71 Eldorado so if I can do it, almost anyone can do it.

I have also redesigned a Convertible top for a friends '35 Ford Roadster Pickup, which included the bow operation.

But my first Convertible top was one I made for my '53 Chev Sedan, which I cut the roof off, way back in 1966.   Was a bit rough, but it worked (fully Manual with parts from a Triumph TR2 and a Vauxhall Vagabond.   The Sailmaker did a good job of stitching up the seams that I created.

But, getting back to the heading question, anything is possible, and following the detailed instructions of the Factory Shop Manual, and the Top Supplier, and taking your time, is paramount.   Having a friend to assist is also important, as one deeds more than two hands at times.

My policy on things is that if someone can do something, then there is no reason why I can't do things, with lots of reading and watching and learning.   The last two are a bit difficult as there are no places here that specialise in replacing tops, just normal Auto Upholsterers.

Plus, if you have the old top, don't destroy it as you are removing it, as it will come in very handy with transferring measurements and such.

Bruce.

PS.   BUT, you also have to have some tools, and if you have to purchase tools, you have to count that in to the cost of the job.   AND, you also need the room.

Thanks Bruce, I agree with everything you have said here. I will give it a go. And really, I would rather do it myself, even if it costs more because I cant put value on a sense of personal pride that I did it.

[sturner50502]

Not recommended unless you have superior skills.
The price you got was way high.
It’s about $1500-$1700 from a good top shop.

Brian

Thanks Brian

[sturner50502]

Steve,
Hi. What Bruce Said....
  The final outcome reflects how much patience you have, and how detail oriented/focused you are. With installing a top, the amount of time you put in will be reflected in the end result. The experience part comes in with the tricks and the "feel" on how loose or tight things should be stapled. I always leave a little extra under my header bow just in case I'm not happy with the top when closed. A little on the tight side is OK, as long as you can seat the pins and close the clamps without that much force. It will stretch in time and it'll be easier to latch, but it's really just knowing the correct amount up off the windshield header it should be. You can always go back and either loosen it or tighten it, if you leave a little under the weatherstripping. It's a job that's not to be rushed. If you're in no hurry, then do your homework, read, research, and go for it! Patience is the Key. You need to invest in a pneumatic staple gun which is about $35-$40 for a nice one. You won't regret it....Stainless Steel staples in a few different sizes are needed along with tailors caulk and pencil for marking, sharp awl, razor blades, fabric scissors, exacto-knife, etc.  New pads/cables definitely. THE MOST CRITICAL part of installing a top is getting the EXACT distance from your rear trim edge to your rear bow which has the tack strip. I'm talking exact. It's specified by the place you purchase your top from. If you deviate the slightest bit, your following seams will never line up correctly, the moulding strip will not cover your staples on the tack strip, and your window will most like be skewered. The rear bow is your starting point, along with the rear curtain/window, and forward from there. I run blue tape along the windshield, mark center, and mark the center of the top fabric, to make sure it's completely centered so your drip rails over the windows wind up even and your front-to-back seams look perfectly even when looking from the front of the car back. Getting the rear pillars are a trial and error thing if you want nice tight corners with no wrinkles. Sometimes a steamer works wonders. Frustration level is high. I've done it many times and it 'll usually take close to a dozen times on and off the rear inside strip until I'm happy. You can do a better job if you're doing it yourself, Measure, measure, measure, before stapling, and before stapling Fully home. I have an installation manual that might help you decide whether or not you want to tackle it. The first top I ever did, I figured the worst that could go wrong is that I ruined a top, so I'll give it a shot. There's also a great video on YouTube on an install. This guy does a nice job and explains it in nice detail. Also, if you haven't purchased a top, I have a great company that has the best quality/fit top that I've ever purchased. They're all hand done, by him, off the original patterns. No mass production and horrible fit. I only use him after all the garbage I've tried over the years. I posted a few pictures of the last top I did. I'll be happy to answer any questions, and if I can help out in any way, feel free to contact me. Good Luck!
                                                                             Bobby


http://www.aro2000.com

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcejH6cJnAs

Excellent information, Bobby. Thanks for the video.

[Bobby B]

Excellent information, Bobby. Thanks for the video.

Steve,
Hi. You're welcome.... If you want to borrow the book, it's yours for the round trip ticket.The Devil is in the Details. Good Luck!
                                                                    Bobby