Sabre Wheels

[CAD57@2816]

A while back, I had Sabre wheels re-chromed.  After we mounted the wheels back on the car, all the tires went flat.  I got a referral from friends about a wheel company that said the chrome process probably loosened some of the rivets causing the air loss.  He installed a membrane around the inner wheel and I never had another problem.  A friend brought up the suggestion that if the rivets were loosened, could the wheel possibly fail.  Didn't think about this, but my friend is a lot smarter.  Does anyone have any experience similar to mine and is there a concern of the wheels failing?

[Cadillac Jack 82]

I've had my sabres for about 3 years now and never had an issue.  Mine are in excellent original condition and I sealed the rivets with silicone.  They should be okay but I'll let others chime in.

[Lexi]

First order of the day is to know exactly what year of Sabre rims you have. I believe 1955 Kelsey Hayes Sabre rims should have the number #38612 stamped on the hub under the wheel disc. Anyhow...

I also sealed my '56 Sabre rivets (using "Right Stuff" by Permatex). No issues. If your Sabres are indeed 1955 issue, they are of the so-called "split rim" design and incorporate more rivets as well as (I believe) a sealer between the steel and aluminum rim when joined at the factory. The 1956 rims had the aluminum outer turbine part riveted to a full steel wheel, hence their generic name, "clad". A much different design. Stronger and less prone to leaking. I suspect that the plating process degraded your original seal if they are indeed '55s. The best answer is probably to use an inner tube. Although Cadillac Data Books for 1955 & 1956 state that tubeless tires were issued, it was not uncommon years ago for '55 Sabres to have inner tubes installed.

I believe there may also have been a transition Sabre rim in '55, but not 100% sure. Based on what I have seen, it appears that there were 2 Sabre rims made in 1955. If so, perhaps there was a change early in the model year to incorporate more rivets to solve air leaks that were noted early in production? Perhaps that is why the Data Book doesn't mention inner tubes for 1955 Sabres as that problem crept up after publication? Just a guess. I stand to be corrected.

If your inner seals have failed, your best bet is to install inner tubes for 1955 Sabres. If you have 1956 Sabres that incorporate a solid steel inner rim, then sealing the rivets with the above noted product may indeed solve your problem. I have also seen microscopic pin hole leaks form right in the rim's bead, but as all of your tires have lost air I would suspect leaking rivets and/or the main seal if a '55 set. Have your rivets loosened? Can't say for sure but my first thought is that of a leaking seal between your aluminum and steel rim, if '55s. Clay/Lexi

[Mike Josephic CLC #3877]

The sabre wheels used in 1955 leaked even
when brand new.  The design was such that
due to the number of rivets, despite the
factory sealing the joints with rubber cement,
the wheels were not air tight.

The "fix" back then was to use an inner tube. 
In fact, I have tubes on my fully restored 1955
wheels to prevent leaks from happening. That's
what I would recommend in your case also.

Mike

[artdan]

I have Sabre wheels on my 57 Biarritz, which I've only owned a few years.
I am still discovering things. The r/r tire was leaking air after a 100+ mile trip, and I discovered it had a failing inner tube.
Once the tire was off, the mechanic discovered a silicone barrier put across the rivets inside the wheel.
A replacement inner tube wasn't expensive, but hard to find locally. When I got home I ordered 2 inner tubes for spares.
The trip home after the replaced inner tube was trouble free.

[59-in-pieces]

It seems to me that Back In The Day, when tubes were added so too was a wide rubber band over the centers to protect the inner tube from chaffing while it flexed during driving.
Oh, and a bit of baby powder over the strap as well.
Shade tree mechanic-ism, maybe.

Any recollections of this or opinions.

Have fun,
Steve B.

[Mike Josephic CLC #3877]

Steve, you are correct.  That "rubber band" you refer
to was called a "flap".  Once the tube is in the tire the
flap is pushed in over the top of the tube between the
tire and the rim bead.  Then, it's mounted to the
wheel.  This keeps the tube from rubbing against
the inside of the wheel.  Coker tire stocks them.

I learned this fixing truck tires on the PA Turnpike in
the 60's.

Mike

[wheikkila]

I would think the rims would be safe as long as the rivets were not loose so you can move them. Air leakage is one thing. A loose rim is totally something different.
        Thanks Wayne   

[fishnjim]

He's named '57 and discussing '55?
I guess people have to learn to put down the facts of what they're asking and responders quit guessing, but what do I know?

According to this the wheel design was changed in '56 to a clad rim so it shouldn't leak.  Rivets outside of the air chamber.   Unless they really did something wrong in the rechrome or earlier rims?   The insert is aluminum.   https://1956eldorado.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-cadillac-sabre-wheel.html

I'd have them balanced and see if they can be balanced or not.   That should indicate whether the rivets(centers) are loose or not.   Not always the thing to do, re-chrome.   Short of complete X-ray I don't know of anything that would tell if they're "safe".   

My recollection that the rubber band was more prevalent on the spoked rims to prevent chafing/puncture much like a bicycle tire.   Either way won't hurt.   
Most all of the inner tubes I've seen are coming from off shore and not good quality.   I just happen to be inflating two tractor tubes for my pool cover just now, one year old and they're already cracking.   When I still rode my bike, the "asian" tubes would not hold air for long.   So inner tubes may cause more headaches, too.   Tractor tires are usually loaded, so not a issue.  Trucks, etc. usually have the valve stem that screws down and not free to move.   The "floating" kind are more subject to cutting at the valve stem and best to use all metal valve stems.   I've had issues with alloy wheels and rubber valve stems.   Another source of leakage to check here.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

After nearly 3 1/2 years of riding on my sabres I've never had an issue.  I just had a Firestone shop install the bias ply tires, balance, and hand em back to me for install.  Here's a picture of Evelyn two weekends ago in Chandler, AZ.