Recent posts

#1

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Squeaking belts on '61 Dev...

Last post by Cadillac Jack 82 - Today at 03:18:23 PM

Chalk.  Rub a piece of white chalk against the belt while running.  Problem solved.

#2

Technical / Authenticity / Squeaking belts on '61 Deville

Last post by ZGJim - Today at 03:05:12 PM

The belts on my non-AC Deville squeak loudly when they get warmed up.  Have tried belt dressing and cleaning the inside of the pulleys with emery paper and scotchbrite. No improvement.  The belts are new and correct according to the listing at O'Reilly's.  The belts are the notched style. Gates belts #7550 and 7575.
Has anyone found a cure for this problem?

Thanks,

#3

Technical / Authenticity / Re: '61 Water Pump

Last post by ZGJim - Today at 02:58:37 PM

It turns out the pump was an older reproduction.  Had it rebuilt by Dan Bailey at Tri Parts in Michigan.  He did a fine job at a very reasonable price.

#4

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1973 Eldorado convertible ...

Last post by bcroe - Today at 02:25:04 PM

The rotating field is initially energized by some
current from the GEN light, sometimes a big alt
will have a second bulb in parallel to give more
start current (like my diesel).  Once the rpms
produce output thru the main rectifiers to the
output stud, the small diode trio also produces
voltage to fully energize the field, and GEN
goes out.  Sometimes a main rect diode opens,
causing a voltage spike on that phase, which
can flow thru the diode trio and light the bulb. 
Max output also decreases. 
I would check all the diodes.  Bruce Roe

#5

General Discussion / Re: 55 deville clock repair

Last post by Cadillac Jack 82 - Today at 12:50:26 PM

Had that problem with my old 55.  Clacked as opposed to work.

#6

General Discussion / Re: Wanted: CLC Escalade Owner...

Last post by Carfreak - Today at 12:27:02 PM

Are we really there? Where there will be an Escalade class to be judged next to the 60s and 70s ?

Lost in this example is that Escalades were badge engineered Chevy Tahoes and Suburbans. Still are. 

How successful is the Cimarron Chspter?   Escalades certainly helped stabilize the brand when car sales fell to nothing and Cadillac had nothing in the SUV pipeline, but to celebrate Chevy Suburbans as a possible Chapter is a bridge too far. 
 
Did anyone even ask Mr Anderson (or whoever would write it) to draft an authenticity manual for the Escalade class?  That would almost kill the morale of what is left of the pre war attendees at GN and regionals. 

70s Sevilles have Olds engines as do sought after 79 Eldos.

94-96 Broughams came with Chev LT1 engines. The cars are smooth, fast & gorgeous.

Doesn't seem like members have a problem with these cars. And recently have even seen a few WTB Cimarron ads. 

And remember the CLC originally only allowed pre-war Cads & LaSalles.

#7

General Discussion / Re: 1976 Eldorado Convertible ...

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 11:32:08 AM

$50k for a 4100 car?  I guess if you just want to look at it?

#8

General Discussion / Re: Clicking Sound Dashboard

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 11:27:52 AM

Yep.  It will likely change if you change the temp dial or modes.  May not go away but should change.

Why is it doing that?  You have to go through the troubleshooting process to figure out what isn't happy.  Cadillac Tim wrote troubleshooting manuals for these more recently using normal DIY tools and based on what often fails with age vs the factory manuals that were based of factory tools and being fairly new units.

Do you want your system to work or just stop clicking?

#9

For Sale - Cars / 1941 Cadillac Series 62 Conver...

Last post by sdigesualdo - Today at 10:34:46 AM

Selling my 1941 Convertible - Thank you!

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1941-cadillac-62-firestone-co-2788150

#10

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1973 Eldorado convertible ...

Last post by scottsdaleaz - Today at 10:20:32 AM

Sounded like an interesting challenge so i traced it out.



is it like this:  When the ignition is switched on, but the engine (and thus the alternator) is not running, the battery's 12-volt supply flows through the warning light and through the resistor and at that tap to the alternator. At this point, the alternator is not producing any power, so the circuit is completed back to the battery's ground through the resistor , allowing the lamp to light up.

When the engine starts and the alternator begins to generate power, it produces a voltage that closely matches the battery's voltage. This means the voltage on both sides of the lamp is nearly equal, leading to a drop in current flow through the lamp, causing it to go out. Essentially, the light goes off because there is no longer a significant voltage difference across it.


oh.. now i also see the Fuel Gauge and all the Tell Tale Lamps getting hot from ...  the 5amp Gauges /trans fuse..  for the bank of lamps Coolant, Oil Pressure, Gen, Trunk and Low Brake..  possibly missing that when you add fuel gauge symptom.
The hot side of the Tell tale Bulbs goes to the 5 Amp Gauges/Trans fuse.   

So wherever that joint is.. that dot on the center of the schematic..  tracing left of that dot.. that needs to produce 12v at the alternator and have a good circuit back to that dot.. or else the resistor is good enough to make the circuit for ground path so the the Gen lamp will glow (?).

I would try pull the connector at the alternator and feed the brown wire with 12v and see if the lamp goes out eliminating the wiring and blaming the alternator internals.  This is my guess - so verify before you inject 12v.

Maybe the Seat short spiked the Alternator?

But now i see the lamps  and the fuel gauge get the 12v from the 5 amp Gauges/Trans fuse.. so changing my guess on that source.