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#21
General Discussion / Re: 1951 Caddy daily driver
Last post by Mowerhoarder - Today at 08:02:32 AM
Cadman,
Yeah, I really don't want to tear up the headliner any more than it already is. If I ever do get the headliner redone I'll probably re wire it but until then, it's a small issue.

Bob,
That would make sense, I've seen some Instagram videos of a dude opening the door of a 50' caddy and the dash lights came on so maybe that's what's supposed to happen? Either way, both of my bulbs are burnt out so I'm gonna throw some new ones in and see what happens.
#22
For Sale - Cars / Re: 1973 Fleetwood Brougham, N...
Last post by James Landi - Today at 07:24:25 AM
  "It's awfully odd that the odometer has landed exactly on 54,000 miles. It's possible, just odd."

While I agree, Rick, those seats would not hold up much longer than that amount of mileage and seat time.  Never have a seen upholstery  of this style. Reminds me of my mother's  Italian Venetian decadent living room furniture... Not something one would ever feel comfortable sitting on or eating a burger while driving. 
#23
Andy,

Get yourself a vacuum gauge, carefully read the instructions, and you'll have substantially more information about the overall condition of your engine.  By simply "teeing" into the intake manifold vacuum nipple, you'll know if you have a misfiring cylinder due to a stuck or burnt valve, you'll have other essential readings regarding the health of your engine .  The vacuum gauge is an essential tool for diagnosing engines. 

Many of us make the mistake of starting and idling our engines without getting them up to operational temperatures. This practice causes heavy condensation to rain down internally, especially on the valve train.. and often causes valve stems to rust and get stuck in the valve guides... If after performing a vacuum gauge test, you note an intermittent misfire along with a rattling sound, then you have this stuck valve condition. Starting, idling and stopping the engine only exacerbates the amount of water raining down on the valve train.  So you may have to remove the valve covers to investigate and identify those issues.
#24
General Discussion / Re: At home tire/wheel balanci...
Last post by Abe Lugo - Today at 03:30:49 AM
The beads are very small and is use a turkey barter-like injector to put them in.  Bit that can be a mess as well.
#25
General Discussion / Re: Swap Meeting Advice
Last post by Abe Lugo - Today at 03:29:02 AM
If you are a CLC member won't you just post pics here and ship?
#26
Ah! Those batteries! I took the one from my '56 out because it began to be weak, no wonder after about 12 years. I let fill the acid into a battery I had bought new for about 15 years ago; bad luck: two cells are shorted! Even if they are empty, the shelf life is not that long. Fortunately, I saw that before the battery was back into the car. Monday I'm going to reach a new fresh one...
#27
Quote from: TJ Hopland on Yesterday at 11:01:08 AMSo what do you think caused that damage?  I don't know this model well enough to tell what was supposed to be going on there. 

Hard to tell. Anyway, the front unit coupling is the weak element in those tranmissions. Depending how heavy the foot from the driver is, especially with the quick down, the aluminum cover has an hard life. There should be no relative rotation between cover and driven torus asssembly; the cover is held with four small points. Earlier transmissions had only two points, only suitable for a little lady!
I'm attaching pictures from the earlier two points attachment and a good cover.

56 driving torus vanes.jpgWie neu.jpg
#28
General Discussion / Re: Weight of '60 390/trans co...
Last post by Lexi - Today at 12:25:32 AM
Quote from: Big Fins on Yesterday at 12:22:24 PMI had to beef up my hoist to pull mine as a unit. On the way back in, just as it was seating in the cradle, the oil ring in the 8 ton bottle jack blew out. Sure glad is wasn't 6 feet in the air when that happened.

That would have been disastrous. Got an awful feeling in the pit of my stomach just reading your post. The Cadillac Gods smiled upon you that day, and saved your car. Clay/Lexi
#29
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1956 dealer installed AC s...
Last post by Lexi - Today at 12:16:03 AM
Thanks Jose. I have seen those papers before. Yes, you are correct in that the idle speed up control units are very different for the Rochester vs the Carters in '56. But wasn't the extra bladed fan 6 vaned (if memory serves)? Would have to pull mine out to be sure as it never made it to the '56 MPL, but was there in the 1957 parts list but with some changes made to it, (and a new part #). You are correct that unless an AC owner complained, every car got the 4 bladed radiator fan. I am inclined also to agree about the fan shroud. I have never seen a '56 Cadillac with what I thought was a contemporaneous one. The few I have seen were all much later and adapted to fit. There may have been a rubber strip that better sealed the hood when closed to the top of the radiator support, but not sure if there in 1956. Do you know if it was there that year Jose? It was sort of a one dimensional poor mans radiator shroud in a way. Just one strip of rubber. Discussions like this used to pop up in the old Mid Century Cadillac site (and CLC Chapter). Lou Commisso the Administrator noted that "factory only" items if MPL listed, could be ordered and installed later by, well anyone including the dealer. So in other words the term "factory only" may not always be true. I agree that this is a fascinating topic and would like to learn more about it. I just don't know much about the AC stuff. Hopefully Gregs chimes in. Clay/Lexi
#30
For Sale - Parts / 1956 thru 1964 Cadillac , Olds...
Last post by Doug Scarrow - Yesterday at 11:07:18 PM
  Correct Jetaway front pump complete  part number 8619952 very fine condition
$160 plus shipping  https://www.ebay.com/itm/266805513612