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#1
Quote from: Clewisiii on Yesterday at 04:37:40 PMUnfortunately Oil for plastic and fuel does not work that way. Oil goes into a distillation tower where it is separated by its molecular weight. There is a certain band of weight that can be used for fuel, Then there are bands that separate out into the different grades of raw chemicals used for plastics and other things. The bottom of the distillation tower is what is used for Asphalt. The prices we currently pay is at an equilibrium with the volumes of raw materials that exit that distillation tower. If you need more ABS resin it does not divert oil away from Gas. We would need to pump more oil and the gas becomes a byproduct that may then reduce in price.

Now if we were to have a drastic reduction in the amount of fuel we need for transportation. If that reduces the amount of oil pumped then that is less raw material for Asphalt and plastic resins. If we need plastic at the same rate then we would still pump the same amount of oil but fuel grades would be a waste byproduct. We could reprocess into new things. As long as we do not burn it we do not release the carbon.

I was on a research project that looked at using waste molasses from processing sugar beets as an organic carbon source to make plastic. The project started in Italy where they were actually pumping the waste molasses directly to a land fill. So the raw material was free for them to process into plastic. We wanted to replicate the process in Michigan since we have a large sugar beet processing operation here. The problem is for America this is not a waste product. We have already found other uses, so as a commodity waste molasses was in the hundreds of dollars a ton. Oil for plastic is much cheaper at that rate. Side note the company in Italy was also involved in some form of scam and was shut down and investigated.

I do not see ANY grade of fuel oil being a "waste byproduct" in the next several hundred years.
#2
Quote from: billyoung on Yesterday at 06:24:34 AMI last week had the Climate Control Air Conditioning charged on my 1968 DeVille convertible ( last thing I needed to do ) at my local Cadillac dealer and when I was checking out a customer stated to the service manager that his brand new Cadillac Lyric was just towed in. He was less than pleased, I said nothing of course but was thinking God spend all that money and own a car that immediately fails? as for me at age 69 I cannot afford a new Kia gas powered car to say nothing of a $ 60,000.00 plus electric car. As inflation worsens and my dollar recedes I fear the future as even though I am back to working a job I can barely keep up. 


But Bill, you were able to afford the restoration costs fort the 1968 DVC, weren't you ?  :P
#3
General Discussion / Re: Stuck Engines
Last post by James Landi - Today at 09:47:24 PM
George,

I've had a good deal of experience with this kind of challenge.  My initial inspection would include the  following:

 Is there evidence of water in the crank case... an over full crank case can indicate that the cooling system was not treated with antifreeze, the block is cracked and ice in the water jackets defrosted and filled the crankcase with water--since water settles, oil will show on the dip stick as being very high and the tip of the dip stick may indicate some trace of water on the tip. TO verify this disaster, draining the crank case of the engine with a cracked block will provide ample evidence, as water will pour out before the oil. In this case, the engine may have some parts that are of value or have less than no value, as the engine must be removed and is junk.

An engine can be stuck when moisture accumulates in parked engines... the warmth of the day, cooling of the night creates droplets that, overtime rain down on the valve train and in the combustion chambers.  So if the radiator appears, upon inspection,  to be holding water, and the crankcase dipstick is showing a normal level, the engine can be stuck because of moisture and rust, as well. Perseverance, patience, and time are required to un stick this kind of engine challenge.  Removing the spark plugs, shooting in large amounts of PB Blaster Penetrating liquid, Marvel oil, ATC transmission oil... all help to break up the rust and lubricate the cylinder walls.  Letting that mixture sit in the cylinders will help you to begin the process--it is,  oft times, an arduous task of slowly moving the crankshaft to break the rust.  Sometimes a wrench on the front pulley with a long breaker bar can turn  the crankshaft a fraction of an inch (this is progress!) ... sometimes, "bumping" the starter momentarily will gradually break the engine loose.  Sometimes, getting the service plate off of the bell housing and using a crowbar on the ring gear can provide the necessary leverage. I've encountered situations where I've had to remove the cylinder heads, and by doing so, provided an opportunity to inspect the valve train, check for valve movement (in the valve guides), and then visually assess just how many cylinders appear to be most challenged with rust. Applying the rust breaking solutions in each cylinder and monitoring the drop in liquid is a good indication of how stuck an engine is.

I've had satisfactory success by patiently applying rust penetrating solvents and physical force that, over time, gets the engine un-stuck.. Once that is accomplished, getting the engine to turn over without plugs, taking compression readings, and assessing the condition of the ignition system ,carburetor, fuel pump, gas tank, and finally the cooling system are all very important steps in the process of successfully bringing a car back to life.   There are many YOU TUBERS who do this on a weekly basis... I suggest that you explore "Vice Gripe Garage" as he resurrects old, stored cars, and his process and approach is sound.   Hope this helps, James   
#4
General Discussion / Re: Back to the Bricks Dust th...
Last post by Carfreak - Today at 09:06:40 PM
Not familiar with that facility. 

We've been to the Sloan (Buick) Museum several times, usually when the Buick Nats are held there. 

Might be at the Sloan Autofair end of next month if the planets align.  We've been invited a few times.   :D
#5
General Discussion / Re: Why Did I Receive This???
Last post by Carfreak - Today at 09:02:33 PM
Quote from: Big Fins on Yesterday at 05:52:02 PMThen I'm blind. I see a name, region and CLC Member number on all of 'Carfreak's' posts



SPashukewich
Motor City
CLC Number: 5125

And now my Profile will be updated so it is not viewable to non-members accessing our Forum.
#6
TH425.

Bruce. >:D
#7
General Discussion / Re: Why Did I Receive This???
Last post by Carfreak - Today at 08:58:15 PM
Quote from: Jason Edge on Yesterday at 05:41:47 PMHere is the Forum Rule change regarding the Forum Name that was posted May 1:

"A username is required for registration and is the default displayed name.  It can be any unoffensive name the member chooses that is not already in use."

In this day and age where many value their privacy, this allows users that do not want to publicly post their name, the option of using whatever they like as a username. If you want to use ILUVTHECLC that could be your username, while the required CLC # allows your fellow CLC members to know who you are. I call that a Win-Win!



Jason, are you indicating a name is not required to be included in our CLC Forum profile any longer? 

Quote from: Stefan Bartelski (CLC Webmaster)CLC Forum Rules
This Message Forum is to be used to advance the purposes of the Cadillac & LaSalle Club, which are to develop, publish and exchange information pertaining to Cadillacs and LaSalles,
to encourage the maintenance, preservation and restoration of Cadillacs and LaSalles, and to promote social fellowship among Club members.
Rules for posting messages in the forum:
Membership of the Cadillac & LaSalle Club is required to register and post in this forum. If you are not a member, please sign up at https://clc.cornerstonereg.com/Account/index_new
A username is required for registration and is the default displayed name.  It can be any unoffensive name the member chooses that is not already in use.
CLC membership number is required for registration and is displayed for identification.
The use of offensive words in any profile fields (e.g., Username, Title, Signature) is not permitted.
Ads are permitted relating to Cadillac or LaSalle cars, parts and literature only.
It is recommended all vehicle ads state an asking price and location.
No disparaging remarks or personal attacks against fellow forum members, club members, club directors & officers, forum moderators, or any business will be tolerated.  Discussion threads containing such remarks will be removed and may result in the loss of the poster's privilege to post on the CLC Forums.
No disparaging remarks against CLC judging results from Cadillac & LaSalle Club events.
Any post requesting a fee for providing information will be removed from the Forum and referred to our commercial advertising manager.
No posting of pictures of nude males or females, or persons in lewd or suggestive poses, regardless of whether the individual is adjacent to a Cadillac or LaSalle.  This will subject the poster to removal of that post and their privilege to post on the CLC Forums.
Posts containing political or religious comment or content will be subject to removal of the whole post, including subsequent posts quoting the original issue.
All pictures of cars must feature the Cadillac or LaSalle as the prominent vehicle. All other images, as in parts, tools, information etc. must be pertinent to Cadillac and LaSalle, with the message text directly indicating that is Cadillac or LaSalle related.
Multiple infractions of the above rules will result in a warning, followed by removal from the forums if infractions continue to occur.
All decisions relating to compliance or non-compliance with these rules shall be made in the sole discretion of the appointed moderators of the CLC Forum.

I've been against the Forum Rule which requires a First Name (or initial) and Last Name ever since it was adopted in July 2010. 

Guess I overlooked and wasn't aware this was going to be a (IMO) positive outcome for the Forum change.  8)


#8
Regarding the availability of un-cut carpets, when I was doing RHD Conversions, and in need of a plain carpet for the conversion, I found that the supplier would supply uncut pieces so that I could do my own fitting.   You just have to ask.

Bruce. >:D
#9
General Discussion / Re: Why Did I Receive This???
Last post by 35-709 - Today at 07:29:54 PM
CF has done everything required that I can see.  There are a number of us here that know CF well.
#10
Isn't the ElDorado's transmission a TH425 or 450?