column lock and transmission selector locking on '72

[dochawk]

If it's not one thing, it's another . . .

when I went to put the '72 back in place today, I couldn't move the transmission back from neutral (or probably park; it *is* a 70's GM transmission indicator . . .)

Anyway, I can't move the transmission lever now, although I did several times earlier in the day, and the ignition column is at or near the "on" position and won't move.  I was able to remove the key (button again, this is a '70s GM ignition lock so there's nothing unusual about being able to pull the key even if running . . .)

Once I had the key out, with the door open the buzzer and "shutoff engine--overheated" light came on rhythmically ever second or two.

At least I hadn't been able to push it far enough to stop me from closing the garage door (and I didn't even get fin grooves this time)

Is anyone familiar with this lockup?

Do I need to pull the steering wheel (and does that use the same tools as for a late 90s Fleetwood, for which this has become routine?)

three steps forward, and two steps back, again . . . or maybe this was two forward and three back . . .

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Richard
Is it the selector or the transmission that is actually stuck?  I don’t know if it’s apples for apples but a week or so ago my 75 was “stuck” in park.  It being at home and having nothing to lose I gave the lever a hard jerk and it freed itself up not to get stuck again
Greg Surfas

[dochawk]

the  leve won't move from it's position (but wiggles a little)

It feels much like trying to move from park when you haven't turned the lock.

I gave up on a GM transmission indicator (or others, for that matter) actually displaying the correct gear back in the early 80s . . .

The ignition column, though, is stuck in the forward position, give or take where "on" should be--which is why I'm wondering if I should pull the steering wheel to get to it.  (gosh, if you told me a few years ago that I'd be casual about such a thing and just do it in stride . . .)

hmm, come to think of it--there's no interlock that requires me to press the bake to shift out of park on oe this old, is there? 

[Cadman-iac]

Richard,
  To determine if the problem is with the column or the transmission,  you can disconnect the linkage rod from the lever on the bottom end of the column. You can then pull up on the linkage to try to get the transmission to the park position. If it does go into park, then the problem lies with the column itself. If it doesn't, your issue is in the transmission.
In most cases I've seen, the problem is in the column however.
One question I have is does the column "wobble" or flop around at the bottom of the tilt portion? There's 4 torx headed screws that hold the column together there. They hold the lower tilt housing to the top of the column shaft/housing, and they sometimes will work loose, allowing the column to flop around, and in some cases will lock up the shift collar.
But before I get into the specifics of getting to those screws, if it's not flopping around, there's no point to describing it.

Rick

PS: There is an adjustment for the shift indicator to correct the pointer so it reads right.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I had a similar problem with a friends' '71 Eldo, and it turned out to be the Sector Gear at the end of the Key lock rotator of the Ignition Switch that had lost a tooth, and the unit had skipped on the rack that operates the electric Ignition Switch down on the steering column.

To move the car, I had to remove the dash under cover, and with a pair of pliers, grab the ignition actuating rod, and managed to pull it downwards, thus pulling the steering wheel locking pin clear of the locking wheel at the base of the steering wheel.   By removing the Electrical Ignition Switch bolts, I was able to move the slider with a point and got the car started.

To allow the car to be moved, I had to un-clip the gear selector shaft at the outside of the firewall, and separate it from the gear lever on the column, and operate it by hand to get gears.

Pictures show the locking wheel, the Sector with teeth missing and the Rack.

This Column was a Tilt Column.

Bruce.

PS.   The later Sectors have 5 teeth, and a different shaped rack, so stay with the earlier ones with the 6 teeth.

[Cadman-iac]

Where have I seen those pictures before?

Hi Bruce,  I know you can offer some good advice on this.

Rick

[fishnjim]

Some of the antitheft ideas of the day - a locking steering wheel.   Ok, if it works right.   not and owner suffers.   Was no "onstar" to call.
Sounds like the pin is engaged and the switch won't release it, as described in the pix.   

Can't say if a broken or stuck/wear issue.   They used to twist off the pins to steal them so not real effective, but will operate with a broke pin.  I'd take it out.
I suspect a little bit of lack of use and out of sequence operation here.  I recall they were harder to unlock if the wheels were fully turned to where pressure on the steering wheel.  Had to turn it back more before it would disengage.   Sometimes "jiggling" can unstuck things, but it's just a hunch.   Agree need to check the trans shifter position to see if trans is in park or not, so know where you're at.   Cleaning and lubing is called for.   White grease turns hard after a decade or more.
Didn't really mention if it was running at the time or not, battery was fully up, etc.   Sounded like it was being pushed?   Electrical gremlins, if not running and showing overheat.   It's a ~50 year old car now, so not unexpected.   They don't last/function without regular maintenance.  Sitting long periods isn't good for humans either.
ps: There's a '70's eldo conv. for sale down the street.   I was going to scope it out, but maybe I'll pass on it, unless they got a "virus special" going.