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60 CDV gen light on

Started by Michael Petti, July 22, 2022, 08:13:45 PM

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Michael Petti

Driving around today the gen light came on, but if I increased RPM it went out. It came on again later in the day and did not go out. NAPA says it's getting 13.6 volts at battery and is not enough. In trouble shooting I opened an inline fuse holder, and the contents went flying. What went in this fuse holder? I cannot find it in the manual. Am having generator checked tomorrow. If not the generator, then must be the voltage regulator. What fuse went in that holder?

TJ Hopland

I'm no expert on a 60 but an inline fuse holder doesn't sound stock.   Do you know if this is still a stock generator and external regulator?   An inline fuse makes me think perhaps its some sort of an alternator upgrade?     
73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI, over 30 years of ownership and counting
Somewhat recently deceased daily drivers, 80 Eldo Diesel & 90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

Michael Petti

As far as I know it is stock. I am considering an alternator that looks stock, but not sure if the generator light would work correctly. even a good guess would work here. Thanks in advance

Michael Petti

Did more research. The fuse is the brown wire connected to the left post on the generator as I face it. I also found out it is not original generator or regulator. Someone made a separate loom for the generator to regulator. I can tell as it's wrapped in tape, not the original cloth wrap. I am replacing it for now with a 5 amp fuse until I can verify that it is the wrong amperage. Based on the gauge of the wire it looked about right. looking at a wiring diagram I don't see any fuse at all. As you said it may have been added by the person who made the loom and replaced the generator and regulator.

J. Gomez

#4
Quote from: Michael Petti on July 23, 2022, 01:57:24 PMDid more research. The fuse is the brown wire connected to the left post on the generator as I face it. I also found out it is not original generator or regulator. Someone made a separate loom for the generator to regulator. I can tell as it's wrapped in tape, not the original cloth wrap. I am replacing it for now with a 5 amp fuse until I can verify that it is the wrong amperage. Based on the gauge of the wire it looked about right. looking at a wiring diagram I don't see any fuse at all. As you said it may have been added by the person who made the loom and replaced the generator and regulator.

I'm not sure why someone will add an in-line fuse on that side,  :o   the "brown" wire between the GEN "Armature" and VR "GEN" is the current side and the original '61 generator would be a 45A.

If the current load exceeds the fuse amperage it will blow, so it is a wrong step to place a fuse on that side.  ;)

Generally to protect both the Gen and VR the best place to add a fuse (same size as the VR/GEN capacity) would be on the "BAT" side of the VR. There are fuses (several brands and $$) that can be install on the VR terminal for this type of application aka regulator fuses.

Good luck...!   
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

TJ Hopland

Any chance this is already a alternator that looks like a generator?    Anyone who has those know of any way to tell?   I suppose if its a real generator you can open the inspection cover and you will see a commutator vs a slip ring.   An alternator will have a slip ring that the brushes ride on.  A slip ring is a continuous ring that makes constant contact with the brush.   If its a generator the commutator is made up of individual bars so the brush makes contact with different bars as it rotates. 

Do those gen looking alternators have internal regulators?  That could mean the regulator was just left in place for looks? 
73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI, over 30 years of ownership and counting
Somewhat recently deceased daily drivers, 80 Eldo Diesel & 90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

fishnjim

Pull the electrical diagram up on line and see if it shows a fuse in that BRN wire?
I don't think one is proper, but not 100% sure, too lazy to do it myself, and have no idea what your car has.  Most likely someone's idea of a fix or running a fused circuit off that terminal for ease of access.   
An alternator won't have three wires and wont; need the VR, so I doubt it's cloaked.  It should probably be closer to 14.5 VDC when charging, but the voltage/amperage tapers as the battery charges so no can tell what the charge on the battery is. Have to check with it off or put the draw down meter on it.   
The gen light is wired into the generator circuit and comes on when it's off but key on or needs charging/no output.   
Easiest test is shut it off and turn the headlights on and see if they're dim and start it up and see if it changes to bright.  If no change, then it's not putting out.
Generators don't put out much at idle, < 700 rpm, so I'd check it at 1500-2000 rpms.   
It might just need polarized or the VR is not functioning.  Any auto electric shop can sort it out, if you can't, but they're getting scarcer.
There could be wiring issues to that need straightened out from what it sounds like.   Very common.
The brushes could be worn and it needs a rebuild.  They die slowly.  Magnets and windings aren't going anywhere.  A lot of times its the battery that's bad and causing issues.  I like  fresh one when I shoot electrical.
ps: I run a voltage meter on my generator cars, that way you can tell what's going on.  An idiot light is useless not to mention annoying.

bcroe

Certainly check the brushes, that was the most frequent
failure point on my generators.  Once I realized they
would go out every 40,000 miles, my regular preventative
maintenance program got started. 

Alternator brushes went 180,000 miles.  Bruce Roe

Michael Petti

So far, I took the generator and regulator to a shop recommended to me. Does electrical work on cars through 1976. It is a generator and upon testing had insufficient output. He will rebuild it and adjust the regulator together. I did pull the electrical diagram as suggested and found a 6-amp fuse on a brown wire from the gen. I replaced the fuse with a 5 amp as could not find a 6-amp and everything works fine. I'll post when I reinstall the generator and regulator as to what happens.

Michael Petti

Generator is rebuilt now and regulator checked and adjusted. The shop said I need grommets with brass inserts to reinstall the regulator. There were no brass inserts in the grommets when I took out the regulator. Are these necessary? I ask because Brass ones will take 2-3 days to get and I can get plain rubber ones off the shelf. Thanks

TJ Hopland

The inserts are probably there to get the proper tension for mounting.  Without them by the time the screw was tight you would be fully crushing the rubber so it can't do its job.  Not sure why they would have to be brass tho.  The screws could also have a shoulder built in. 
73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI, over 30 years of ownership and counting
Somewhat recently deceased daily drivers, 80 Eldo Diesel & 90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

TJ Hopland

Is the fuse in the field/F terminal line?  I could imagine 6 amps being a reasonable number there. What is the full load output of one of these 35-40 amps?
73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI, over 30 years of ownership and counting
Somewhat recently deceased daily drivers, 80 Eldo Diesel & 90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

Michael Petti

The generator and alternator installed. I am getting 14.6 volts at the battery.
gen light is now off. There are two brown wires in the loom a heavy one which I believe would run 45 amps and a smaller one that has the fuse in it. Further checking of the wiring diagram shows that wire going to the turn signals. I've been told 14.6 is a little high but since 13.5 was too low I guess it's alright.