1953 Autronic Eye

[Lexi]

I don't know Bruce. I will check my files to see if I kept a text file on that old Ebay listing, but so far no luck in that regard. That would have more information. I thought it was intended as a retrofit, which is why I recall keeping that image. I was considering buying one for my car. But Jose says that is not the case as they cannot be retro-fitted to the old Autronic Eye system. As he has forgotten more about this stuff than I know, I gotta go with what he says.

I have a 1956 2 page Delco Autronic Eye Testing Tips brochure, that I could dig out and copy if anyone is interested.

Clay/Lexi

[timer2]

My '54's turned out to be a ground at the relay. I tinkered with it for quite a while and remembered I had painted the inner fenders so I ran a clip on jumper to one of the small grounds on the firewall and it flipped to brights as soon as I touched the relay housing. I was pretty giddy sitting in a dark garage, lights on, shining a flashlight into the photo eye and getting it to dim.  T Irvin

[J. Gomez]

The amp is a slam dunk, getting 1000VDC from 6V or 12V
is a little harder.

I do not know what the AC and DC versions are? Bruce Roe

Both versions of the amplifier have a vibrator with a high voltage transformer to produce the higher voltage output for the phototube.

The DC version amplifier has a vacuum rectifier to regulate the AC voltage from the output of the transformer, while the AC version of the amplifier did not. Both have an additional vacuum tube amplifier and a ballast tube to drop the supply voltage down over to the vibrator 4V for the 6V system and 6V from the 12V system. These vibrators are the non-synchronous type at 120cs (cycle per second) that is why you can't use a new digital voltmeter to check the output voltages from the transformer the meter will go crazy. 

Did the solid state board source
disappear?
 

I guess it did the old site with his details and ordering info is no longer available I believe as of mid-2010 can't recall for sure if it may have been earlier.

Was the 6V a negative ground system? 

 

Yes, the 1952-1953 6V version where negative ground.

[J. Gomez]

Well good you chimed in. I thought they were a replacement for the under the hood box.  Thanks Jose. Clay/Lexi

Clay,

Not a problem, I think (but I will claim the 5th if I'm wrong  ) these add-on kits came around mid-60s or so.

[J. Gomez]

My '54's turned out to be a ground at the relay. I tinkered with it for quite a while and remembered I had painted the inner fenders so I ran a clip on jumper to one of the small grounds on the firewall and it flipped to brights as soon as I touched the relay housing. I was pretty giddy sitting in a dark garage, lights on, shining a flashlight into the photo eye and getting it to dim.  T Irvin

Terry,

BINGO that is one of the main issues with both the amplifier and the power relay as they mount on the top side fender and with pain on top and the coating on the outside the "ground" is lost from them. 

[bcroe]

Both versions of the amplifier have a vibrator with a high voltage transformer to produce the higher voltage output for the phototube.

The DC version amplifier has a vacuum rectifier to regulate the AC voltage from the output of the transformer, while the AC version of the amplifier did not. Both have an additional vacuum tube amplifier and a ballast tube to drop the supply voltage down over to the vibrator 4V for the 6V system and 6V from the 12V system. These vibrators are the non-synchronous type at 120cs (cycle per second) that is why you can't use a new digital voltmeter to check the output voltages from the transformer the meter will go crazy. 

I guess it did the old site with his details and ordering info is no longer available I believe as of mid-2010 can't recall for sure if it may have been earlier.

Yes, the 1952-1953 6V version were negative ground.

Thanks, I think I see it.  In 1968 (yes I am that old) I used
4 Xerox machine type Nixies to build a digital readout tach,
which is really just a frequency counter.  A supply pulsed the
display at 200V, at 200 Hz it looked continuous.  The  AC
Autronic Eye working that way would need a scope, not a volt
meter to troubleshoot.  If all but the photo tube were swapped
out, it would not matter if the original was an AC or a DC
version.  Wonder how Barry L. Dorr did it, is he willing to
produce a few more? 

All having the same polarity grounding simplifies things,
regulating for either voltage not a big deal anymore. 

Bruce Roe

[David King (kz78hy)]

Bruce,

It looks like you are ready for another development project.   

Thanks again for designing the circuit boards for my Eldorado Brougham sending unit fix.  That has helped over 50 people to get working gauges.

[bcroe]

Bruce,

It looks like you are ready for another development project.

Thanks again for designing the circuit boards for my Eldorado
Brougham sending unit fix.  That has helped over 50 people to
get working gauges. 

David, I had no idea there were that many 57 Es out there,
thanks for the report.  So glad you took care of all the
work of building, testing, and distributing that equipment. 

Do not need another project here, there are some transmissions
to rebuild.  Will try to remain a spectator.  Bruce Roe

[Cadman-iac]

I have a 1956 2 page Delco Autronic Eye Testing Tips brochure, that I could dig out and copy if anyone is interested.

Clay/Lexi

Hey Clay,

If you can find it, I would like to have a copy of that for reference just in case I ever have a problem with mine.
Thanks,

Rick

[J. Gomez]

The  AC Autronic Eye working that way would need a scope, not a volt
meter to troubleshoot. 

Bruce Roe

Actually there is no need for a scope to troubleshoot these units a VTVM is all you need.    You are checking both high (AC and DC) and low (primarily DC) voltages and the VTVM is the perfect tool, it does not care on the frequency of the AC voltage.

If all but the photo tube were swapped
out, it would not matter if the original was an AC or a DC
version. 

Bruce Roe

Actually "no" these operated at a different voltages to the cathode and the socket embedded resistors (SMD for better terms) to each of the phototube detector plates resistors and across each plate have different values as well (range of 2Meg for the DC version and 8Meg for the AC one).   

[bcroe]

Actually there is no need for a scope to troubleshoot these units a VTVM is all you need. You are checking both high (AC and DC) and low (primarily DC) voltages and the VTVM is the perfect tool, it does not care on the frequency of the AC voltage.

Actually "no" these operated at a different voltages to the cathode and the socket embedded resistors (SMD for better terms) to each of the phototube detector plates resistors and across each plate have different values as well (range of 2Meg for the DC version and 8Meg for the AC one).

Voltmeters can do a lot, but here the tool for any changing
voltage will continue to be a scope, usually storage type. 
If those 2 photo tubes are that different, it would increase
the challenge of a common solution.  Might look at the drawings,
after I rebuild the Eldo trans and get a new clutch in the CRV.
Bruce Roe