1932 Cadillac V16 scale model

[Roger Zimmermann]

To continue with the lower part from the third cross member, I assembled temporarily the trimmed upper part on the frame. I added a flange at the cross member as it's riveted at the upper, lower and at the sides of the frame rails, 10 rivets each side!

[Roger Zimmermann]

If the upper half was requiring some tooling, it was more economical with silver soldering: only the end flanges to be riveted at the side of the rail were added. It was a different matter with the lower part: no tooling, but the parts is an assembly of 9 pieces. The pictures are attached showing the various steps.
The lower "legs" were adjusted by removing excess material until the frame rails were square. This cross member is very rigid, adding a lot of strength to the frame.
Logically I would now do the second cross member, but I will do indeed the first one. The reason is that when the first cross member is ready, it will be easier to locate the second one as I have the length of the engine and transmission. The second cross bar is indeed the support for the transmission, it must be positioned correctly!

[Roger Zimmermann]

As I anticipated, the first cross member is far from easy. I gather all pictures I had which were in relation with that element, just to notice that I had nothing clear showing the underside of the cross member. That part is not a single stamped element; a second thick piece of stamped steel is riveted to the top one. Fortunately, a member from the AACA forum provided good photos from his V-12. Thanks Alex!
Many element from the frame were available separately as listed in the parts list. Can you imagine the work required to remove a damage cross member by grinding each rivet, removing the part, adjusting the new one and installing it with new rivets?
Anyway, with all the pictures, I could begin. But with what? the front? the rear? I opted with the rear because it represents a rather large single element. With that, I could continue towards the front. What you see, temporarily inserted in the frame, is constituted with 6 pieces silver soldered. I expected to reduce the number of elements by doing the front flange in one piece. After grinding, cutting, hammering,  I realized that it's just a no go. Therefore, I cut the front flange (in the front at the picture) and will adapt it and silver solder to the existing sub-assembly.
Both pieces of brass soft soldered on the frame are just there to stabilize the frame the time I'm doing the first cross member.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The upper part from the front cross member is ready. With the four integrated nuts at the front (they could be for the front fender attachment supports), 13 parts are silver soldered together. Some stampings were done: 2 round ones in the front for the radiator, two indentations at the almost vertical "tower" and 2 further rear for the engine supports. The tools to perform the indentations used much more time than the pressing!
Most holes as provided by the factory were done too; of course, the ones for the rivets (more than 20) will be drilled together with the side rails before the definitive assembly.

The next task is to do the reinforcement element located under the radiator. This part will be assembled with 4 additional rivets at the upper part, which seems not a lot. I don't know if some welding were performed to attach more securely both parts; mines will be soft soldered, plus the rivets.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Roger,

All I can say is Gorgeous.

But, one question.   How do you install it in the Chassis when all the other crossmembers are in place?   Chassis Stretching?

Bruce.

[veesixteen]

Roger: have you got any drawings/photos of the projected motor-chassis combination?
Just curious!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Well, Bruce, that's easy to understand: the existing cross members are just held with some screws at the side rails. The rear of the frame is wider than the front, therefore it's easy to insert the front cross member at the rear and slide it towards the front. It could not be possible (but I' not sure) if I could do that if the second cross member would be in place. When the time will come to attach permanently the cross members to the side raails, I will probably finish one side and install the other side rail over the cross members.

To Yann: for the moment, I intend to do only the frame and engine. If I sill can go furter, I will decide at that time. What I think would be nice is a roadster, if that was possible on the shorter chassis (143 inchs).

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Ah ha..... I can see it now.   I thought you had completed the crossmember attachments as you went.

Bruce.

[Roger Zimmermann]

After some vacation and at the return a lot of paperwork to settle, I could continue with the reinforcement for the first crossmember. I choose a slightly thinner brass for it; as the torsion at the frame never will be a concern!

The first pictures are showing the reinforcement alone; the last two are showing that reinforcement installed on the upper part. For the moment, 4 screws are used to assemble both parts; the screws will be replaced with rivets.

The next task is to drill the myriad holes for the rivets which are securing the first cross member to the frame.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Before I'm doing the various holes for the front support to the frame, I began the rear supports for the front springs. They will be riveted over the fist cross member; it was a part which could be replaced at that time, therefore it could not be installed between the frame and the cross member.
The first picture is from a real car; the second picture is showing the base plate for the support; the upper leg had to be bent in a precise location as it is inserted into the frame like a wedge.
This support is also the attachment point for the front brake's cable.

[Roger Zimmermann]

There were some additions made to the LH spring support: the bearing and a fin connecting the upper leg to the bearing. Some minor additions are still needed to complete the first support.
When I drilled the 4 holes at each support, I noticed later to my dismay that 3 were at the wrong place, due to a wrong reasoning! I closed the holes and drill new ones at the right place.
To continue with the positioning of the support to the frame, I had to disassemble it (once more) because I cannot drill the necessary hole from inside, the other frame rail in on the way. Then, with a lot of R & R, the holes at the frame for the support could be done.
When that LH support will be finished, I will do the same on the other side.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Both rear supports for the front springs are ready. To facilitate the future assembly of the frame, the supports are soft soldered at the first cross member. All the holes you can see on the side of the cross member are for the rivets. There will be 30 rivets for that assembly, but all will not be effectively riveted because the access at the rear of the rivets is just impossible.
I will do now the recess on the frame rails for the front brake cable; I added a picture of the real recess. I could not do it before because the relationship between the recess and the rear supports must be exact.
On the real frame, that recess is stamped. I cannot do it that way, it will be a separate element soft soldered.

[Roger Zimmermann]

First, I did the aperture in both frame rails and then a modified half cylindrical insert was soft soldered. Not a big deal, but it was needed to have functioning front brakes.
I'm going now further to the front with a small reinforcement which will be installed after the first cross member is riveted to the rails. I'm also attaching a picture from that part.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Both small reinforcements are done; thee holes for the rivets will be drilled with the rails when it will be time to assemble the whole frame which will happen soon.
I also did and soft soldered the large nuts for the front shock absorbers. Two are hidden behind the tower; they had to be attached before the assembly. The rear nuts had to be modified a bit: the rear of the tower should be more vertical. That's the kind of errors which are discovered late and cannot be corrected unless the whole sub-assembly is discarded and a new is made.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Lately, I'm trying to do on the frame rails all what I can before the definitive assembly. The holes for the engine support, steering gear and idle lever for the shock absorbers are all done; even if I don't have the precise location, those holes should be more or less at their correct place.
There is also another small part added: the bracket for the hood fastener at the front; after the assembly, it would not have been possible riveting that small part to the frame rail.

Another check at the lose parts and the assembly will begin!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The cross members # 1, # 3 and # 4 have been soft soldered on the RH side rail. The small reinforcement at the front is also soldered but the holes for the rivets not yet done. I could rivet # 1 and # 4; the rivets for the # 3 will be fake because I should do about one tool for one rivet and the chance that the outcome will be good is far from garanteed. The rivets will simply be pushed into the holes and soft soldered. The other side is hardly visible. I'm adding a picture showing most of the tools I need to rivet the cross members.
I will do now the same treatment with the LH side rail. The last cross member will be installed next.
As I stated earlier, the cross member # 2 will be done and adapted to the powertrain/frame once the engine & transmission are done.

[Roger Zimmermann]

With the exception of the #2 cross member, the frame is technically finished. Of course, there will be some holes to be drilled for various accessories. As I wrote some time ago, the location of the #2 crossmember is depending from the end of the transmission as the cross member is supporting it.
As you can see, all rivets are in place, some are just soft soldered to the frame as creating a tool specific for each rivet is a waste of resources. Initially I had 200 rivets. When the second cross member will be finished, I will have just 22 left!
If I'm comparing the frames I did for my other models, the one for the V-16 is twisting easily. Sure, when the missing crossmember will added, that tendency will be reduced. This could also be the reason why the rear of the engine has supports attached at the frame, plus the ones at the end of the transmission. Those multiple engine/transmission cushions were probably also a help to add some torsional rigidity as on the V-16, the second crossmember is located about in the middle of the frame.

What's next? I think it's now a good opportunity to begin the engine, it's will be so easy to do!

[Cadman-iac]

Roger,
  So what is the total length of your frame as it is now? Do you know how much it weighs?
That is so impressive! Wonderful job. Are you also going to make a body for it? And how long do you think it will take you to make your engine? Good luck with it. Love your work.

Rick

[Roger Zimmermann]

Rick, thanks for the comments!
The frame is 422 mm in length (16.6") and 159 g "heavy" (5.6 ounces). As explained earlier, the body is not (yet) foreseen. How long to do the engine? Just what's needed!

[Cadman-iac]

 You are most welcome Roger, and thank you for answering my questions,  I appreciate that.
I have seen some really small actually working engines before,  wouldn't it be great if you could make yours a working one? But I'm sure there's a lot more work in that than you probably want to do.
Great job, and good luck with the rest.

Rick